Free "click of death" fix

[60ftgap]

Just put Leds on front I already had led rear and tag light delete so I got the COD. although I use the key putting it in neutral is not cool for me. so Alanh said I could use a car dash light to drain the power. got to thinking that the oem tag light had incandescent bulbs..Hmmm..took it apart got the bulbs out ,cut one off and trimmed all the rubber i could off the other, wrapped it in tape, stuck it above the tag, plugged it in the original tag plugs. now i have a tag light and no COD...FREE

[LeaderDuece]

that's a great idea, but I'm thinking that the tape will dry out due to the heat. Maybe you could use silicone tape and a zip tie to hold it tight instead?

Still, love the idea.

[1256day]

I like the idea too. I think I'm gonna look into that.

G

[randy_ny]

Originally Posted by LeaderDuece

that's a great idea, but I'm thinking that the tape will dry out due to the heat. Maybe you could use silicone tape and a zip tie to hold it tight instead?

Still, love the idea.

Use black shrink wrap around the base of the bulb.
It comes in all sizes.

[iowawarrior]

cool. ya gotta love free.

[arizonawarrior]

The stock set-up was redundant with four bulb filaments in the circuit to do the work (left and right front running lights and two license plate bulbs).

This bulb idea has been used in the past. Some have installed bulbs in the headlight bucket and even under the rider seat like an under-hood light except its always-on. The down-side is when a bulb cannot transfer heat thru its glass then the heat is retained, and that likely reduces filament life. In any event, bulb filaments tend to fail even in a good install, so when that single bulb's filament eventually fails then cod will unexpectedly return - so stay alert!

[60ftgap]

Originally Posted by arizonawarrior

The stock set-up was redundant with four bulb filaments in the circuit to do the work (left and right front running lights and two license plate bulbs).

This bulb idea has been used in the past. Some have installed bulbs in the headlight bucket and even under the rider seat like an under-hood light except its always-on. The down-side is when a bulb cannot transfer heat thru its glass then the heat is retained, and that likely reduces filament life. In any event, bulb filaments tend to fail even in a good install, so when that single bulb's filament eventually fails then cod will unexpectedly return - so stay alert!

Great info Zona thats why i stuck it back as a tag light so if it burns out i could see it. I will one day use the relay you talking about but it seems to be on back order for 10 weeks. that fuckin cod has already drained my battery so had to stop it and quick.I wanna be like Mike

[iowawarrior]

i guess i didn't realize you could put a bulb anywhere in the system. i took it for granted that it had to be hooked into the front blinkers somehow. i guess because that's how everybody does it. i'm lucky. i have an integrated tail light and fast blinkers and almost always shut the bike off with the kill switch, but have never had the COD.

[60ftgap]

Originally Posted by iowawarrior

i guess i didn't realize you could put a bulb anywhere in the system. i took it for granted that it had to be hooked into the front blinkers somehow. i guess because that's how everybody does it. i'm lucky. i have an integrated tail light and fast blinkers and almost always shut the bike off with the kill switch, but have never had the COD.

You still have the front incandescent bulbs. I never had it till i switched the fronts.

[bruce59]

I have an air/ fuel gauge and used the running light wire to feed the bulb in the gauge. Killed two birds with one stone.