Signal fuse keeps blowing - Road Star Warrior Forum : Yamaha Star Warrior Forums

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Old 01-08-2020, 10:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Signal fuse keeps blowing

Hi everyone, hoping someone can assist.

I've only owned my 2004 warrior one month but I am completely loving it.

Today I noticed no tach/speedo, signals, horn, etc. Found that the #2 10amp fuse was blown. Replaced it, only to have it pop as soon as I turned the key to on.

Recently, I snapped in a incandescent indicator light to prevent COD - because of front LED turn signals. Stuffing the headlamp back in was obviously tight. I think that's the issue but have my doubts.

I disconnected the indicator light, completely disconnected the turn signal wires but had the same result - fuse popped immediately.

Then I tried to unplug everything that had to do with the brown wire: left handlebar external connections, same with right, horn, rear signal cluster, removed the speedo completely. I think that's it.

Can someone give me some guidance please on next steps? I've checked the wires and don't see any obvious problems or breaks. What causes the fuse to pop? E.g. is it a condition where it might be a broken ground or the power is grounding out incorrectly?

I guess the next steps are to start to cut apart the wiring bundles and inspect every wire.

Again back to my original suspicion - I'm pretty sure this happened after I did the indicator light and shoved the wires back in the headlight bucket - but I'm not sure.

Thanks in advance for your help. I've been really enjoying this forum and learning a lot. Hopefully I can contribute to the community soon!

Thanks, Bill
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Old 01-08-2020, 10:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by nc_27587 View Post
Hi everyone, hoping someone can assist.

I've only owned my 2004 warrior one month but I am completely loving it.

Today I noticed no tach/speedo, signals, horn, etc. Found that the #2 10amp fuse was blown. Replaced it, only to have it pop as soon as I turned the key to on.

Recently, I snapped in a incandescent indicator light to prevent COD - because of front LED turn signals. Stuffing the headlamp back in was obviously tight. I think that's the issue but have my doubts.

I disconnected the indicator light, completely disconnected the turn signal wires but had the same result - fuse popped immediately.

Then I tried to unplug everything that had to do with the brown wire: left handlebar external connections, same with right, horn, rear signal cluster, removed the speedo completely. I think that's it.

Can someone give me some guidance please on next steps? I've checked the wires and don't see any obvious problems or breaks. What causes the fuse to pop? E.g. is it a condition where it might be a broken ground or the power is grounding out incorrectly?

I guess the next steps are to start to cut apart the wiring bundles and inspect every wire.

Again back to my original suspicion - I'm pretty sure this happened after I did the indicator light and shoved the wires back in the headlight bucket - but I'm not sure.

Thanks in advance for your help. I've been really enjoying this forum and learning a lot. Hopefully I can contribute to the community soon!

Thanks, Bill
To be completely transparent - The only other things I've done have been to change the oil/filter, new plugs, adjust the belt tension, refill brake fluids, etc. I'm pretty good with a wrench but I do make mistakes.

I'm only providing this in the event that it could help you help me. 🙂
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Old 01-09-2020, 12:08 AM   #3 (permalink)
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There is a sky blue off the signal 10a fuse brown that feeds rear brake tail license plate.

There is another sky blue off the headlight 15a fuse red/yellow that feeds front running lights and tach.

Where exactly did you insert the filament bulb to solve COD, and did it solve it?
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Old 01-09-2020, 02:03 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Usually, if you keep blowing a fuse as soon as you turn the key on, you have a direct short somewhere. Look for a grounded hot wire.
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Old 01-09-2020, 02:15 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by arizonawarrior View Post
There is a sky blue off the signal 10a fuse brown that feeds rear brake tail license plate.

There is another sky blue off the headlight 15a fuse red/yellow that feeds front running lights and tach.

Where exactly did you insert the filament bulb to solve COD, and did it solve it?
I did this in the headlight bucket. It was the blue and black wires. I have since removed that bulb.

It did solve it, but I always shut it off with the key now.
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Old 01-09-2020, 02:17 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Usually, if you keep blowing a fuse as soon as you turn the key on, you have a direct short somewhere. Look for a grounded hot wire.
I was guessing as much. Aside from visually seeing this...how would I find it?
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Old 01-09-2020, 02:58 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Ok. That sky blue wire is not fed by the signal fuse (brown wire) so it is not related to your trouble.

About COD protection, the coil-side of a mini-relay installed under the rider seat will last much longer, but in any event you are okay to put back some method of COD protection.

I gather your stock rear license plate light is also removed, is that right?
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Old 01-09-2020, 03:16 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Check for shorts:
Power wire to both horns.
Power wire to front and rear brake switches.
Wires at the opaque 4-wire (brown/blue/black/yellow-blue) tach coupling.
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Last edited by arizonawarrior; 01-09-2020 at 03:18 AM.
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Old 01-09-2020, 03:18 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Look under the rear fender. Your tire probably wore through the wiring there from bottoming out ect.
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Old 01-09-2020, 09:10 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arizonawarrior View Post
Check for shorts:
Power wire to both horns.
Power wire to front and rear brake switches.
Wires at the opaque 4-wire (brown/blue/black/yellow-blue) tach coupling.
Thanks, I will check this later after work. I believe I disconnected all of the plugs for those wires - except for the 2nd horn. Stupid question, where is the other horn? The plug I disconnected is on the horn that is near the left footpeg.

If you wouldn't mind, what's a good way to find a short? I believe I can use a multimeter to check for continuity - but physically that's kind of hard when working with a harness/wiring bundle that winds through the bike.

Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it. Will let you know what I find.
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