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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: south england
Posts: 1,274
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ok guys just been out and had a look at my tail end and the heat is playing **** with the tail end . gav told me that when he painted it there was a problem.
he also told warmar about it but to date no reply so i think i should make it VERY CLEAR that he has a problem with his gel coat .or wot ever just a head's up as we are not talking CHEAP and also BP1 IS HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM .so keep this in mind if you are thinking of getting one of these rear tail end's . ![]() ![]() ![]() will let you all know if i get a up date from WARMAR ![]()
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Why don't I understand what you're talking about?
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![]() 1. Fender, Tailight, mod:http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/14-i...mount-mod.html 2. Raked, hidden caliper & R-1 mod: http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/14-i...ml#post2247607 3.Tank Fabrication: http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/10-w...ress-tank.html 4. Attention to Detail: http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/10-w...on-detail.html |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Anderson Indiana
Posts: 48
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What I think he is referring to is his paint blowing up (fish eyes) on his fiberglass part it has happened to me on some various plastic type parts on other projects and the solution has been to bake the unfinished parts to get all the curing chemicals/resins out of them so that they do not react with the paint
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 1,499
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Quote:
Heff |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Bummer, that does suck! Knock on wood I've been very lucky after all the welding, glass and bondo I used. Maybe it was because I did so much work other than body work like engine, electrical, etc, etc. that my tins sat around a couple of months with primer on them. I knew I didn't want the bare metal to oxidize and then when it was time to paint I primed again!
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![]() 1. Fender, Tailight, mod:http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/14-i...mount-mod.html 2. Raked, hidden caliper & R-1 mod: http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/14-i...ml#post2247607 3.Tank Fabrication: http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/10-w...ress-tank.html 4. Attention to Detail: http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/10-w...on-detail.html Last edited by rquest; 08-18-2012 at 10:30 PM. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
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![]() jarv's gallery - jarv's gallery - jarv's gallery - jarv's gallery - jarv's gallery
"The minute you settle for less than you deserve, you get even less than you settled for " |
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#7 (permalink) | ||
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Quote:
The problem goes deeper than the paint. Warmar probably wasn't aware of this happening while he was making the units. Two different painters having the same problem with air pockets in the resin is unusual. Not fish eyes nealp. After all the prep, priming, sanding, painting and lacquering, I only noticed the problem when polishing with the mop, which created some heat on the surface. If I had noticed it earlier in the proccess, I would have sorted it then. The air pocket on Warriorblue's is about 3/4" round, UNDER the gel coat. When you press the bubble down gently, it goes deeper than the paint and sinks into the unit. Baking plastic and fibreglass isn't a good idea through the painting proccess, It can cause all sorts of problems, even warping. Over the winter, I'll dig out the area, fibreglass and fill, prime, fade the black and lacquer around the area. Sounds like a step by step to follow ![]() BP1 will possibly get the same treatment done to his. Gav. |
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