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Wrap around fork LED turn signals- how to

32K views 103 replies 55 participants last post by  semperfit  
#1 ·
i REALLY like this accessory [/emoticons/emotion-5.gif][/emoticons/emotion-5.gif]

took a few pix along the way to show you whats involved in this.

first off you obviously need to remove the front turn signals. after which i cut these bullet connector ends off to use on the new lights.



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you have Green/Blue/black on the bikes right side, and Brown/Blue/Black on the bikes left side. cut back the wires a few inches so you have something to work with. the Black is the ground, the blue is the running light which i did not use in this mod, and the Brown on one side, Green on the other are the actual power for the blinkers. you can solder or crimp them directly and not use these ends if you want. i chose to solder the stock connectors on in case i ever need to take the forks off, i can unhook the lights easily.


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these are the connections in the headlight bucket.



they give you this tube that the LED strip goes in. its a section a lil longer than one foot you'll want to take this and wrap it around the fork, or chrome fork tube and cut it to length leaving about an inch or so between the two ends.
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once you have it cut to length heat it with a heat gun to soften it up, pull the plastic off the adhesive strip on the back and press it into place. obviously make suer you clean the fork real good before you do this.


then the 1ft LED strip must be cut in two. you can see the line where the pointer is. its segmented every .60" and you can snap it over a straight edge or the edge of your workbench.
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(sorry this pic sux) you can then cut the wire they give you in half so you can use half for each side. then solder the red to the side with the lil resistor, and black to the other. i'm sure like with other LEDs if you get it too hot for to long you'll destroy the LED so make sure the iron is hot so it will work quick and make sure they dont end up touching. its close, and that would be bad...lol
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solder the stock connectors on the red and black wires from the LED strip and use shrink tubing to seal it up. (black to black, brown or green to red)
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so that i didnt have the lil bit of red/black wire exposed from the LED's tothe headlight bucket i used two lenghts of black heat shrink to cover it up.
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then you can slide the LED's into the tube
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with the LED strip all the way in you can put the caps on. the ont on the right is a solid cap, and the one on the left has a hole on the underside for the wire to come out. put a dab of silicone in the tube before you put this cap on to seal it up. the LEDS are not water proof so they could otherwise get ruined.
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then you're left with this..
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and when its lit,....
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ready to go on
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i had to remove these two bolts and the brackets that attach the brake lines to the triple tree to gain the lil bit of clearance i needed to make the LED's fit.
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very bright, and the unlit one on the right is barely noticable.
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almost invisible
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sell your wife on the "safety of them. they can bee seen from the front, the side, and the rear
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the safety factor really helpped sell me on the idea of it. that is why i put them on the underside of the lower tree. even from this vantage point the front sigs are still visible. if you dont notice all that were all in trouble. one last chance to let people on your side an din your blind spot know what youre about to do.
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at night they are almost blinding. this is at night in my garage with 4 lights on above it. VERY bright.
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crappy pic cause its night time, but thats the rear view of the flexible LED's and the UFO in action.
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i have NO load equalizers being used yet. they work fine, the bike operates just fine, the blinkers blink about twice the normal rate which i think makes them more visible. safety CAN look good[/emoticons/emotion-2.gif][/emoticons/emotion-2.gif]
 
#16 ·
thanks guys, no probs with it so far shutting it off in gear as usual. at least for now. maybe it takes a while for the gremlins to come out. i have 2 load equalizers in the garage in case i need them.

vector.. i'm painting the R1 fender now, those custom bars should be done one of these days soon, eibach spring needs to go on ... there is still a long list for winter[/emoticons/emotion-2.gif]



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#20 ·
Thanks Audio77 - I was 95% going to order the same forkmount kit a fortnight ago but was a little sceptical on the performance of it. I'm in the process of ordering mine right now, but being in Australia, will probably have to wait a while for it.[V]
[?]In the meantime, can you tell me if you are using a load equaliser on your setup? And I notice the video shows the indicators aren't flashing smoothly (sometimes they flicker)- is this what really happens or is it my computer? Thanks!
 
#26 ·
UPDATE

its been 4 months since i installed them, and i've taken th ebike on two good sized road trips thru HOURS of rain and about every kind of condition. over 4000 mi since april in all. they are still attached as firm as the day i did it, and i think as long as you prep the surface right they will stay on a looong long time.