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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
*Rules and restrictions apply. Winner will get one beer of their choosing... provided they live near kansas city. Must be 21 to enter, void where prohibited, taxed, or too far away to show up. Prizes cannot be exchanged for cash or transfered to other contestants.


er... ok so Someone want to tell me how my engine is doing here? Click on the pics to get full size images. Front on left, rear on right. Then next is rear, finally front pair. Oh and I put them in my pockets when I went back upstairs that's why they look all hairy.




From Read my plugs!From Read my plugs!From Read my plugs!From Read my plugs!
 

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looking at the bottom 2 pics


lean, lean


a little lean, looks good





now the real experts can chime in
 

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Front is spot on.


Add 2 points to the CO for the rear cylinder, CO1 in the ECU then check again.


Suggest some neverseize on the plug threads.
 

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What do I get if I teach yah how to read your own **** plugs?


FYI: BevMo has on-line order and pickup so distance from Kansas City is not an issue.
 

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Front and rear are not right. With the pipes and what ever air kit you are running you either need a PCIII, or a Dyno tune if you have one. That's my read, all wrong!
 

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Like everyone else:3/4 look pretty lean.... You want them to have a nice brownish color too them like the plug on the right in the very bottom photo.


All my plugs looked like your others (lean) when I took my "water heater off". Had never done the ECU adjustment.... I bumped up the ECU by +6 on both cylinders and turned out that was WAY too much. I'm at +3 with a open tip on stock headers.


Like Churchkey said: +2 on the rear cylindershould be good.But seeingthat only one plug is good on the front.... I'd try a +1 on the front to see if you can get both plugs looking good. Can always back down if it's too rich.
 

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it has been a nice reading on this thread. from that.... being the picture here my picture and not having a power comander, i should just add +2 or +3 to each of my cilinders? they are in the order of the bike, front ones to the left, rear ones to the right, upper ones are the ones in the right side and lower ones, the left side...


or maybei just connect my carbtuner and syncronize those boddies...
 

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look fine to me,
the flash from the camera will lighten them up.


Mine is a bottle of MILLER................cheers
 

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Rears are lean.... I'd bet you'll read a temp. difference at the headder pipe as well.... Leanburns a bit hotter.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The pictures came are pretty close to real life... I use macro mode on my SD1000, 2inches away, diffused flash, and a dark background (crown royal bag) to assist the camera in aquiring the appropriate light metering. I ended up using manual light metering and bumped down -1and1/3 stop but let the camera choose what ISO speed. :-D (Sister is a photographer lol) The bike idles incredibly smooth now

Thanks for the input everyone. I do have aftermarket VH pipes(4000+ mi ago) and recently (150mi ago) went BAK. I'll bump the front +1 and rear +2 and check them in a few weeks.<br/><br/>Anyone near KC is welcome to grab a beer with me, or as much homebrew as they want at my apt if you like beer that'll kick you in the nuts.
 

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going by the first (top) picture exabrial, they look fine. I had my plugs out last weekend for the first time after fitting the V&H bigshots, Fuelpak andoriginal Yam filtersjust out of curiosity. Right enough, the bottom circle of thread was black and the core was a light tan. Left the ECU at base settings and set Fuelpak code to 2010 as instructed. It goes very sweet, ticks over steady and pulls like a train. No flat spots andvery littleback firing.The reason I went for Fuelpak was ease of use, a lot cheaper and I won't be doingany other mods now.


Good luck with the settings.
 
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