Well the weekend started ok, just doing some routine maintenance like oil change, airfilter clean and general check over. Then when I started the bike the same thing happened again as a few weeks ago. LCV got jammed on and no amount of reving it or tapping the little ******* would solve the problem. I have had an intemitant fault on it for awhile now and this time I just got the sh*ts. Planned on unplugging it as one of the boys down here suggested but made no difference so I removed it completely. Wasn't happy with having to hold the throttle while it goes through warmup so wired in a small electric solenoid valve to a switch so as to bleed air in on start up and then switch off once the revs come up. The valve is a little to small as it only allows 1cc @4psi flow and manages to raise the RPMs about 200rpm. A bigger valve would be better and then restrict the flow to acheive the correct rpms. But saying that it works ok and makes cold starting a dream. The switch is lit so will remind me to deactivate it before taking off. I have only done a rough install presently but will post some photos in the next few days after testing. Hope this is of interest for you guys that have removed your LCV's and get sick of waiting for it to idle.
That is a cool idea, you are a pioneer! I'm also real interested in pics of what you end up using long-term (bigger valve etc) including your switch solution, and maybe part numbers for them!
Well the weekend started ok, just doing some routine maintenance like oil change, airfilter clean and general check over. Then when I started the bike the same thing happened again as a few weeks ago. LCV got jammed on and no amount of reving it or tapping the little ******* would solve the problem. I have had an intemitant fault on it for awhile now and this time I just got the sh*ts. Planned on unplugging it as one of the boys down here suggested but made no difference so I removed it completely. Wasn't happy with having to hold the throttle while it goes through warmup so wired in a small electric solenoid valve to a switch so as to bleed air in on start up and then switch off once the revs come up. The valve is a little to small as it only allows 1cc @4psi flow and manages to raise the RPMs about 200rpm. A bigger valve would be better and then restrict the flow to acheive the correct rpms. But saying that it works ok and makes cold starting a dream. The switch is lit so will remind me to deactivate it before taking off. I have only done a rough install presently but will post some photos in the next few days after testing. Hope this is of interest for you guys that have removed your LCV's and get sick of waiting for it to idle.
Uh, how cold are we talking about here that it won't idle on its own? I've never had a problem down to 55 degrees. Twist throttle slightly, start bike, hold for 5-10 seconds and walk away while I put on gear, return to ride warm bike. Never have had a problem in two years of doing it this way.
Regardless, I am interested to see some pics of what you came up with. It is a pretty cool thought to come up with for sure.
Good Idea, I had considered installing a manual bleed valve so I could adjust the cold idle speed if it needed it. Yours solution is more elegant. With my hot idle speed at 1K RPM's I have not needed to do this. Bike will idle slow when cold, but will stay running to warm up.
Thanks guys,
Been working up north and haven't had time to take some pic's. Will send some today or after the ride this weekend. It's pretty simple really just a manual bleed valve but works like majic. I will dig out part numbers and post those too. FYI new Avitar coming soon ( hope shes pretty like the last one)
This is great, thanks. As you suggested, I'll look for a slightly larger volume unit, and maybe add a micro air filter of some sort. My LCV is working now, but we all know that won't last forever lol. I appreciate the information.
Nice mod.....I recently mounted a switch behind the rear jug. I wanted to see if it would get too hot. It seems to be fine and could be a nice way to rid yourself of the wires and external bracket.
The switch is mounted on the plastic portion of the side cover so drilling a hole was easy (I used a step bit). My switch sticks a good inch inside with no interference with the aux tank and/or hoses.
Thanks for posting this. I have also removed my lcv and think this could help during the winter....(well it is the bay area, so we really don't get too cold but help none the less.....)
Heff ... it's difficult to see the revised plumbing (hoses & fittings) but it looks like you have the front & rear throttle bodies connected to a common tee that branches to the normally closed solenoid valve???
The factory LCV isolates the throttle bodies (TB's) to prevent feedback during the enrichment cycle.
Can you elaborate on your modification as cross connecting the TB's is not recommended.
You are correct Alan I have used a T piece that joins both throttle vaccum tubes and plumbed direct to bleed valve. Because it was a quick fix at the moment I only used the one valve. To do it right I think a second small valve would be better and plumb them seperately but switch them together. For the small time it is on I'm not worried at the moment as it was to prove it would work first. Thanks everyone for your thoughts and support on this as it seems a few people have had the same issues.
Heff
Thanks Alan, I decided that I would spend the time this afternoon and try the second solenoid valve on the seperated throttle vacuum lines. They switch together and because only one line to each valve the rev's have increased a little better, around 300 rev's between switched off and on.
Major success now I can permanently pipe it in.
Hi Guys,
A bit of an update on this mod. The original valves I used where from Jaycar Electronics and were cheap as ****. They worked but not enough air passed through them. I changed these out last night and went with two 2 port valves #N501 (AD-6A-N-12VDC 2/2way 1/8BSP) $15 bucks each. Piped it in and tidied it all up. Still need silencers but you can see from the pictures it looks better. Works a treat and decided to leave the switch were it is for now. Hope this helps anyone looking at doing this. Any valve supplier can fix you up as long as you state the valve sequence shown in the brackets ( ).
Was wondering why you would'nt just get a new LCV untill i checked the price anywhere from $310 to $230 hope mine never goes bad but if it does i'm going this route. Thanks Heff
Yeah 60ft,
Down under they want $540 and they can you **** themselves. All said and done it is a bypass valve that lets extra air in on start up, the rest of the time its closed. In summer down here you don't even need it.
Heff
Bit of an update on this mod,
Been using it most days since the larger valves have been installed. So much easier and quieter than the LCV. Just hit the switch before start-up and while putting the helmet on it has already picked up enough revs to switch off again. No more revving at the lights if it sticks, and no more loud sucking sound like 20 Japanese school students eating noodles for lunch. Very happy with the mod and would highly recommend to anyone.
Heff
it kills me when i see you guys say "all i did was.." you figured out how to do something that NOBODY else can do. but, "hey man, all i did was...".
great job. really.
PS, love the "eating noodles" reference.
Thats why I love this forum. I have learnt so much stuff about my bike on here and all the good input from fellow members. This time I guess it was my turn to give something back that I understood how to do. Your time will come grasshopper.
Heff
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