HID Install - Page 8 - Road Star Warrior Forum : Yamaha Star Warrior Forums

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Old 11-09-2012, 01:49 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Default HID ta go-go

After a steady 5 hrs I got it finished. I had to solder some extensions to the 'control' lines, and then get all the wires run, I used the light bucket opening near the steering head. I've used that opening for all the accessories I've added. I had to put all the hardware under the seat. It was a chore to get the light installed into the light bucket. There is so much stuff in there, plus all I've added. But did get it done. I have my air filters in cleaning solution right now, so I haven't ridden it yet. My garage door opener works. I found that out when I was toggling my hi/lo beam off & on. I also figured out that, when you go from hi to lo beam the light bulb actually moves in & out, axially. I think it works like a "poppet" in a solenoid, which causes the bulbs focal spot to move much like switching filaments in a standard H4. It's nearly 11:00 pm here so I'll have to wait until tomorrow nite to get a real "look" at how it works. Can't wait.
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:27 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Great write up LD...didnt know about the HID extension harness.
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:45 AM   #73 (permalink)
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Thanks man. Frankly I'm surprised more aren't doing this -although severa have and just never wrote it up...
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Old 11-09-2012, 02:41 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Default So very close...

I'm gonna need another HV extension, a little longer than the 3' one I bought. The HV connectors locate themselves right where the wire bundle & the fuel line passes under the rear tank mounting flange. I was able to pull the connectors, towards the front just enough so I could mount the tank without pinching the gas line. I would rather have more length so I might be able to have more relaxed high tension lines. Right now I have had to offset the two connectors to keep their individual bulk from "adding" together making a large profile, and that enabled me to pass the fuel line without pinching. I worry a little about the two "loops" I had to create in each connection in order to get them offset from one another. I do have it all buttoned up, & everything seems to work. I won't really know 'till I can ride it in the dark.
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Old 11-09-2012, 03:50 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Dang, that sucks. They do make longer ones. What made you decide to go under seat instead of under tank?
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:50 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Red face

Well, actually 'cause I bought that 3' extension! Then, since I had I didn't feel good about coiling all that wire up in the engine compartment. Then I did a worse thing, IMO in coiling up the two individual leads. I really need do it again. Another thing that drove me there was that I added too much length to my control wires. I mimicked the HV extender, & that meant I'd have to coil those up as well. Yeah, next time I have to go under my tank, I'm gonna redo it. I'll just shorten my control harness I fabbed up, then I'll only have to deal with the HV leads. In fact maybe I'll see if the guys I got my extension from have a 2'. That would be about right. I'm just so pumped to see the difference.
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:15 PM   #77 (permalink)
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I got my bulb like yours today and just installed it. There IS a noticeable difference. I would highly recommend getting a kit with the reflective tip. I'll post up the link to mine later.

Sent from my DROID RAZR
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:07 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Waddya think, LD? I just took a ride, down to the freeway, then off to some dark, one/two lane mountain roads & the low beam is off the charts!However the high beam isn't that good at all. I get a really bright horizontal line, well above low beam level, but it's just a line of light! Below that the light is so dispersed it's really useless. I can visualize that on a long dark straight it might be okay, but around here nada... Your eye is drawn up to that level, and because there is so little light below I had to really concentrate to look at the road. I also realized that on some tight turns, with a elevation change, that once you start to compress your front end, flicking on the hi beams lights up the transition really well, where the low beams alone, shine so brightly that you can't see anything except what they are illuminating which at that point it's an area just a few feet in front of you. I'm a little disappointed. And very disappointed with the hi beam. I hope that yours works better. I wonder if a new reflector will cure the poor high beam pattern, or maybe a different bulb? But by & large if you are commuting & don't hot dog on dark mountain roads, that the lo beam alone is just about worth the price of admission. LD, I'm very interested if you realize the same broken pattern with the high beam. It's cold out tonight so maybe I'll bring my camera out tomorrow & take some photos.

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Old 11-09-2012, 09:14 PM   #79 (permalink)
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Low beam is definitely worth it, and yeah the high beam isn't as tight. Have you tried adjusting your light yet? You can adjust the whole bucket you know.
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:29 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Unhappy Not there yet...

I may have discovered why the high beam is so scattered (loose). In a standard H4, bulb the two filaments are about .300" apart, center of filament to the center of the other. That obviously changes the focal spot, which works in conjunction with the reflector to alter the beam from hi to lo. The HID light only toggles, moves in & out, about 1/2 that distance. I have a feeling that if there is an HID bulb "out there in Internet land", that moves closer to 1/4" that that might resolve the "loose" high beam pattern. Good choice of words, LD. I might also 'look' at the tip reflector to see if I can Dremmel away some material, that it may be possible to slightly improve upon the lo beam. Maybe get more of a light "halo", that would help in the twisties. As I mentioned, when the suspension compresses, in a tight L-R; R-L, transition when there is a elevation change, like a dip in the curve the light is squished, really tightens up, as tho you just have a really bright flashlight pointing at the ground a few feet in front of the bike. However if you are quick on the dip switch, & toggle to hi beam at that "compressed" incident then the curve becomes well lit! Now this is an "off the wall" observation... There may be a way to utilize the lean angle sensors, and grab a "signal" from those modules to force the bike to switch to the high beam at a set angle. That would help in the hard turns, as described, 'cause I had no trouble in seeing my way, when I made the effort to switch to hi beam. In all, the lo beam is t!t's, if you don't compress the suspension. But the low beam alone, prolly isn't reason enough to go thru the whole change over routine, until the high beam issue can be resolved. Believe me when I say, there will be incidents riding in the twisties, where you will be on the edge of your seat, blinded by the light that you don't have, & really creating a "pucker"!
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