Experienced an unrequested electrical "reset"

[LeaderDuece]

At this point you'll have to ask an electrical expert. Sorry...

[jimsnorton]

Looking at the stator on the microfiche @ 2002 Yamaha XV17PCPC Electrical 1 | Yamaha Sports Plaza
it looks like the windings come out via a cable & connector. I guess I need to find that connector. I don't want to have to pull my exhaust. I'm pretty sure it's not my new HID, since I had that "gremlin" visit me before I installed my light. So, can it be that I'm starting to 'experience' actual component failures, after 104k miles. Still nothing mechanical, which is remarkable IMO. 'Specially after riding a Norton for 30 years prior to this amazing machine.

[jimsnorton]

So on top of all I have going on, my laptop took a crap last night. So now while I'm working on my Warrior I won't have any 4m ability...

[jimsnorton]

Last nite I gave it another look-see. I disconnected my HID, & wound it up & checked the voltage to my battery. It was 12.4v and never moved even when I wound it up to about 4000rpm. It was late so I only did it twice. I didn't get all the way to 5k rpm. That is what I read in the manual to check the charging circuit! It didn't drop to 9v like it did with the HID plugged in. I'll perform that operation again this weekend, with the HID plugged in & see if that 9v observation reoccurs. It looks like you would have to take apart most of the right side to get to that stator...

[iowawarrior]

a while back there was a guy overseas who had a bad stator. he ended up having it re-round/wired/worked. it was a whole big deal. i think that they might be hard to get {besides to get at} and it seems like he was looking at one from a car or different year because the one listed wasn't right somehow. AZW was in on the discussion, i think, and might come in handy if you have to replace it.
if you type in "bad stator" in the google search at the top of the page, there's lots of stuff on it. might help to diagnose or where to go if it's bad.

[LeaderDuece]

I rode my bike for an hour and checked the voltage. Running I had 13.4 volts and not running I had 12.4 volts. So my HID isn't pulling any extra juice. Did you wire the power leads straight to the battery or did you splice them in to something else? I wired straight to the battery. That could be your problem. Or you could have a bad component. My Chinese company replaced my first bulb for the price of shipping.

[jimsnorton]

No. You know all I had to connect was my headlight plug into the new wire harness, & connect all the rest of the connections to their respective locations. No hard wiring to anything. My harness came with a receptacle that plugs into the headlight plug & that's the only connection to my electrical system. Everything else plugs into the harness.
It looks like in order to check that stator winding I'll have to tear the right side of my bike apart! I haven't spotted any wiring coming out of that area where the "generator"/alternator is located... $165.00 for a new regulator might almost be worth it to not have to tear into a big ole harry tear down. Heck of a note. My FIRST problem, @104k miles has to be electrical...

[alanh]

jimsnorton ... my .02 and observations regarding your responses in no particular order not knowing where you are on your troubleshooting:

There is no need to remove the RH engine cover to check the ohms of the stator windings at this time as shown below. (page 7-37 describes the value)
This connector and harness runs uninterrupted to the rectifier. If you have an open circuit then i would visually inspect this cable for a breakage up to the cover grommet!


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Also, of some interest to this writer is your HID connection and Flash 2 Pass opener: If the HID directly connects to only the existing bulb socket than the OEM factory wiring/headlight relay and the Hi/Low switch are seeing a higher current from the HID ignitor since there are no direct battery connections.
Keep in mind that i do not have a HID and don't know the current draw of these devices and whether it's a inductive or resistive load that is seen at the OEM switch as i've never researched the components and perhaps you have a different generation.

Suggest you check the integrity of the charging circuit wiring from the rectifier back to the main fuse & battery before doing an R&R

I have no logical explanation for the low fuel level light coming on if you had an abundance of fuel on board as there will always be a surplus of fuel running across the FPR at all times ... period.
The only way the aux tank will run dry is if the fuel line is pinched from the main tank, a restrictive dry break is installed or there is no fuel in the main tank... added vent line included

Good luck

[LeaderDuece]

Hmmm.... Something's amiss here. Obviously I defer to AlanH concerning the stator etc. but I'm wondering about your HID setup. Mine had wiring from the relay (or whatever it is, but not the finned ballast box) straight to the battery. There was no additional strain on the stock wiring. I'm not an HID specialist, or even an expert in electrical, but I think your problem is your HID, not your bike. Perhaps it was designed solely for a car, where the stock wiring/charging system is more robust and could handle the extra draw on it.

I don't know what to say, other than something doesn't sound right...

[jimsnorton]

LD, I tried to get this to reference the HID install thread you started. #34 in that thread is the link where I bought my kit;
HID H4 35W 12V 6000K Bi-xenon Hi/Lo Bulb & DC Slim Ballast Kit for Motorcycle | eBay It is clearly for a motorcycle, but it might not be a "good" kit for a motorcycle... I'm using my GF's laptop, mine's broke, I'm happy to be able to participate in this discussion.