talking paint......just some things maybe some didn't know

[LeaderDuece]

This thread is another example of why we need a tech tips forum.

[Crown Custom Conversions]

I always wet sand the last guide cote off the filler before primer. Good wet sand with block before liquid is priceless!

[btk572]

no good wet sand of bondo or filler unless water tight! and i still wouldnt do it,it can trap water in the filler and later come out under a paint job, that is not priceless its pricey and could be costly. any time bondo or filler gets wet it should sit a day before proceeding with top coats. thats how i am, now 10 other people will say they have done different, but when you are putting your name and work on someone elses bike or vehicle or whatever you paint ,you want to do it once with no chances of a come back. comebacks cost double time and double materials and you cant fix when some jackasss runs his mouth about something he knows nothing about, thats why he had a professional do the work, but a jackasss is out either advertising the work or discrediting the work. just my thoughts, btk572

[gchalifo]

? hmm,
this use of the term jackass??? is a general use of the term...or did you have someone in mind? also, have you ever had this happen to a paint job? just curious, cause I have been doing my own body work for 5 years and never seen anything like this ever happen, at least not to my work....

also? what do you mean water tight? how exactly, for example, do you get something water tight? it's something personally I have never worried about....

school me brother....

Originally Posted by btk572

no good wet sand of bondo or filler unless water tight! and i still wouldnt do it,it can trap water in the filler and later come out under a paint job, that is not priceless its pricey and could be costly. any time bondo or filler gets wet it should sit a day before proceeding with top coats. thats how i am, now 10 other people will say they have done different, but when you are putting your name and work on someone elses bike or vehicle or whatever you paint ,you want to do it once with no chances of a come back. comebacks cost double time and double materials and you cant fix when some jackasss runs his mouth about something he knows nothing about, thats why he had a professional do the work, but a jackasss is out either advertising the work or discrediting the work. just my thoughts, btk572

[active1951]

Originally Posted by gchalifo

? hmm,
this use of the term jackass??? is a general use of the term...or did you have someone in mind? also, have you ever had this happen to a paint job? just curious, cause I have been doing my own body work for 5 years and never seen anything like this ever happen, at least not to my work....

also? what do you mean water tight? how exactly, for example, do you get something water tight? it's something personally I have never worried about....

school me brother....

I have seen very small bubbles in fiberglass that some folks thought was moisture, but it turned out to be the adhesives used in the fiberglass. They really would show up in cars left out in the hot sun...
.
.

[LeaderDuece]

Originally Posted by btk572

no good wet sand of bondo or filler unless water tight! and i still wouldnt do it,it can trap water in the filler and later come out under a paint job, that is not priceless its pricey and could be costly. any time bondo or filler gets wet it should sit a day before proceeding with top coats. thats how i am, now 10 other people will say they have done different, but when you are putting your name and work on someone elses bike or vehicle or whatever you paint ,you want to do it once with no chances of a come back. comebacks cost double time and double materials and you cant fix when some jackasss runs his mouth about something he knows nothing about, thats why he had a professional do the work, but a jackasss is out either advertising the work or discrediting the work. just my thoughts, btk572

whaaaa??

Dang dude, there's more than one way to skin a cat, no need to label people who do it different...

[btk572]

to make it perfectly clear to all! ( i am not calling anybody or anyone a jackasss here) ! jackass refers to a customer that would run his mouth if there was a trapped moisture problem under paint work,! no one here!

now to clear up some other issue , water tight filler is marine grade filler that will not let liquids into it. one commonly known product is duraglass. its much harder then regular lite weight filler and way harder to sand. i use it on areas that have been patched so if there is a pin hole in the weld the water cant attack the filler from the back side.

i will not bash or down anyone on this forum in any way, just so you all know. yes there are many ways to skin a cat and that fact is why what works for one person might not work for another, in the body work world there are so many different ways to body work,paint ,buff that it isnt funny. one guy likes cheap paint because he just does basic paint work, the next guy like the high dollar stuff because of certain workability factors, fast dry bases to do many colors and tape outs before clear coat, or air brush work, or many stages of candies, it all makes the world go around.
hope that clears up how some of you may have misunderstood what i was talking about. sorry for any confussion. back to work, btk572

[gchalifo]

well said Bill!, I get that!! makes perfect sense!
g

Originally Posted by btk572

to make it perfectly clear to all! ( i am not calling anybody or anyone a jackasss here) ! jackass refers to a customer that would run his mouth if there was a trapped moisture problem under paint work,! no one here!

now to clear up some other issue , water tight filler is marine grade filler that will not let liquids into it. one commonly known product is duraglass. its much harder then regular lite weight filler and way harder to sand. i use it on areas that have been patched so if there is a pin hole in the weld the water cant attack the filler from the back side.

i will not bash or down anyone on this forum in any way, just so you all know. yes there are many ways to skin a cat and that fact is why what works for one person might not work for another, in the body work world there are so many different ways to body work,paint ,buff that it isnt funny. one guy likes cheap paint because he just does basic paint work, the next guy like the high dollar stuff because of certain workability factors, fast dry bases to do many colors and tape outs before clear coat, or air brush work, or many stages of candies, it all makes the world go around.
hope that clears up how some of you may have misunderstood what i was talking about. sorry for any confussion. back to work, btk572

[Caledonian Warrior]

Originally Posted by 1256day

G

Your painting has inspired me to try actually painting.

G

G, when priming, did you understand about the 180 grit question you asked a while back ?

Originally Posted by Mike7202

ok I have a body work question. I have a dented tank (dented in the same spot you see most warrior tanks dented after a laydown) its not a big dent. I have filled it with bondo and sanded it about 3 different times and i cant seem to get it even. I tried just a regular piece of sandpaper and I also tried one of those foam sanding block like you would find at home depot. what am i missing here? am i having an equipment problem or a technique problem

Mike, maybe you're meaning, most times when a panel or tank gets dented, it causes the steel to dent out slightly around the area. This could be how you feel it's not even. Here's one I did yesterday with this very problem, I took my cross pein hammer and dressed it back. You can just see the steel through the filler in the bottom picture.
Another tip, If you're right handed, ALWAYS use your left hand to feel for ripples and imperfections. Your left hand will be more sensitive. I wouldn't use any foam block either, it doesn't cut as flat as you need. A perfect cut block of hardwood will do you for years, even when using wet and dry paper.

Originally Posted by crown

I always wet sand the last guide cote off the filler before primer. Good wet sand with block before liquid is priceless!

Not a good idea Crown. Just as btk said about drying time, but also, something he missed, if there are pinholes in the filler, and you sand wet, then the dust becomes paste and fills the pinholes with paste. You can't get the damp paste out.....ever, which will cause problems down the road.

Gav.

[Crown Custom Conversions]

Quote:
Originally Posted by crown
I always wet sand the last guide cote off the filler before primer. Good wet sand with block before liquid is priceless!

Not a good idea Crown. Just as btk said about drying time, but also, something he missed, if there are pinholes in the filler, and you sand wet, then the dust becomes paste and fills the pinholes with paste. You can't get the damp paste out.....ever, which will cause problems down the road.

Gav.


You are correct. Dry time is important. We are not involved in production work such as a body shop would be. Only custom and restoration work here.
So this process is not a good idea for someone thats in a hurry.
Was shown this process 25 yrs ago and have had no issues.
If you are wet sanding your primer and burn thru to filler it is same outcome. Must let dry before more primer.

Like was said before. More than 1 way to skin a cat.