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I love the fairing, am thinking of doing the same. Was it an easy install? What mods if any did you have to do to make it work? I assume you just ordered the one for the Roadstar and used the Warrior mounts.

16 Posts
If anyone wants to add a "MEMPHIS SHADES" fairing- Don't order the Road Star mounting kit! Warriors have Sport Bike Tubes, the Road Star has a chrome dress up outer tube. You will be REALLY PISSED if you order the Road Star mounts! I invested a lot of time into researching proper fitment, and listen-"THE ONLY KIT THAT WORKS IS FOR THE (Honda-VTX)". The "VTX" mounting hardware is "JUST" barely right. The angle of the mounting brackets that bolt to the fairing are what is "CRITICAL", and they work, but it is a little snug. You will not have to force everything together, but if you mount your fairing brackets first to the fairing, loosely bolt and fit the fork brackets so you can move them slightly with mild force. If you have "ANY" questions, drop me an email @ [email protected]. I also rolled my "STOCK" handlebars up, loosened the controls, and rolled them back, and you have just enough room for the 15" ape hanger look and feel "WITHOUT" having to change control wires and brake lines. I also got a set of pull-back risers to lift them a little. Got them off of Ebay. They are a 1" up, and 3" back design. The set-up pulls the brake line snug, but I did not have to force it-NO STRESS. I bought a $99 set of generic hard bags which came in an exact match (Gloss Black) to my Midnite Warrior. They are mounted to a set of quick detach brackets from PACIFIC COAST STAR. I had to drill out the front mounting holes on the Sissy Bar about a half inch to allow for the bags to mount "flush" in appearance. I also had to do a little customizing on the Universal hanger bracket on the rear mount.
These Mods give me the closest feel to a STREEET GLIDE, while allowing me to "STOMP" any STOCK STREET GLIDE. I only raced one that I couldn't pass, and it was a 110" kit -Harley Stage 4 with headwork, cams, Power Commander, etc. I run a Power Commander, either BUB Ground Pounders, or the PACIFIC COAST STAR Monster Pro Pipe(Header), and a custom Aluminum intake that I designed myself to match the unique K&N filters I found. I chopped down the Header, and if I remove the baffle on the header, it has a ridiculously noticeable torque difference. I had the local HARLEY DEALER (Dillon Brothers) Dyno my bike with the BUB Ground Pounders, Power Commander(with stock MAP), and pulled "86.5 h.p. & 104 ft./lbs. of torque. If I run the Header with the baffle(which I chopped in half), then I have a little more top-end grunt. If I take it out, it has more bottom end grunt. I'm adding a 31 tooth pulley, downloading the "CASEY MAP", and re-installing the Header without baffle, and taking it back to the Harley Dealer to re-dyno. Dillon Brothers also has a "Rice Grinder" dealer right next door to their Harley dealership. When they ran the bike on the dyno, it was at an Open House-Free Dyno night. There were 13 Harley owners behind me(1st in line), when the Tech came out of the booth, he shook his head and handed me the printout. The Harley owners crowded around and got pissed.
I believe that with the pulley, new MAP, and no baffle, I may be able to pull 5 more ponies and maybe as much torque. I'm putting together the best "BUDGET WARRIOR" that I can. I am also considering the VBAK-Churchkey system, but with doing everything myself and no custom MAP, I already gained the 8-10% gain that the VBAK claims. I don't even have a "Block-Off" kit.
Also, I made my own passenger foot peg brackets that move the peg forward 1 1/2", and down 3". My Wife "Greatly" appreciates this. It puts her in a Harley riding position. Her feet are still plenty clear of the Header.

* I am no technician and have "NO" tuning experience. I just researched a little, and used common sense. In order to allow Horsepower to breed, use this as a thumbnail rule-"More air in, more air out". Your Horse has to breath. Don't just put a big air kit on without changing how the Beast exhales. It all has to have somewhere to go quickly after detonation. Unless you have a Turbo. Which I am considering. Being a Welder, and Steel Fabricator, I am kicking it around. Again, I am "NOT" a trained technician. I combine common sense with what the "SENIOR" members of this forum have learned by doing it themselves also. I AM "NO" Churkey or Patrick!!! Just a Warrior Lover on a serious "BUDGET". I'm not the Rich guy who owns 3 Warrior-1 for show, 1 for go, and 1 to "GO"! If we all help one another out, we all progress together!

**Anyone with questions or helpful hints, can email me @ [email protected].

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