Last chance before i have to pay shop time!

[Benton87]

Alright guys, here is the problem. This has been an ongoing thing for almost a year now. Last chance before i just finally give in and have to pay someone to work on my bike.

This all started last summer, bike will start and idle just fine. With the bike being warmed up, as soon as i get down the road i pull the clutch in and rpms bottom out and the bike stalls. Clock is reset and trip also. After flushing all gas, and adjusting idle, same thing kept happening. Then when turning around back to the house, the bike would start to shut on and off suddenly, power then no power, gas then no gas.
All this happening at low speeds. under 40mph

This led be to believe i had a battery problem. This was in September (warm weather) 2011. That month i had battery checked and there was a dead cell. Bingo problem solved, put over a thousand miles on it, even had the wife on the back for a 200 mile cancer sucks rally. Not one problem with new battery.

Suddenly a month ago, problem started again. Took new batter and had it checked, no problems with the battery.

Help please! I would imagine its electrical since the gauges are resetting?

[btk572]

loose connection somewhere/dirty connection?, btk572

[arizonawarrior]

What year is your bike, how many miles, and what mods?

When then 'clock' and 'trip' reset do all the gauges go blank and then initialize again (the tach sweeps etc)? If yes then the gauges resetting is an indicator of momentary loss of power, and since its a year-old battery assuming its been ridden regularly or floater-charged when stored, lets assume for now the battery is still okay. The next step is to be sure BOTH ends of the POS and NEG cables are tight and clean, including the starter relay connections after the POS cable. If not ridden often, or if not floater-charged, its possible the battery tests good but is marginal: did the shop 'load' test the battery or simply check voltage? And does the battery always start the bike warm or cold in a couple cranks?

If the entire gauges do not reset but only the 'clock' and 'trip reset, then its weird but we can look at the Lean Angle Sensor only because it shuts-off the fuel delivery. Also, the clock and odometer share a power fuse so that wire could be having some trouble or the voltage may be dropping below what's needed to float them (a possible charging issue). I've read posts suggesting possible causes but haven't read for sure a solution so I won't go there.

The bike stalling in that way is possibly a different problem, is your warm idle set to 850~950rpm? And when you first start your bike when cold does it idle higher for a few seconds and then reduce idle to 850~950rpm? Don't reset your idle until we know the answer to both these questions in this paragraph!

[Mike7202]

Originally Posted by arizonawarrior

What year is your bike, how many miles, and what mods?

When then 'clock' and 'trip' reset do all the gauges go blank and then initialize again (the tach sweeps etc)? If yes then the gauges resetting is an indicator of momentary loss of power, and since its a year-old battery assuming its been ridden regularly or floater-charged when stored, lets assume for now the battery is still okay. The next step is to be sure BOTH ends of the POS and NEG cables are tight and clean, including the starter relay connections after the POS cable. If not ridden often, or if not floater-charged, its possible the battery tests good but is marginal: did the shop 'load' test the battery or simply check voltage? And does the battery always start the bike warm or cold in a couple cranks?

If the entire gauges do not reset but only the 'clock' and 'trip reset, then its weird but we can look at the Lean Angle Sensor only because it shuts-off the fuel delivery. Also, the clock and odometer share a power fuse so that wire could be having some trouble or the voltage may be dropping below what's needed to float them (a possible charging issue). I've read posts suggesting possible causes but haven't read for sure a solution so I won't go there.

The bike stalling in that way is possibly a different problem, is your warm idle set to 850~950rpm? And when you first start your bike when cold does it idle higher for a few seconds and then reduce idle to 850~950rpm? Don't reset your idle until we know the answer to both these questions in this paragraph!

what he said^^^ if that doesnt fix it I will be closely following to see what the problem ended up being

[washingtonwarrior]

and it sure wouldn't take long to check the wires to the kickstand, ignition switch and kill switch. Especially if anything has been changed

[Benton87]

Its a 2002 Warrior with 11,000 miles. Aftermarket bubs exhaust with baffles, risers, and other than that its pretty stock.

All the gauges reset, speedometer and everything, tach sweeps, only the total mileage listed on bike is not effected. I have checked the wiring around the kill switches and everything to the handlebars after putting the risers on. This problem also happened before and after the risers went on.

Bike cranks to start good when cold and hot, cold starts around 1100 rpm and packs down somewhere around 900 after warm.

The battery was load tested.

Keep the ideas coming, im making a list for Sunday chores in the garage.

[Mike7202]

I know its already been said but man that really sounds like a loose battery cable. several people have had almost the exact same sypmtoms and it turnd out to be the neg batt cable at the ground not at the battery

[Benton87]

Thanks, i hope its something that simple! Ill keep you all posted!
Got to love the Warrior comradery

[scawein]

Check the (+) cable going to the starter. They are known to come loose. It should not cause the gauges to reset, but.......

[alanh]

Originally Posted by Benton87

Alright guys, here is the problem. This has been an ongoing thing for almost a year now. Last chance before i just finally give in and have to pay someone to work on my bike.

This all started last summer, bike will start and idle just fine. With the bike being warmed up, as soon as i get down the road i pull the clutch in and rpms bottom out and the bike stalls. Clock is reset and trip also. After flushing all gas, and adjusting idle, same thing kept happening. Then when turning around back to the house, the bike would start to shut on and off suddenly, power then no power, gas then no gas.
All this happening at low speeds. under 40mph

This led be to believe i had a battery problem. This was in September (warm weather) 2011. That month i had battery checked and there was a dead cell. Bingo problem solved, put over a thousand miles on it, even had the wife on the back for a 200 mile cancer sucks rally. Not one problem with new battery.

Suddenly a month ago, problem started again. Took new batter and had it checked, no problems with the battery.

Help please! I would imagine its electrical since the gauges are resetting?

My .02 & opinion follows:
Based on your OP and described symptoms the root cause of the intermittent failure is a complete loss of 12vdc power and nothing at all to do with sensors, switches or interlocks.
I would suggest checking the heavy gauge wiring and connectors for the alternator & regulator back to the battery including the main fuse wiring and the main and secondary ground condutors for the solution.

Good Luck