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Bak. Sensor, horn, and rectifier relocation.

8.9K views 18 replies 13 participants last post by  OZZMAN8  
#1 ·
Did the Bak, and sensor relocation. Then i took my now nonfunctional air intake and stuffed the horn and rectifier in it.

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#12 ·
OldMan said:
See guys, it hasn't all be done yet. Nice job!!
That's very true OldMan....

That's the perfect place to hide the rectifier - will definately stay cool enough - as it's getting really good airflow in that position.


Wiring looks tidy too!

Great idea!
 
#15 ·
Not really, one's inhale and ones exhale :D
The crank breather may oil/choke up your LCV.
 
#17 ·
I don't know if it's cool to chime in after so long but I'm really curious what the part number on your K&Ns you used for this BAK are? Did they bolt right on or is there rubber tubing in between?

Also I had an 02 R6 (that are well known for recharge system problems) and I had to put in a new stator and voltage regulator. The original one looked normal except that the back of it, (it's kind of glossy and smooth, no fins) was cracked. I'm sure this is a result of an overheat. This same surface is on the one on our bikes. I learned the hard way, I bought an aftermarket regulator (pooped out on first ride), then I replaced all the wiring and put in the OEM (expensive) one. I'm sure his will get enough air in the air cleaner box.... the one for the R6 was under the seat by the rear shock attached to the battery box. From what I learned through my process it is best to have the regulator attached to a metal surface....this way heat can transfer through and dissipate. A lot of those guys attached theirs with the back to the frame so the heat could transfer into the frame (the battery box it was mounted to was plastic)
 
#18 ·
I don't know if it's cool to chime in after so long but I'm really curious what the part number on your K&Ns you used for this BAK are? Did they bolt right on or is there rubber tubing in between?

Also I had an 02 R6 (that are well known for recharge system problems) and I had to put in a new stator and voltage regulator. The original one looked normal except that the back of it, (it's kind of glossy and smooth, no fins) was cracked. I'm sure this is a result of an overheat. This same surface is on the one on our bikes. I learned the hard way, I bought an aftermarket regulator (pooped out on first ride), then I replaced all the wiring and put in the OEM (expensive) one. I'm sure his will get enough air in the air cleaner box.... the one for the R6 was under the seat by the rear shock attached to the battery box. From what I learned through my process it is best to have the regulator attached to a metal surface....this way heat can transfer through and dissipate. A lot of those guys attached theirs with the back to the frame so the heat could transfer into the frame (the battery box it was mounted to was plastic)
that may be a good bit of info to know. I have the SS intake on mine and once I am able to do a BAK, I want to keep it on the bike (I like the look of it), and use it for something else. Maybe storage or who knows. But since I also like the scoop on the left side, and there's already a metal bracket there, maybe hiding the rectifier inside the scoop is doable?