Originally Posted by ThingFish
So thats a 1/2 inch up and a 1/2 inch down so in total 1 inch slack....seems a bit too loose to me
You just push/ measure in one direction (usually up). 1/2" max. If I'm working on there friend bikes I set to 1/4" but mine I set to 1/2".
If you think it's too loose for you set it to factory specs or to 1/4".
Originally Posted by arizonawarrior
When checking belt tension you push the belt 'up' using a 10-pound gauge until it deflects the desired / specified distance. It's the same tension no matter if you deflect the belt up or down. It is not compounded.
Many do not rotate the rear wheel in order to find the spot where the belt deflects the least (tightest spot) and guage at that point to spec. I suspect not finding the tight spot and instead using 1/2" at any random spot has a chance of being close enough. But on the off chance your random spot is the loosest spot, you would tighten it and make the tightest spot even tighter. The other side of the equation if using random spot means there could be enough slack to cause slap on WOT and snap the belt. This isn't rocket science. Too tight and the bearings and pulleys and belt all suffer. Too loose and the belt breaks while riding this bike the way God intended. Belts are a massive pita to source and install on the road, I'm mystified why more people don't take advantage of a simple engineered sequence to leverage the bike's design for wear items like the drive belt. If you choose to remove the belt guard it still only takes a moment to grab a flat ruler to gauge deflection to some extent.