about to give up

[SiRaDuDe]

Now that the crimp connector has been shown/pointed out...

You should re-read ArizonaWArrior post #66 and follow his instructions...

[cajunwarrior]

i am caught on what arizona warrior told me to do cause i dont have a laptop and i didnt have any sucess with power comander when i did have my lap top,i could never get the down load correct or work right, i am looking at the connector right now it doesnt look bad ,i am gonna take it all aprt and redo it to see if that helps

[Caledonian Warrior]

Originally Posted by scawein

one of those crimp pieces of crap. If that is true, look at your wire that it was crimped to.
If that crimp piece of crap is not used properly it all but cuts your wire in half. Once removed (and even while installed) it can give intermittent problems. Especially once the crimp piece of crap is removed....
Almost sounds like that to me.....did I mention those crimp things are pieces of crap?....lmao

Haha.....just as scawein said

Originally Posted by cajunwarrior

i am looking at the connector right now it doesnt look bad ,i am gonna take it all aprt and redo it to see if that helps

cajun, that "crimp piece of crap" isn't there for looks, it's there to destroy a good signal to your ECU/TPS.

Gav.

Oh and good luck.

[LeaderDuece]

Redoing a piece of crap just results in prettier crap. REMOVE IT and solder everything. Even if it's just a piece if wire, solder it to restrengthen the wire.

[warpig]

The point everyone is trying to make is, those type of connectors (whether they are T-Tap or Scotch lock) are not only notorious for causing bad connections for themselves but also inside the wire they are installed on. Before you can test the bike without the PC3 this connector needs to be removed and the wire repaired. Problems like this are why they changed the PC3 to include the propper connector.

I run a shop that specializes in the electronic end of public safety. I refuse to let my guys use these for just such reasons!

[arizonawarrior]

Don't just re-do it. Use the 'Perfect Install' method instead, and 'heal' the TPS wire where the crimp connector is removed.

If you don't have a laptop to check RPM's when setting WARM idle to 850~950 rpm then no worries, instead use your bike's Tachometer, it will work fine it just takes a few minutes longer.

If I am understanding you, you are saying that you were never able to up load a map file from your computer to your Power Commander, and possibly that you were also never able to GET the map that exists on the Power Commander onto your computer hard drive. So is it also the case that you have never seen the map file's contents? Also, how do you know there is a valid map on your Power Commander? You need to 'heal' the TPS wire no matter what but before doing the 'Perfect Install' you need to get the map off your Power Commander and save it to your hard drive, then rename it, then see if you can upload it back onto your Power Commander from your computer. If the Power Commander is no good then why re-install it.

Originally Posted by cajunwarrior

i am caught on what arizona warrior told me to do cause i dont have a laptop and i didnt have any sucess with power comander when i did have my lap top,i could never get the down load correct or work right, i am looking at the connector right now it doesnt look bad ,i am gonna take it all aprt and redo it to see if that helps

[rf_wiz]

JUst for shits and giggles since you seem to have tried everything, does your neutral light come on when the bike runs like crap ? Does shifting make it better for a bit ? Check your neutral switch cover, it may be grounding out your switch as it gets hot and expands. Had the same symptoms and it drove me nuts for a while until I noticed the neutral light coming on. Don't ask me what it has to do with the bike hesitating and sputtering as I cannot answer that part.

[mr_noize2]

Any updates?

[rquest]

Originally Posted by cajunwarrior

change the wires just the spark plug ends,

I'll guarantee you this is the problem. Someone on this site probably has a set of stock coils and wires. Buy them and enjoy.

[jarv]

Heads - walls - banging.

This seems to be going nowhere.

Cajun, have you done any of the PC3 work that AZ listed?
Have you replaced/repared the TPS connection?

If not (because you are unable to or don't have a laptop, or whatever), you need to either:

a) Find someone who can help you out.

b) Sell it!




You said the bike was in the shop for a year.
Did THEY have it for a year, or did you go overseas and LEAVE it there for a year?
There IS a difference.
Did they work on it for a week - then leave it parked in the yard for the other 11 months?
Looking at the rust on the air filters and the other crap all over it, I would say YES!

You have asked for help and have been given suggestions (none of which may work of course..),
BUT - unless YOU knuckle down and do these nitty gritty repairs, the process of elimination can't work.
There is no shame in not being able to do these checks - we are not all bike techs are we!
I also appreciate how difficult it is to translate all the info on here into "real life" if you don't really know what you're looking at.
Finding these kind of problems is a real task - but if you can whittle away at one small check at a time you WILL get there.
I too have no equipment for checking the fuel pressure etc etc ...
so if it was me, I'd work through the OTHER items on the list untill the fuel is the last problem.

Start from scratch.
Clean the bike properly. Clean the air filters properly. put new fuel in the bike.
Go through the list one thing at a time.
You need to be able know confidently what is NOT the problem - and eventually it will work out.

As I said earlier - and I mean this with respect, if you can't do this, then take it to someone who can - or sell it.