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2003 Yamaha Road Star Warrior XV1700
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I was starting to piece out my vbak and realized I have a 3d printer and can print nylon and ABS, so i was thinking... why cant I just print out parts of the VBAK the OEM airbox and intake is ABS as far as I can tell so if I printed it out of ABS/ASA it should be able to withstand to the same temps, and with proper post processing i shouldnt have to worry all that much about it falling apart.

I'm able to design stuff up in cad... but I've got no experience when it comes to airflow and intakes and all that, so is there anything i should keep in mind when designing the parts?

I believe that the inner walls should be as smooth as possible so that the air flows properly, but is there anything else I'm missing? Also is there anything i should add like venturis, or a connecting tube between the two intakes or something like that? I was thinking of plumbing back in the air intake temp sensors and potentially the hoses for the LCV into the intake runners so that they can still do their job as intended if that makes any difference

i have proper steel header pipe on the way, but something is just making me wanna print them, so yeah how bad of an idea is this?
 

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'05 Midnight
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There's only one way to know... Keep us posted!

Also, I like the idea of getting the intake temp sensors back into the actual intakes. I wonder if that would actually make a difference.
 

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2003 Yamaha Road Star Warrior XV1700
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
There's only one way to know... Keep us posted!

Also, I like the idea of getting the intake temp sensors back into the actual intakes. I wonder if that would actually make a difference.
Im wondering the same thing, in theory the intake temp sensors being mounted near the intakes shouldnt make too much of a difference but when there is that air flow around it, it could have a cooling effect,
My thought is they wouldnt put them on for no reason its not like its a selling point on the bike so it must be part of the tuning somehow.


After doing some digging it looks like the sensors are a big part of the tuning so i think it would be best to keep them in the intake and maybe even insulate them against the heat. Going by what some say that moving the intake sensors has helped the bike run better in hot weather and in stop and go, well I'm in phoenix so I got both of those out the wazoo. it seems like this is something I'm gonna have to try. Maybe even mount the third sensor somewhere thats out of the engines heat too so that it gets true ambient instead of hot ambient.

Current idea is to mount the sensors on the outer part of the tube with a shield of sorts that keeps the rising hot air off of the sensor, but allows air to flow around the top half of it. Im also now thinking of adding a sorta scoop from the front and up and over the engine and into that area. to get more cooler air into there, but thats step 8.

(also i edit and add info/thoughts a lot...partly as notes partly so that others can follow my adhd thought process better lol)
 

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There are no intake temperature sensors there is a single ambient air temp sender.
Each throttle body has a small hose that connects to the manifold pressure sensors (MAP) they can be mounted anywhere that is convenient they are not affected by temperature changes.
System is basic speed density each cylinder is tuned separately sharing air, cyl & oil temp parameters.
Do not jumper the throttle bodies or hoses together treat the unit as 2 separate cylinders connected to a common crankshaft.
Luck with the 3-D
 
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2003 Yamaha Road Star Warrior XV1700
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There are no intake temperature sensors there is a single ambient air temp sender.
Each throttle body has a small hose that connects to the manifold pressure sensors (MAP).
System is basic speed density each cylinder is tuned separately sharing air, cyl & oil temp parameters.
Do not jumper the throttle bodies or hoses together treat the unit as 2 separate cylinders connected to a common crankshaft.
Luck with the 3-D
For some reason I thought the maps were temp sensors, but map does make a lot more sense. Good to know I'll keep them seperate.

It will be a few weeks before I make much real progress on this but I'm hoping it will at least be interesting once it's done.
 

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Printed ABS has different properties than hot extruded, right? The surface needs to be as 'shiny' and slick. One issue with some extruded ABS is bends have an internal narrowing, so the air comes out of the bend with a bit of turbulence. Printers can adjust that out so the bend is round all the way. You can size the filter end for RC1290's. You can size the venturi end for the actual venturi (using conventional rubber-clamp adapters that can be shorter and still grip).

Plus, the two Air Intake Sensors (AIS-1 and AIS-2) have a dedicated vacuum hose on them. They are not intended to be inside the venturi. They can be mounted nearby. The third Air Sensor is the Ambient, it has no hose. Also mounts nearby.

On the other thing. If you decide to run pipes between intake tracts, put one left-to-right and an identical one right-to-left in order to equalize and cancel out the earth's rotational forces. Reverse the setup in Southern hemisphere. 😜
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Printed ABS has different properties than hot extruded, right? The surface needs to be as 'shiny' and slick. One issue with some extruded ABS is bends have an internal narrowing, so the air comes out of the bend with a bit of turbulence. Printers can adjust that out so the bend is round all the way. You can size the filter end for RC1290's. You can size the venturi end for the actual venturi (using conventional rubber-clamp adapters that can be shorter and still grip).

Plus, the two Air Intake Sensors (AIS-1 and AIS-2) have a dedicated vacuum hose on them. They are not intended to be inside the venturi. They can be mounted nearby. The third Air Sensor is the Ambient, it has no hose. Also mounts nearby.

On the other thing. If you decide to run pipes between intake tracts, put one left-to-right and an identical one right-to-left in order to equalize and cancel out the earth's rotational forces. Reverse the setup in Southern hemisphere. 😜
It does have different properties but its more a difference in strength due to the layers not in the melting temps, but its still strong enough for my purposes, plus I can sand it out really easily and then use acetone to essentially smooth the surfaces so they are perfectly smooth . I've done that in the past and made a reflective surface. Took a while but it worked lol. Plus if the abs fails, I still have other options i can use Nylon or something, or remelt the parts so they build up strength near what non 3d printed parts would be.

Yeah that's part of what's making me want to try this, I can make the bends be consistent all the way around pretty easily, and make any weird curves i would need a lot easier than I could otherwise to position the filters any way i would want,

I haven't fully removed the airbox yet so I'm mostly going off what i can find in parts diagrams and stuff to get an idea of what I got to do, so that information is great, thank you.
 
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