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I just read back through all my replies. I want to apologize to everyone. To be honest I never expected that I would get replies so fast. I just posted my question with intent of checking the next day but I ended up sidetracked with work and I haven't even really messed with it much more until today.

I have been trying to find a short with no luck. I just removed the LAS and cleaned it because my thought process was....

Maybe the LAS could be sticking and since it is mounted right against the horn. Possibly the vibrations from the horn is shaking it loose. Turns out that it was not sticking.

I have not ridden in a couple weeks. I'm hoping for time this weekend.
No worries. I feel like there was definitely a lull in recent years with reduced activity but that seems to be a bit less lately and I'm seeing replies come much quicker. Hoping the trend continues, especially as we get more new members that have just gotten into the Warrior lifestyle.
 

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Yes. The wires run through the bars. I checked all I can see with no cuts or brakes.
I'd be super leery of the corners and I bet there are some intermittent issues with some wires shorting (or breaking) out in there. I hate to suggest it, but I'd try to pull the wires out and do some flex testing to ensure there's no breakage in the wires. I can almost guarantee it's either in there or where the wires come out and go into the rest of the bike (either headlight or harness). There's possibly some flexing from the bars to the bike and/or some movement back and forth in the bars from the wires being too tight so steering pulls the wires tighter in the bars causing insulation to get rubbed off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Super interesting. Honestly sounds like a loose wire somewhere. The horn fix is definitely a new one, though.

I had a brake light/turn signal acting up that was intermittent and I was never able to replicate it or fix it. All I knew was that everything would work fine when I was sitting still and my engine was off. Turned out, I had a loose connection in my running lights connection (blue wire) in the headlight. Spent about 3 hours going over everything I could, looking at schematics, testing... until finally, I could replicate the issue (and correct it) by inserting and removing my front left signal bulb... that got me onto the running light circuit and thinking about a loose connection (engine vibes causing the issue). Sure enough, a simple crimp on a loose connector fixed it!

Maybe something similar for you as well. A loose connection. A creased wire that opens up (breaks connection) with heavy engine vibrations. The horn may just be coincidental, but not causal.

If you have internally wired bars, I'd start there, specifically on your kill switch circuit. Also check and recheck all your grounds as well as your connections in your ECU. Might need to open up your control boxes on your handle bars to see if there is any kind of corrosion or other types of disasters hidden in there. Always look closely at any and all circuits, connections, and insulation to ensure it all looks to be in good order. Clean anything that looks off and use some dielectric grease in all connections you pull apart.

Let us know what you find.
Kill switch was the first place I looked. Everything inside the control box looks correct. I thought about deleting the switch all together since I never use it. Maybe the switch is going bad and hitting the horn just changes current enough to make a difference???
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I'd be super leery of the corners and I bet there are some intermittent issues with some wires shorting (or breaking) out in there. I hate to suggest it, but I'd try to pull the wires out and do some flex testing to ensure there's no breakage in the wires. I can almost guarantee it's either in there or where the wires come out and go into the rest of the bike (either headlight or harness). There's possibly some flexing from the bars to the bike and/or some movement back and forth in the bars from the wires being too tight so steering pulls the wires tighter in the bars causing insulation to get rubbed off.
I got rid of front turn signals. I will double check and make sure there is no contact there. I will pull the headlight now and check all the connections there.
 

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Kill switch was the first place I looked. Everything inside the control box looks correct. I thought about deleting the switch all together since I never use it. Maybe the switch is going bad and hitting the horn just changes current enough to make a difference???
Definitely maybe. I'd check the wires, though.

Long story but I was troubleshooting an issue on a piece of equipment that moves around in three directions. There was an issue that ONLY occurred when the machine was at a specific height. If it were higher or lower, everything was smooth. Turned out to be a break in the conductor inside the insulation due to the wire being flexed in a cable chain. At a certain height, the wire was flexed so the conductor would cause an open circuit and the issue occurred. Lower or higher and the wire was straightened out and no strain was put on it so equipment operated as expected.

Do some testing with your bike sitting still by having it running and then move your handle bars back and forth while revving your engine. Do it slowly so it has a chance to actually have the issue instead of moving through the right spot so fast the engine doesn't cut. Then see what's moving while you go through that spot.
 

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Awesome news. Setting here talking with you guys letting her idle. She decided to stall for me. I did get a video. Trying to figure out how to post it.
Upload it to Youtube. Copy the link. Hit those three little buttons down below and select Media. Paste the link and post reply.

Font Screenshot Software Darkness Multimedia
 

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That definitely worked!! And that's absolutely bonkers!!

I'll look through the wiring schematic and see if there's anything that makes sense there. See if you can do the running while turning method to cause it to die.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
That definitely worked!! And that's absolutely bonkers!!

I'll look through the wiring schematic and see if there's anything that makes sense there. See if you can do the running while turning method to cause it to die.
I tried that. Nothing. I sat down to check replies and it stalled. Started it back up and let it run for about 10-15 while I uploaded the video. No stall
 

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Have you tested using your brake lever (triggering your brake lights) to restart instead of your horn?

I only ask because it seems like you have a mild case of CoD (Click of Death) that is being resolved by opening a path to ground through the horn circuit. The brakes might do the same thing.

Have you removed your license plate light?
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
It's an aftermarket brake light but it was on the bike when I bought it. I haven't tried the brake lever to restart but the first few times I did use the brakes while pulling over. Next time it happens that will be the first thing I try.
 

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Gotta run to take care of my daughter for the evening, but I'm certain it's a residual voltage in the system, causing your bike to think the engine is still running even though it's not. Then, when you drain that voltage to ground, your bike realizes it's NOT running so it re-energizes the starter circuit. Every tried to hit the starter while your bike is running? I don't think it'll let you.

More testing and analysis. My guess (or request maybe) would be for @alanh to maybe chime in on this given his extensive knowledge of our electrical systems. Also, I think your bike being an '02 is significant as I believe '04's and later have this worked out so it won't happen.

As for WHY it's happening... that's still TBD. There's an intermittent short/break somewhere, though.
 

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Open the horn button box and find out what is cross-wired or damaged. Post pictures as suggested earlier (please revisit) so we can try to identify modifications and repairs that might point to a path.
 
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