RS Warrior Forum banner

LOWERED - Rear fender chop. DONE - Page 1

16K views 44 replies 28 participants last post by  orfino10 
#1 ·
I deleted the previous photos to make it load quicker. I practiced on the extra fender I had, then went to work cutting the painted stock fender last night. This allows me to run the bike now and not be forced to get the custom paint work done right away.

I still have some bugs to work out with the fender - I have to trim more off of the front left side of the read fender because it is hitting my belt guard with just me and will KILL the belt guard when I am 2-up.

Fender is marked, measured, taped, ready to be cut.

Image Insert:


FINISHED FENDER:


Image Insert:


Image Insert:


Image Insert:
 
See less See more
4
#5 ·
Sparc...that's the beauty - all that stuff under the fender is gone - and yes, the blue part is going away. The cut is about 1.25" after the end of the hump, so once the fender is cut I will have to tap it flat and smooth it out. The lights won't be going back on - the first image shows the side fender mount lights that will go back on. They bolt from the inside and will serve as the back fender stay bolts. There won't be a taillight on the fender any more. I will be running the two fender strut lights and the lower light with the license plate.
 
#7 ·
I PM'd you back. No, the bracket and light are one piece - it taps into the rear axle and is adjustable up or down. They make a left side AND a right side, so you can choose whether you want it to stick out from the bike or actually wrap around the back of the pulley. I was concerned with it being too close to the rim and tire to really stand out and when I widen the rear end I didn't want any issues with it being hidden within the rim. The lights are running/brake lights - but I am sure that some industrious member will eventually pull the panel off and wire it for turn signal setup.
 
#9 ·
VERY CLOSE. I just cut the fender, but I won't have the custom paint done in time, so I am going to have to just paint the fender some color that is close - it won't match, but at least it will be on the bike. I just coated it with a quick coat of black so I could see any imperfections in the fender - there were two. There the taillight mounting bracket attaches to the fender, there are two "pressure welds" holding it to the fender. I couldn't get a good angle on it so I tried to gentle 'pry' it up alittle to cut it off and I made two eraser sized dimples in the top side. Easily filled.

Only problem I have noticed is that the sheet metal isn't very thick and the end of the fender is pretty unstable. I am going to have to see if I can find a way to weld a bead on the inside along the edge just to strengthen it a little.
 
#10 ·
"Only problem I have noticed is that the sheet metal isn't very thick and the end of the fender is pretty unstable. I am going to have to see if I can find a way to weld a bead on the inside along the edge just to strengthen it a little."

Hey, I just said that in another post! Looks nearly professional Paul. Nice work.
 
#11 ·
LOL - I just read what you wrote in the other post and was about the write you about the cold rolled steel. I am going to try the bead rolled edge first and see what happens. It's not too bad, but I was actually able to bend the stock "hump" out of the fender using my thumbs, so to me - that's not strong enough.

I am trying to get this **** thing up and running again. I have now picked a paint scheme and a painter - so I may be jumping on that train soon.
 
#14 ·
quote:Originally posted by BartenderSammy


I PM'd you back. No, the bracket and light are one piece - it taps into the rear axle and is adjustable up or down. They make a left side AND a right side, so you can choose whether you want it to stick out from the bike or actually wrap around the back of the pulley. I was concerned with it being too close to the rim and tire to really stand out and when I widen the rear end I didn't want any issues with it being hidden within the rim. The lights are running/brake lights - but I am sure that some industrious member will eventually pull the panel off and wire it for turn signal setup.


Can you say where you got your awesome plate bracket/light combo? I must have one! I tried to see if you had it listed in your gallery page with no luck. Also, is it steel or aluminum? Thanks in advance!
 
#15 ·
TTBONE - I haven't updated the gallery in a while. I am getting to that.

The plate bracket is from HellRiser customs, but if you do a search on eBay for "side plate mount" or "radius side plate mount" (depending on whether or not you want straight or curved to match the pulley). I paid $135 for mine - there are alot of guys selling them, so don't jump on the first one you see. To use it, you will have to tap the axle out to whatever bolt size you decide to use. I can't remember which one I used. I have an extra that I will measure for you and let you know. I bought a chromed bolt with an allen drive head. It finishes it off nicely.

Oh yea, the plate is chromed alluminum.
 
#17 ·
quote: To use it, you will have to tap the axle out to whatever bolt size you decide to use. I can't remember which one I used.
Oh yea, the plate is chromed alluminum.


9/16th

works perfectly...

I ground the facing side to match the axle-end... just to diminish the annoying effect of gravity... I used a dremel and a cutting wheel...

save the aluminum shavings to make thermite!
 
#18 ·
Facing side?? Not sure what you mean - what did you grind off??


quote:
***************
9/16th

works perfectly...

I ground the facing side to match the axle-end... just to diminish the annoying effect of gravity... I used a dremel and a cutting wheel...

save the aluminum shavings to make thermite!
 
#20 ·
quote:Originally posted by BartenderSammy

Facing side?? Not sure what you mean - what did you grind off??

the part of the radial license plate holder that faces the axle-end...
I carved out a similar shape to the butt end of the axle... since the axle is shaped that way to keep IT from turning, and it is just a bit thicker than it needs to be, there is the barest minimum you need to remove from the radial plate holder, and it will resist 'drooping'.
I wish I had been smart enough to take pictures while I was doing it.

[V]
sorry
I hope I've been SOME help...
 
#24 ·
CoolD -
I meant to sent you some photos of the "in process" process. No, fender doesn't bend because I DIDN'T take the support out. I know you said you had to - but you don't.

Pull your fender off, take the support plate and grind off the bolts that are there in the stock locations. Put the plate inside the fender and bolt the seat stays in from the top (if you still have them) so that it holds the plate steady, and redrill the bolt holes at the new locations. Then bolt the fender back on - all you need is an 8mm bolt to hold the stock bolts on. I have the stock plate under the fender and dropped my fender the same amount you did - so it can be done.

Also, since the fender stay bolts are now lined up almost exactly at the end of the support plate, if you run the custom lights that mount to the rear fender support bolts, the wires will run up and under the support plate so you don't have to worry about the tire ripping them off if you bump.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top