help needed for no spark

[THeBull]

have power to the coil
replaced the start solenoid Relay Diode
Recent woring work and had a little ark and spark.

Could it be the ECU?
Is there a way to test? I am thinking that the field is not colapsing.

[iowawarrior]

what recent "woring" work were you doing. it might help the brains to tell you what to look for. maybe you blew a fuse under the seat.

[alanh]

Originally Posted by THeBull

have power to the coil
replaced the start solenoid Relay Diode
Recent woring work and had a little ark and spark.

Could it be the ECU?
Is there a way to test? I am thinking that the field is not colapsing.

THeBull .... it's unclear to me whether you literally replaced a diode in your existing relay or replaced the relay unit, Item 9 (wiring diagram), with a new part.

I recall responding to an earlier thread of yours regarding a sparking issue or short and assume this is the same problem stemming from your rewiring of the main harness but don't recall any other further responses to the OP regarding the funtionality of the interlocks in the starting circuit.

My understanding is that the Warrior start circuit has an interlock to ever prevent triggering the ignition coils @ Pins 1&2 if the trani is NOT in neutral or the clutch lever engaged if it doesn't see the sidestand UP.

The bottom line is the ECU is looking for the interlocks which is a ground loop through the Ignition SW and originates at Pin 7 (Blue/Black) @ the ECU and changes color after being switched to Blue/Yellow. These wires are all negative polarity (ground).

I would suggest you review my hosted diagram or the manual to understand the loop.

If the fuel pump primes and the starter motor engages then the Start circuit relays (2) are operating. The diodes form part of the logic as does the tracing that connects these diodes within the relay and could be the issue.

The hosted diagram has bookmarks that cover the trouble shooting of the diodes.

If you have a new relay unit i would suspect that there is an interruption in the ground loop someplace.

I've yet to see a member destroy an ECU with POSITIVE poarity across this ground loop circuit. (Dead Short)

Hope this brings some clearity to your issue

Good Luck

[THeBull]

Allen thank you for your reply. I did change the relay unit.

I am having trouble understanding the interuption in the ground loop as you mentioned. However I am suspecting that you are right.

I have done such extensive work that the original diagram vs what I have is hard to link together.

the fuel pum does prime and it does crank. I dont have the original gage on it anymore. I have installed a Dakota gage, In the process still. I dont have original ignition however the set up I replaced the ignition with has been in place for a long time and was functioning fine before I had this problem.

One off thing, when I crank the bike the gage dims and flashes in and out a lot.

What do you mean when you say hosted diagram? Where do I find that?

Is ther a way to measure a resistance or current at these wires or pins 1, 2 and 7 that you mention?

[THeBull]

I dont know if this will help.

I fished out the blue/black and blue/yellow wires from the harness going to the front of the bike and tested them. Between the two with the bike on the curcuit is open. Also open if I pull the clutch.

The blue/yellow tested to ground is open (ohms test)

the blue/black to ground is open (ohms test)

the blue/yellow to ground is 0 volts

the blue/black to ground is 9+ volts (does not seem right, should also be ground?)

the blue/black to blue/yellow is 9+ volts (seems odd since blue/yellow will not read any ohms)

[THeBull]

I cut the blue/black close to the ECU and it still reads 10 Volts

[iowawarrior]

in alan's signature is the wiring diagram which, if you've ever thought of killing yourself, this would make up your mind. but there is also the starting system {advanced}. that might help.

[THeBull]

i figured it out. When I eliminated the ignition switch a long time ago. I had cut the blue/black and blue/yellow wires back and perminantly tied them together inside the wire harness.

When I did my latest wire harness rework I had trimmed back the wire harness and cut out the piece that I had tied together and did not realize it. I tied the wires back together and wala, it fires up.

Thanks for talking me thru and making me think about it.

[alanh]

Originally Posted by THeBull

i figured it out. When I eliminated the ignition switch a long time ago. I had cut the blue/black and blue/yellow wires back and perminantly tied them together inside the wire harness.

When I did my latest wire harness rework I had trimmed back the wire harness and cut out the piece that I had tied together and did not realize it. I tied the wires back together and wala, it fires up.

Thanks for talking me thru and making me think about it.

you're welcome if this is directed to this writer ... regardless, It's always nice to read about a happy ending

FYI, if checking voltage in the Grnd Loop is your mission, the polarity of the test probes are critical and if in series with a diode there will be a voltage drop ... case closed ...