Hey Carknee, great instructions and pics. Beats the heck out of the manuals suggestion to bring to the dealer. [8D]
I thought I would add, for any newbies, that it only takes .42 quarts, so don't expect much lube.
Also, as an alternative, when filling through the fill hole with the bike level, using a flashlight you can easily see when the lube level reaches the center of the level check hole without removing the bolt. No biggie, just saves trying to plug the hole before any lube escapes, maybe a little less wipe up.

 

Good job, CarKnee, as usual.
So what you think about using synthetic in this application? Red Line has a GL-4 70W80 lubricant called "MTL." Amsoil has a GL-4 80W90. What we think?

 

folks, you dont have to remove the muffler for transfer case service. i made a tool from a piece of plastic that resembles a cut down butter knife. the hardest thing was starting the threads on the filler plug because of the strange angle & limited space, but it is easier than removeing the exhaust. hope this helps

 

Great instructions nice pics too

 

Great job, Carknee. I'll be changing mine tomorrow, as usual your directions were right on time!

 

Best instructions I've seen. Much better than the Yamaha service manual...

 

I can't find any straight 80 weight oil even on the yamaha website all I see is 80W90. Will the 80W90 work? I would much rather use what the manual calls for. Got any suggestions on were I might find a straight 80 weight. Already tried all the parts stores in my area. Tried the amsoil and valvoline web sites too and no luck.

 

Redline makes a 75W80W GL-4 oil that is commonly used in T-5 Mustang manual transmissions. Another option is a fluid that meets John Deeres J20 specifications or Ford MC 134 Tractor Hydraulic Fluid specs. Chevron calls these THF 1000. Other majors have their own names for these driveline oils. When I worked with Amoco, we had these fluids running in bothe Nascar and Busch cars with literally NO WEAR anywhere in the driveline. Best part of these is the fact that they don't have the super high sulfur phosphorous content of the GL-5 lubricants, which can cause seal and metal corrosion at high temperatures. Also, the 75/90 or 80/90 are too high in viscosity. Yamaha recommends a 80W GL4 which is more like a SAE 20 motor oil in viscosity. Plus the GL4 does not have the extensive additive treat rate so it won't eat up the soft components. If you need more detail, email me at SDVA@Chevrontexaco.com I'm a lube engineer with almost 30 years experience in product formulation and will be glad to help you with your concerns.

Sam Vallas
Lubrication Specialist, CLS
Orange City, Florida
386-775-9309
sdva@chevrontexaco.com

 

Thanks Carknee for the instructions. Just finished this job, and thought I would add a couple of notes. First, I tried to do this maneuver without removing the muffler and header, and it was a pain in the butt. I managed to completely munge the oil filler plug with various utensils and ended up ordering a new one ($11.50 from Yamahahahaha). Removing the muffler and header may seem like a bigger pain, but after doing the job this way it was worth it. Second, the rear header is easier to get back on if you loosen the front header nuts just a tad. This gives you a little "wiggle room" to make sure everything mates back together without undue force. Further (FYI), I did this without a bike jack, and it worked just fine.

Thanks again!

-M

 

Should the transfer case oil be red like a auto trans fluid?
Looks thicker than trans fluid.
What do you guys think?

 

As I recall, I used Mobil one synthetic gear oil.

 

Thanks for the instructions CarKnee, they worked perfectly even with the chrome cover installed instead of the stock one.

 

This is great! I have to do this in couple of months. Great job CarKnee!! I'm a fan of your howto threads!!! [/emoticons/emotion-2.gif]

 

how much gear oil is needed?

 

quote:Originally posted by kjum

Hey Carknee, great instructions and pics. Beats the heck out of the manuals suggestion to bring to the dealer. [8D]
I thought I would add, for any newbies, that it only takes .42 quarts, so don't expect much lube
Also, as an alternative, when filling through the fill hole with the bike level, using a flashlight you can easily see when the lube level reaches the center of the level check hole without removing the bolt. No biggie, just saves trying to plug the hole before any lube escapes, maybe a little less wipe up.

Here ya go

 

Im going to try this in a day or two,one quik question, Would it be to my advantage to warm the bike up a bit before draining the gear oil? Just let it idle a while or do I actually need to ride it around?

 

I know synthetics work great for the engine lube but is it safe for the gear oil and the wet clutches?

 

The only thing in there is a double-row chain and two sprockets. Go to Wal-Mart and get yourself some Rotella 75W-90 GL5 gear lube.

Repeat - the ONLY thing that you are lubricating is a double row chain on two sprockets. Straight 40 or 50 weight motor oil would probably work just fine.

Yamaha calls for a GL-4 (Hypoid shaft drive) gear oil but all of the Yamaha dealers that I've spoken to say that they use the Yamaha GL-5 gear lube. The problem with the GL-5 is that it has a lot more additives (normally good) but has a tendency to eat soft metals (e.g. brass/bronze bearings). Not to worry - none of that in there. If this worries you in the least, find one that says GL-4/GL-5 compatible. Most of them say that already.

Just so you know - 75W-90 gear oil is about the same viscosity as 20W-50 motor oil.

Harley had the same setup in their primary gear cases except that Harley also stuffs the clutch basket in there. Wouldn't waste the $$$ on fully synthetic gear oil just to lube a chain going around and around on two sprockets.

My personal opinion, of course. Your mileage may vary.

 

I like the idea of the cardboard to direct the oil in to the pan.
When I did mine I had oil all over the frame.

 

Thanks Carknee, I did everything as you stated and it worked great. I did get into a problem though. I ended up overtightening the check screw. BE careful not to do this!! So the screw would not tighten and would come out easily. Luckily a fellow member (Thanks RF Wiz) had an extra cover. He helped me out and I was only down for a day, but I was pissed at myself. Silly mistake but happens. Anyway I used lucas Oil synthetic in the transfer case.

 

quote:Originally posted by COOP

I can't find any straight 80 weight oil even on the yamaha website all I see is 80W90. Will the 80W90 work? I would much rather use what the manual calls for. Got any suggestions on were I might find a straight 80 weight. Already tried all the parts stores in my area. Tried the amsoil and valvoline web sites too and no luck.


Does anyone have an answer for this?? I'm curious what everyone is using too....

Dave

 

quote:Originally posted by Warrior_Dave

Does anyone have an answer for this?? I'm curious what everyone is using too....

Dave


Dont know about straight 80w. I used Mobil1 Syn 75w90 from a local auto parts store.

 

Great info THX man! I also use this method which I like the best;

http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=25590&SearchTerms=no,mess

 

quote:Originally posted by 67fb

quote:Originally posted by Warrior_Dave

Does anyone have an answer for this?? I'm curious what everyone is using too....

Dave


Dont know about straight 80w. I used Mobil1 Syn 75w90 from a local auto parts store.


Just curious, is that what everyone else is using too? How about a petroleum based product? Any suggestions?

Dave

 

Just so everyone knows. If you want to use Yamaha's brand name gear oil, here is what the bottle looks like. This way you know what it is when you see it at the shop.

Insert Image:

82.06KB

Dave