Left side engine bracket

[Big Daddy]

WTF! I knew I should have taken the tank off and had a better look. I would have seen that clearly. I was rushing and obviously not thinking at all!

Man that was stupid! Now I have to weld it back on. MF'r! I gotta go walk this one off.


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[gilly]

You probably should bolt everything back up like it goes then tack weld it in several places so it does not move or warp out of shape when you take it off of the bike to weld it up. Make sure you put your ground right on the mount as close to the weld as you can when tacking it up. Disconnect your battery and unplug your ECU first thing before tack welding. Now before you do all of these things ask someone that knows for sure if you do all of these things that it will not fry anything electrical when welding on your bike.

[LeaderDuece]

Someone would probably give you one if you asked. -Anybody that has done a left side clean-up has their old one laying around...

[Big Daddy]

Originally Posted by jimmy2

Yup. You cut the most important part off. The part that goes to the upper frame rail.

This is how I shaved mine

Did your shaved version end up giving you enough of the structural support you need? I would like to follow your lead here.


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[madtom421]

What was the point in even shaving the bracket if you're still using the stock drybreak? Should of just left it bolted on instead of ziptieing it. most people relocate the fpr and replace the drybreak before shaving the mount.

[LeaderDuece]

It does kind of stick out, doesn't it Tom?

[madtom421]

Originally Posted by LeaderDuece

It does kind of stick out, doesn't it Tom?

Does the stock drybreak really tuck in any once you unbolt it? It's been awhile since I had a stock drybreak.

[Big Daddy]

Originally Posted by gilly

You probably should bolt everything back up like it goes then tack weld it in several places so it does not move or warp out of shape when you take it off of the bike to weld it up. Make sure you put your ground right on the mount as close to the weld as you can when tacking it up. Disconnect your battery and unplug your ECU first thing before tack welding. Now before you do all of these things ask someone that knows for sure if you do all of these things that it will not fry anything electrical when welding on your bike.

This is what I started to do. I have the bike torn down and the parts bolted up to tack tomorrow. I've tacked things up before without disconnecting anything with no problems yet. But I seem to be on a roll getting myself in trouble lately. I will take the precautions you recommend and not press my luck. I guess disconnecting my ECU will isolate my PCIII as well.

Thanks for everyone's advice.

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[Big Daddy]

Originally Posted by madtom421

What was the point in even shaving the bracket if you're still using the stock drybreak? Should of just left it bolted on instead of ziptieing it. most people relocate the fpr and replace the drybreak before shaving the mount.

I do plan on relocating the FPR and installing a new drybreak. I've seen the nice work you guys have done.

The only reason why I zip tied it up after the VBAK install was so I could keep riding it between mods and improvements.

I'm not embarrassed about riding a work in progress. I love riding too much. I feel more like a fool for riding without the bracket for as long as I did - and then chopping the sh!t out of it to boot.

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[madtom421]

I have a bracket I could send you if you want to start over. Ct to NJ would only take a couple days to ship to you. The drybreak tab has already been cut off it.