|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: 15012
Posts: 784
|
I know this has been discussed many times before. I would like to hear what most think is the best oil filter "by those who have used it at least two or three times, and with experience", and can suggest a winner in their opinion. If you want to refer me to a thread, that's fine also. Tis the season for a change. Thanks Zip
|
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |||
Advertisement | |||
|
|
#3 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Rocky River, Ohio
Posts: 304
|
I've used K&N filters on all my bikes for the past several years. Everything I've read says they're pretty solid and I really like the welded on bolt for removal.
If you're already at the dealership, OEM is always fine too. Only brand I don't use anymore for cars or bikes is Fram. I've read nothing but bad reviews on them. |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 (permalink) |
|
Super Moderator
|
In my order of preference . .
Oil Filters: 1. Bosch #3323 (~14psi)(3-1/4" long) (great price, great quality compared to others) 2. Yamaha #3FV-13440-10-00 (~14psi) (lesser quality than Bosch) 3. Purolator Pure One PL14610 (11~17psi) (ugly appearance needs painted black) 4. Mobile 1 #M1-110 (12~18psi) (overpriced IMO) The Warrior's internal oil pressure bypass valve opening pressure is 600kPa (85 psi) as seen on page 2-2 of the service manual. Page 2-3 of the manual indicates the stock oil filter has an 80~120 kPa (11.3 ~ 17.1 psi) bypass valve. The more outside this range an oil filter's own bypass valve acts, the greater the range is where your oil is not being filtered. For that reason, I really like the Bosch 3323 and the Yami oem. The Bosch is a much better quality construction in a lot of opinions so I stay with it. I think the #3 and #4 choices are the next-best in-a-pinch. There's a link in 'Popular Mods' under 'Oil' to one of several websites where folks have made it their mission to cut into oil filters and inspect internals, photgraph, test, and get into the nuts-and-bolts of oil filters. There could also be newer similar information on the web waiting to be googled. But these filters are my go-to list. These are the oils I use with the above filters, also in order of preference. The Amsoil filter doesn't rate as well and the bypass pressure seems to be a mystery. Wet-Clutch Motor Oil: 1. Amsoil 20W50 MCV Full Synthetic 2. Yamalube4 10W40 or 20W50 3. Mobil 1 20W50 V-Twin Full Syntetic
__________________
![]() My Pics Great Members Popular Mods Model Year Differences Group Rides WyomingDIY KyleNV Technical Last edited by arizonawarrior; 11-10-2012 at 02:56 AM. Reason: update |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: 15012
Posts: 784
|
I have been using the Purolator PureOne PL14612. From all I've read it's a good safe filter with a little bit more filter volume. IMO size does matter here and would use an Amsoil filter if it had a larger filter media. I do use their oil and would also use Royal Purple. If you do regular scheduled changes, any of the better stuff on the market will work fine in the long run. The maintenance intervals are the most critical part. Done right and often enough means a lot more than the label. A friend of mine uses non-synthetic Yamalube with Yam filter on his Road Star with 70,000 miles on it. He works at a Yamaha Garage and won't use anything else. He always changes at around 25-2600 miles. You can't talk him into anything else. He was a wrench for 17 yrs. Later
|
|
|
|
|
|
#7 (permalink) |
|
Super Moderator
|
I agree its a good quality but why-oh-why did they have to make it yellow lol.
The PL14612 is ~3" long Part Detail Popup The PL14610 is 3.25" long (I see the updated info says 3.52" long but I don't recall that being the case) Part Detail Popup My only gripe with Yamalube4 is that a lot of guys report it likes to foam-up under hard use on hot days. It hasn't been a noticable problem here in Oregon, and I didn't notice it in Arizona but I bet it foamed there and I just didn't see it. I didn't read the reports until after relocating. This foaming thing might be a condition specific to the Warrior (or bikes with semi-dry-sump systems) dunno. Since learning of the condition, I've paid attention and haven't seen foaming in my VStar 1100, but I don't push that bike very hard. Its a different animal. I haven't used Yamalube4 in any of the other bikes. With the Amsoil, I notice the engine and transmission noises are quieter. Even quieter than with Mobil1. Not sure what that means but I do notice it. Plus it runs a little longer before needing to be changed. And its no trouble to bounce between Amsoil, Yamalube4, and Mobil1 because I change the oil filter every oil change.
__________________
![]() My Pics Great Members Popular Mods Model Year Differences Group Rides WyomingDIY KyleNV Technical Last edited by arizonawarrior; 03-17-2011 at 11:37 AM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#10 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Griffin, GA
Posts: 2,558
|
This time around i went to Wally World and bought a super tech filter for under $3.00 and Castrol GTX 20/50 for under $13.00 for 5 quarts. Oil changed for about $15. I got tired of paying about $60 for synthetic and yammi filters. Will change oil and filter about every 3k miles. Bike runs just as good as it did with the synthetic oil.
Last edited by 06_warrior; 03-17-2011 at 12:18 PM. |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement | |
![]() |
|
| Thread Tools | |
|
|