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Old 05-31-2012, 12:12 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cajunwarrior View Post
well when the bike first started having problems i thought fuel issue,,,so i had drained all the fuel out,changed all four plugs ,
Yeah, but now you have 1 year old fuel as an obstacle to finding your truth.
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Old 05-31-2012, 12:16 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Here is a good blowup view of most of the vaccum lines.



Remember since you have done an AIS removal, #38 should have a plug on it.

The electric harness for both sensors #55 is IDENTICAL and can be switched accidentally, and will give problems if switched. ( i think they can be identified by one connector being grey and the other black but cant remember)
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Old 05-31-2012, 12:26 AM   #63 (permalink)
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ya i plan to drain the gas AGAIN,,,remove the PC,,,i will remove the lcv ,,i pray that works
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Old 05-31-2012, 12:35 AM   #64 (permalink)
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ya i plan to drain the gas AGAIN,,,remove the PC,,,i will remove the lcv ,,i pray that works
No need to remov the LCV, unless you really want to, I did a while back.
If you do just make sure you plug the 2 Vacuum ports on the Throttle body.

Look it up if you decide to go this route.
For me it was just another thing that could cause problems, so I janked it out.
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Old 05-31-2012, 12:44 AM   #65 (permalink)
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In normal state the LAS passes ~1v to the ECU so the ECU knows its connected and working. In overturn state the LAS passes ~4v to the ECU and in reply the ECU shuts down the fuel system etc. So if you bypass the LAS then the full 5-volt sensor signal goes to the ECU and that communicates an 'overturn' which forces shutdown.

Just as an aside, its been suggested that a 5v signal at ECU Pin #41 might do damage but I've never taken time to dig into it. The additional ~1v seems like it would be tolerated. The ECU is known to have 12v circuits and 5v circuits, there's no indicator one circuit is limited to 4v, and there's no reason a 4v signal would not like a 5v circuit so no reason to size one circuit 4v and plenty of reasons to not. Anyway, I'm guessing the 5v sensor signal reaching ECU Pin #41 won't do any harm but remember: the bike won't run.

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Can't you just bypass the LAS? That would be quick -free- way to eliminate that possibility.

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Old 05-31-2012, 01:19 AM   #66 (permalink)
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Cajun,

IMO here's where you can start. Your Power Commander is the early USB model and it connects to the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) with a red crimp connector, as seen in your pic below, look just under the teardrop side cover. That crimp connection to the TPS Yellow wire is known to corrode and its also known to interrupt the TPS signal in certain circumstances. Right now, the TPS signal is probably being interrupted so the ECU doesn't know the throttle's position and its playing catch-up and that's why its performing like it is. This is partly due to lack of perfect install, and very likely also partly due to the crimp connector damage.

You need to (1) perform the PCiii Perfect Install (or pay power commander to update your PCiiiUSB with a TPS Plug so its fully plug-and-play) and after that you also need to (2) carefully remove the red crimp connector without further damaging the Yellow TPS wire (it took me over half-an-hour using two mini-flat-blade screwdrivers and two mini-needle-nose pliers). Once the red crimp connector is removed, inspect the Yellow TPS wire to be sure the copper wire strands are okay, then apply a little 'bulb grease' to the copper strands and heal the wire's insulation using good quality automotive electrical tape. Don't go thicker than ~2 wraps because you want that Yellow TPS wire to remain flexible.

After the Perfect Install is completed and the Yellow TPS wire is healed, then you need to reset the engine's fully-warm idle to 850~950rpm (I set it so the idle never drops below 850rpm even if it exceeds 950rpm). The PC3USB software displays rpm on-screen and can be real handy for this. Remember to 'blip' the throttle a little between every adjustment then wait a few seconds for the idle to stabilize again before the next rpm screw adjustment.

After that's done, clean the air filters so it can breathe.

Now, finally, get the bike warm then shut the key off. Then connect your computer (laptop is easiest) direct to the PC3USB and bring up the PC3USB software. Then start the bike. The computer might get the map automatically, or you might have to tell it to GET the map. In advance, read the instructions to RESET the Zero% (0%) idle to zero. The instructions are posted here in the Library, but they are also on your computer inside the HELP menu in the PC3USB software.

After you have reset 0% you are done. If you mess-up and accidently reset the 100% throttle too, then you have to start over and reset BOTH 0% and 100%. So pay attention!

After that, use the set-up-for-tuning guide to prep your bike. Many of the steps will by then already be done.

After that, let the bike go completely cold for several hours, then start it. If the LCV is working then the bike should momentarily idle high and should then reduce idle to where you set it before (850~950rpm). If the LCV is not working don't automatically remove it, let me know first and we can identify what's happening before you make that decision.

----

Wanna know why this is what need doing? The dynotuner can't get a solid set of numbers because the Perfect Install has not been performed, and because the TPS is having fits over the stupid crimp connector. All the while people have been trying to repair phantom problems that are masking the conditions. The confusion left the bike's basic set-up in tatters. My guess is that where it is right now, its near useless to troubleshoot. And it will get expensive real quick shotgunning repair parts. So do these steps then lemme know.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by cajunwarrior View Post
been awhile since i have been on here since by bike has been in the shop for a year,still isnt right and nobody can figure out whats wrong,,still dies out when i stop at a redlight ,,,,sputters when i am cruising on the road or when i take off,,,,really getting tired of it,,any ideas ????????or does anybody want this thing cause i just dont know what to do anymore
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i brought it to another guy who put it on a dyno and was trying to remap it but he would get it mapped right then the next pull it would be off,,,the dealership couldnt OR DIDNT WANT to fix it,,,and the other guy couldnt figure it out

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Old 05-31-2012, 09:29 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:03 PM   #68 (permalink)
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been gone out of country for awhile,now i am trying again to fix the warrior ,and honestly i am giving up,,,,,,i dunno anmore what to do ,to this piont i really dont want to see it anymore,,,if someone knows whats wrong make me a offer
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:16 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Hmmm giving up that easy... must be American

It sounds to me that you have eliminated the PC3... I would get rid of the crimp connectors though, they are nothing but trouble.

We had a nice problem here, and it took several of us 5 hours to figure out what wast wrong. It did not show up in the ECU fault history, but did cause to run the bike almost on 1 leg. It was the 5V connection to one of the pressure/vacuum sensors (in our case the front cylinder sensor. As this sensor is normally mounted right front just under the tank, it will cop a lot of water and has the tendency to corrode (any of the three pins of the sensor) . Loosing this sensor (or rear sensor) make's the bike cough and splutter, almost to the point of stall....

I am going to replace one of the connectors next week as the cleaning did not work (cleaning spray and dielectric grease). I am not saying this is your problem, but it can be

The way I started testing was resistance from each point of the ecu to the end point ( especially the 5V feed wires as they have many crimps in them, and they can break down under load due to corrosion) Just food for thought...


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Old 11-11-2012, 07:09 AM   #70 (permalink)
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I am going to go with an electrical issue on this, if it is not a component it may be in the harness. worked on an 02 years back that had a similar issue and it ended up being the CPS harness, Yamaha has had a recall on the CPS on your year and it is possible to pinch the harness if not careful, from what i have read in this thread it sounds like your mechanic is less than not careful. That is where I would go with it. its possible the PCIII has crapped as well, do you have a buddy with one you might be able to swap in? if those check out I would be for digging into the harness looking for pinch points. If you really want to get rid of it let me know
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