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Discussion Starter #1
Will the stock 33 tooth pulley for a 03 fit an 07 with modification ?


And if so what is needed to be done.
 

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The stock pulley is 32 teeth not 33 !! Some are using the Roadstar 33 tooth pulley as a modification but it requires some machining to work.


 

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bruce59 said:
The stock pulley is 32 teeth not 33 !! Some are using the Roadstar 33 tooth pulley as a modification but it requires some machining to work.


yeah, what the heck was i thinking???? the pulley will fit but like bruce said it does require machining one side to clear the tranfercase housing, not a big deal though as i did the swap last year and had some local guys who repair beer can making machines put it on a lathe for me , didnt cost a penny as they were excited about helping me out with my fat tire mod that i was doing at the time
 

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Question, does this mod lower top end speeds or raise them? Sorry, I'm so tired I'm almost brain dead tonight. Rode 763 miles in 29 hours this weekend and still recovering. Thanks!
 

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Here's a lot of what you need to know about thefront pulley options:


Drive Pulley - Front-to-Rear Ratio: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/24106.aspx


Drive Pulley - RoadStar 1.5" Mod: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/115394.aspx


Drive Pulley - Front - 31-Tooth: (Steel 31-tooth pulley better than Aluminum)
Drive Pulley - Front - 31-Tooth: (bit faster between signals, ~3% lower top end)
Drive Pulley - Front - 31-Tooth: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/111958.aspx
Drive Pulley - Front - 31-Tooth: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/19311.aspx
Drive Pulley - Front - 31-Tooth: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/24515.aspx
Drive Pulley - Front - 31-tooth: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/120683.aspx
Drive Pulley - Front - 32-tooth: (OEM stock)(made from steel)
Drive Pulley - Front - 33 Tooth: (bit slower between signals, ~3% higher top end)
Drive Pulley - Front - 33-Tooth: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/12159.aspx
Drive Pulley - Front - 33-Tooth: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/118034.aspx
Drive Pulley - Front - 33-Tooth: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/26037.aspx
Drive Pulley - Front - 33-Tooth: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/27101.aspx
Drive Pulley - Front - 33-Tooth: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/28873.aspx
 

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Arizona Warrior said:
I was thinking its better to machine off the inside (the side against the bike) is that right?


southboundchicken said:
WAKESTAR said:
Does it matter witch side of pulley is machined ?
no
actually i went back to edit my reply and this crappy software( or maybe it was my crappy computer) wouldnt let me do it. the side that faces the trans case is the side that needs to be machinced as it will hit the casing in a bad kinda way, if my memory serves me correct ( but it is starting to wonder a bit
the pulley will slip onto the shaft either way but the machined side MUST face inward
 

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Discussion Starter #16
just the lip ?


what about the pulley width itself does any material have to be removed to make it narrower ?
 

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southboundchicken said:
WAKESTAR said:
I purchased a 33 tooth front pully off a 99 1600 Roadstar. Will it just bolt on ?
not without having the lip machined off
The Road* pulley is symetrical out of the box! Remove 1-flange ring that isstitch welded and have the step machined1/8" (.125") ..... When properly machined the pulley teeth willnot be cut as shown here: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/24977/367714.aspx#367714
 

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WAKESTAR said:
I'm not able to open the forun link you sent !!!!


can you emial to [email protected] ?

AlanH said:
Thu, Mar 29 2007 1:33 PM


I recently installed the 33T Road* OEM steel pulley on my bike with the 70T Road* 1 1/2" wide pulley, 1 1/2" Panther Belt and 240 Metzler tire




I did 90 miles total at elevated speeds on my way down to Phats to pickup the wide belt and had the 33T frt pulley and stock rear wheel, pulley, belt and new Metzler 130/70HR18 front tire.

Really didn't notice a big difference as i was focusing on the newly mounted tire, frt bearings, rotors etc on the chromed wheel that i had assembled




I now have nearly 900 miles on the completed mod and still haven't got a handle on the mileage or speedo error.




One thing i have noticed is that i'm not looking for that elusive 6th gear any longer
and i'll find myself riding in 4th on the freeway
. The changes have affected the light to light performance slightly, but that's not where i'm at





I'm not the pioneer of this mod but i can say without a shadow of doubt that you need only machine one side of the pulley that faces the case...nada mas...

FACT: the OEM 33T Road* '99~03' frt pulley must be machined to fit our bike




Taken from this post:http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=49007
Here's another topic that i added my .02 :http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=49638

Absolutely....the rear flange is removed and the step should be machined 1/8" to clear the middle shaft case gussets.






The 33T Road* Pulley Flange just touches the Stay Bracket so i removed 1/32" mat'l if that with a Dremel disc
The flange sits behind the stay bracket when assembled to the middle shaft. This course of action isn't required
if you choose to remove the bracket






*** Stock Road* pulley shown belowbefore machining ***



33TRoad* Pulley - Flange Ring removed - before machining .125" off face



quote:

Originally posted by longdrives

If I get the RStar 33 tooth, part # 4WM-17651-00-00, will it need to be shaved if I am still using the stock pully cover and insert? I searched but the thickness reduction of the pulley seemed to be related to the Yammi pulley case set.
 
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