Please help. I have problem with motorcycle.

[RDV]

Guys, hello.

Help me please.
I have a problem with a motorcycle.

If a working motorcycle to muffle to (switch off) the red button, and then to switch off ignition (to turn a key - in the switched-off situation) that starts to crack a decompressor to crack loudly....

If a working motorcycle to muffle to (switch off) the red button, and then it to return about normal situation - and then to switch off ignition - a decompressor doesn't crack.

it (decompressor) cracks only then if - a motorcycle to switch off the red button and after that to switch off ignition and to pull out a key from a motorcycle.

Prompt to me please in what there can be a problem?
and why the decompressor cracks?
and how it is connected with the red button?

Big to you thanks.
I hope you me will understand.

Yours faithfully Dmitry, Russia, Moscow.

[rquest]

Someone has termed that sound the "click of death." I'm guessing you removed your blinkers or installed LED's. There are a few things you can do to remedy this problem. Do a search for "click of death"

Nice to hear from you.

[gilly]

If you switch the bike off using the key instead of the kill switch this should stop your problem if you switched to LED's. It does sound like the click of death problem. Do a search on the click of death Dima and you will understand the problem more.

[RDV]

Yes, I established rotary signals and a back stoplight - LED's and it appeared....

If I don't use the red button and I will go switching off a motorcycle a key.
this click won't be.

It will be possible to go so, or it is necessary to solve a problem?


Dmitry Russia

[californiacruiser]

Not necessary to solve Dmitry, will work fine using just the key.

[joeyalessi]

I've never had the click of death but then again I always shut the bike off with the key. From what I understand it happens after a rear tail light LED upgrade and using the kill switch....but why? Why does that matter?.....confused.

[SiRaDuDe]

As stated above,

Do not use the Kill switch (red Button) to turn off bike.
Only use key to turn off bike.
It's not needed to fix this problem, bike will run fine as is.

The reason why this is happening is that you installed LEDs for rear brake or other lights.

This can be fixed, but not necessary.

If you want to fix, let us know, we can try to explain, not too complicated but some might get lost in translation!

[Lazyone]

^+1

I put the bike in neutral and then turn it off with the key.

[arizonawarrior]

Dmitry:

I have no way to translate this, sorry.

The stock front turn signals and running lights share a housing in the form of a two-filament bulb. The turn signal filament is on the Signal circuit. The running light filament is on the separate Headlight circuit. The RUNNING light circuit is responsible for COD (Click of Death).

About Click-of-Death
If you have removed the incandescent front running lights (one filament in the front bulbs) and also removed the incandescent license plate light, you will develop Click-of-Death (COD). You'll need to add a resistance back into that light-blue wire in the headlight bucket (or same wire under the seat) then to ground (black wire same spot or frame ground) to bleed-off residual ECU energy on shut-down. One good solution is to install a Song Chuan 896H mini-relay (see below) into the light-blue wire that feeds the stock front running lights (and license plate light). These can be connected in either direction but just for consistency go ahead and connect the blue wire to contact 85 and the black wire to contact 86. Only the coil-side of this relay is used, the relay side is taped-over to avoid abrading nearby items. The coil inside this relay is designed for millions of cycles and will mimic the missing light bulb filament without transferring heat into nearby wiring or components. It will fit in the headlight bucket but its tight. It will also fit under the rider seat in the relay well, or under the rear fender in some cases. Note that if you use a cheap resistance here and it later fails, you'll unexpectedly find yourself with COD again so use a good quality relay or resistor.

So COD results from removing both front running light filaments (i.e. removing both front two-filament running/signal light bulbs) and also removing the incandescent license plate bulb. It has nothing to do with the signals except the filament happens to share the front light bulb.

To recap: to solve COD, add a small incandescent filament-type bulb or equal resistor to the light blue wire inside the headlight bucket (or same wire under the rider seat but verify its the light blue wire that feeds the RUNNING lights and license plate light).

You can also use the coil-side of a small relay which acts like a bulb filament for this purpose. Here's two good quality relays:
Song Chuan 896H-1CH-C-001-12VDC 30/50 relay (flux tight)
Song Chuan 896H-1CH-S-001-12VDC 30/50 relay (water sealed)

Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by RDV

Guys, hello.

Help me please.
I have a problem with a motorcycle.

If a working motorcycle to muffle to (switch off) the red button, and then to switch off ignition (to turn a key - in the switched-off situation) that starts to crack a decompressor to crack loudly....

If a working motorcycle to muffle to (switch off) the red button, and then it to return about normal situation - and then to switch off ignition - a decompressor doesn't crack.

it (decompressor) cracks only then if - a motorcycle to switch off the red button and after that to switch off ignition and to pull out a key from a motorcycle.

Prompt to me please in what there can be a problem?
and why the decompressor cracks?
and how it is connected with the red button?

Big to you thanks.
I hope you me will understand.

Yours faithfully Dmitry, Russia, Moscow.

[christok]

Hey Dima
I will send a Radiantz load resistor to Parkinglot to put into the box with your seat. You can wire this into your system and it should eliminate the cllick of death. In the mean time just use your key to turn off the motorcycle like suggested.