Serious fuse prob......

[yamaweezle]

Originally Posted by the_grider

...and of course bars are internally wired...

Ding, ding, ding!!! I bet that's where your issue is. Were you able to isolate the bars completely? I realize the bars are separate from the ground circuit, via the rubber mounts in the triple tree, but if you had multiple chaffed wires in the bars, or the clutch cable was providing a ground path for a single chaffed wire...might be something to consider.

[alanh]

Originally Posted by yamaweezle

Ding, ding, ding!!! I bet that's where your issue is. Were you able to isolate the bars completely? I realize the bars are separate from the ground circuit, via the rubber mounts in the triple tree, but if you had multiple chaffed wires in the bars, or the clutch cable was providing a ground path for a single chaffed wire...might be something to consider.

+1 ... the cable will provide a path to ground real world.

I recall a post not all that long ago, that i responded to, that was exactly this issue with turn signals going dim each and every time the OP touched the clutch lever the cable barrel provided a path to GRND
___________________________

Duane ... i just uploaded a new Warrior wiring diagram just for your model year

• New 5-Page Wiring Diagram Specific to '02-03' & '04-09' USA

[the_grider]

I agree with yall about the bars and they are internally wired. I have kept that consideration in mind. We took the headlight apart Sat and unplugged all but 2 (Kill and starter) switches, that are going into the bars. Still blows. I'm not ruling out bars, could certainly be there, and prob next step will be to to remove and check, not much fun there! LOL It would be much better if It were a hard ground so I could see with a VOM, instead only coming in at 2500 rpm!!!!!!! Kinda hard to find..................

[yamaweezle]

Originally Posted by the_grider

It would be much better if It were a hard ground so I could see with a VOM...

You could try hooking a DVOM from the bars to the negative side of the battery. Check it not running, at idle, and at your problem RPM. If there is a problem, you should see something.

[alanh]

Originally Posted by alanh

Duane ... my .02 & opinion follows:
You have an intermittent dead short in the Signal circuit that is taking out the 10A fuse.

The short appears at a certain frequency and will need to be identified by isolating the various branches of this circuit. This might require some labor intensive trouble shooting.

One logical explanation why it appears at the higher rpm would be because of the slightly increased voltage enabling the marginal short to the chassis. This is not a charging issue so don't waste your time.

For starters i would isolate/disconnect all the harness connectors on your '04' that are part of the Signal Fuse circuit. There are (8) connectors if i'm not mistaken. You won't be able to disconnect the Red 6-pin connector RH switch box housing but you could extract the Brown wire in the Headlight housing to rule out short in handlebar if internal wiring. The horn harnesses could also be an issue. I doubt the Denso flasher is an issue but you never know. Also would inspect very carefully where the wires run around the tach/speedo cable guides for pinching. Disconnect speedo & Tach too. Also check rear brake light harness

Good Luck

Originally Posted by the_grider

I agree with yall about the bars and they are internally wired. I have kept that consideration in mind. We took the headlight apart Sat and unplugged all but 2 (Kill and starter) switches, that are going into the bars. Still blows. I'm not ruling out bars, could certainly be there, and prob next step will be to to remove and check, not much fun there! LOL It would be much better if It were a hard ground so I could see with a VOM, instead only coming in at 2500 rpm!!!!!!! Kinda hard to find..................

Duane ... there are only (3) occurrences of the signal wire (Brown) in the headlamp housing if i'm not mistaken.

You can rule out all these wires by isolating them as previously discussed and marked above in RED. You only need to deal with these wires and nothing more. Make sure that the Brown wire is not grounded for the tach & speedo from the main harness within the headlight housing.

If you continue to blow a fuse with the above procedure the problem is else where so don't waste your time. Move on to the other component harnesses which might involve unwrapping those or the main harness.

[the_grider]

Alan, Thanks, My son is also following this thread so he may get a chance to start checking at home. This certainly sounds like it could be the prob, but if so, It should not be in the internal bar wiring. We had that all unplugged in headlight this weekend and fuse still blew, BUT I will recheck!!!! Should not be a prob running these down. Horns have been unplugged, but could certainly be in the wiring as could all your other suggestions! Thanks for all the time you have put into this Alan! And I have wondered about that flasher, you watch, that's prob gonna be it!!!!

[the_grider]

Well, as always, Alan pointed me in the right direction. I traced the Brown wire from fuse panel towards front of bike. It was fused in numerous places on the main run all the way to where 1 brown splits into 4. I replaced this wire up to where it splits into 4 brown wires and one Black w/white stripe(?) . Figured I had it whipped, but fuse still blew. Black going to horn, cut it out, now all good. Rear horn works, but front doesn't for now. However, front horn intermitantly comes on very low untill I unhooked it, without horn button pushed, just key on. If I'm not mistaken, horn is hot, and button completes ckt to ground??? That would explain it,so I still a high resistance short in that leg. Thanks Alan, for all your assistance and guidence!

[arizonawarrior]

That's wild glad you found it. The solid black is the 'ground side' of the front horn which later merges with the solid pink wire that goes to the horn switch. Yep the power exists to that point and pressing the horn button completes the circuit, so if the solid black wire was vibrating and shorting to metal then you found it. Did the horn relocate have much to do with it? Also, do you think all this time there might have been a momentary but possibly weak horn-sound at the moment it shorted to ground at ~2500 rpm but the motor noise masked it? Just wondering for the future!

[alanh]

Originally Posted by the_grider

Well, as always, Alan pointed me in the right direction. I traced the Brown wire from fuse panel towards front of bike. It was fused in numerous places on the main run all the way to where 1 brown splits into 4. I replaced this wire up to where it splits into 4 brown wires and one Black w/white stripe(?) . Figured I had it whipped, but fuse still blew. Black going to horn, cut it out, now all good. Rear horn works, but front doesn't for now. However, front horn intermitantly comes on very low untill I unhooked it, without horn button pushed, just key on. If I'm not mistaken, horn is hot, and button completes ckt to ground??? That would explain it,so I still a high resistance short in that leg. Thanks Alan, for all your assistance and guidence!

Duane .... Excellent troubleshooting on your part and hats off to you for the perseverance and faith to unwrap the main harness to find the faults .... you're on my 'A' Team

I suspect that's a typo above and should read B/W (black/white) but i've been wrong before

[alanh]

Originally Posted by arizonawarrior

That's wild glad you found it. The solid black is the 'ground side' of the front horn which later merges with the solid pink wire that goes to the horn switch. Yep the power exists to that point and pressing the horn button completes the circuit, so if the solid black wire was vibrating and shorting to metal then you found it. Did the horn relocate have much to do with it? Also, do you think all this time there might have been a momentary but possibly weak horn-sound at the moment it shorted to ground at ~2500 rpm but the motor noise masked it? Just wondering for the future!

You got your wires crossed there A&W as the Black wire is Grnd and will not, i repeat, will not cause a dead short ... though i suspect that Duane's RH horn might have a dead short now but that's a crapshoot!

I believe Duane cut the B/W (black/white) wire which is probably fused to the rear brake light sw brown wire as i suspect they physically run side by side. Now if the horn has a dead short it would see Grnd and would explain why he had to physically unplug the horn.