PC3 -- TPS Connector vs. Wire Splice - Road Star Warrior Forum : Yamaha Star Warrior Forums

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Old 10-19-2011, 07:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default PC3 -- TPS Connector vs. Wire Splice

Hi guys. Couple questions for y'all...

I'll spare the details about my current PC3 headache, but I am sending my PC3 (usb) to Dynojet to have it "reprogrammed", in hopes that they can bring it back to life.

1. I have an older PC3 with the TPS wire splice, versus the improved TPS in-line connector. I've read a number of topics where folks have returned their older PC3 models to dynojet in order to have the improved TPS in-line connector wiring harness installed. However, dynojet is telling me that they no longer offer this solution to their customers. They can re-program my PC for me, but I am stuck with the wiring harness the way it is. So... did I just talk to the wrong guy? Anyone else work this out with Dynojet recently? I'll do the "perfect install" if necessary, but would prefer the cleaner connector to solve the issues with TPS/digital ground/etc.

2. While the dynotune tech was trying to figure out why the idle was bouncing around so much (I've never had a custom map since I bought the bike with the PC3 already installed), he left me with a frayed yellow TPS wire. I think he yanked the splice so hard, that he damaged the TPS wire! So, I'd really like to remove the 3 wires (I'm at work, so don't remember the colors), including the TPS wire from the stock connector, cut an inch off each wire (including the frayed portion of the yellow wire) and reconnect the freshly cut wires to the same stock connector. Anyone know if this is possible with these connectors? Other solutions?

I can post pics of my frayed yellow wire when I get home if necessary. The frayed portion is about an inch from the stock connector, so very little room for splices and such.

Many thanks.
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Old 10-20-2011, 12:21 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Here's a pic of my frayed TPS wire. How would you fix this? I'd really like to remove the wires from the connector, cut them back a bit and reuse the same connector. Before I destroy my connector, has anyone had any luck doing this?

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Old 10-20-2011, 12:27 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Talk to AlanH. He is an electrical wizard.
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Old 10-20-2011, 06:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks Justice.

Anyone have any experience re-using these connectors? I'm going to give it a try (kinda have to, I suppose), so interested if anyone can give me some hints to avoid destroying the connector in the process.
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Old 10-20-2011, 06:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papawheelie View Post
Thanks Justice.

Anyone have any experience re-using these connectors? I'm going to give it a try (kinda have to, I suppose), so interested if anyone can give me some hints to avoid destroying the connector in the process.
Just go for it papawheelie,

If you damage it, there are others available. Some models of the Suzuki GSX-R use them too.

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Old 10-21-2011, 08:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papawheelie View Post
Here's a pic of my frayed TPS wire. How would you fix this? I'd really like to remove the wires from the connector, cut them back a bit and reuse the same connector. Before I destroy my connector, has anyone had any luck doing this?

This molded connector comes apart just like the Hitachi connectors in the headlight housing for the handlebars. The differece is the water tight seals for the plug and wires.

My method for repairing this wire would be to extract the yellow wire only from the connector and add a new pc of 18~20ga Primary control wiring with 2-clean solder joints and double shrink wrap or single adhesive shrink wrap with a quality product.

The pins used for this connector (Molex style) require a special crimp tool (double crimping the conductor and also the insulator) as shown HERE & HERE and as i recall the rubber seal has a mechanical connection to the wire ..... nonetheless the wire can be removed from the rear by accessing the spring tab from the front of the connector with a small eye glass screw driver which is my tool of choice and pulling the wire and pin out of the connctor with the seal attached.

Good Luck
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Old 10-21-2011, 11:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thank you Alan.

I did end up cutting all 3 wires last night, and managed to neatly disassemble the plug.

However, I've been unsuccessful so far at un-crimping those contacts/pins. They clearly are not meant to be un-crimped. I've been scouring the web trying to find a replacement female plug or replacement contacts/pins, themselves. You called them "Molex style" connectors. I'll search some more when I get home. Is it actually a Hitachi connector? That will help my search also. If I can't find a replacement plug or contacts/pins, I'll consider soldering my freshly cut wire ends to the contacts and reassemble the plug using all the same parts. I have little experience soldering, which is the reason I'm leaving this option near the lower end of the list. I know it's easy.

Thank you, Caledonian.

I did go for it. And, that does indeed look like the plug I'm after. If only I could find a place on this side of the pond that sells that part. Haven't found it yet.
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Old 10-22-2011, 01:00 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Papa

I read about your issue getting the bike dyno's in another posting. Some people,,shhh.

Anyways ,, Give Ford Electronics in Fullerton CA a call,, and/or Newark Electronics.

I had to rebuild my Hall Effect Sensor in my R1100GS. Newark had the sensor and Ford had all the High Temp Silicon shielding wire and misc goodies. BMW wanted a Kabillion Dollars to fix it and I ended up spending $25 and half a day and its a lifetime fix.

Welcome to Ford Electronics.com

US - Electronic Components Distributor | Newark.com

I can't say they have what you need, but both websites reference "Molex"

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