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I have a 31T front pulley, what is a good combo for the rear? Is the stock 70T the only option? I don't know quite how the relationship works with the front and rear pulley, if anyone could dumb it down for me I would appreciate it.
 

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Do some searching on the forum. There are several threads on the subject.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

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Read through this thread thoroughly, lots of good information about running a 31T front, 65T rear, as well as the 33T front 65T rear.

Basically, More teeth on front pulley equals more top end (less rpm at speed), less torque off line.
and the less teeth in the rear equals more top end (less rpm at speed), less torque off the line.
Vise versa if you add teeth to rear or reduce teeth in front.
You can think of this like bicycle gearing. Bigger ring in front, harder to pedal. Smaller ring in rear, harder to pedal. and vise versa.
 

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Re: 65t Rear Pulley

I did the 65 tooth rear pulley, 31 tooth front pully and 128 Tooth Gates 1-1/8" Rear Drive Belt. Perfect combo of power through all the gears and lower RPMs at higher speeds. Only regret is putting off this mod as long as I did!
Many speak of the 65t, but I haven’t seen a specific bike to search for. Just saying a Harley touring… isn’t specific enough to just drop $100 or so, and go through the labor to find out the one I bought won’t work. Can anyone be more specific on this pulley search?
 

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“ most” is not specific.
Well Scotty I think it is time for you to do some "more" research yourself.
All those rear pullies will fit as the center hole is fine but the bolt holes need to be opened up just a hair to 12mm, you know Japanese bike.
Now the width is what you need to be conscious of as there are pullies for 1" to 1-1/2". The 1-1/8" pullies measure a little more than 1-1/4" allowing some adjustment. Sorry but you are gonna have to read some more and make a decision. There is plenty of info out there and Bladerunr gave you some option and has put out some go info there since he has some this himself.
 

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Well Scotty I think it is time for you to do some "more" research yourself.
All those rear pullies will fit as the center hole is fine but the bolt holes need to be opened up just a hair to 12mm, you know Japanese bike.
Now the width is what you need to be conscious of as there are pullies for 1" to 1-1/2". The 1-1/8" pullies measure a little more than 1-1/4" allowing some adjustment. Sorry but you are gonna have to read some more and make a decision. There is plenty of info out there and Bladerunr gave you some option and has put out some go info there since he has some this himself.
This still doesn’t answer the question. If you don’t know, you should just say so. Research that Ive done on here doesn’t give specifics, can be a waste of time and money. If I’m missing the correct response, please tell me where. On a chance it was the correct pulley I bought one a year or so ago. I could make it fit, but it was a 61t. Please don’t take me wrong, I’m not meaning to sound like a jerk, I’m just hoping to zero in on one or two specific bikes. Without specifics it can send you out on a wild goose chase. I’ve noticed many times on this forum, a rider would ask a question and there would be many responses that were just plain not specific enough. If members don’t know they should not respond. It‘s as if they just have to say something, and I say this isn’t helping anyone. Options that aren’t specific lands a member with a pulley they can’t use, and we shouldn’t do that to another member. I have a bid on one now, but it’s still on a chance. If I get it and it works, I will have a specific bike to point others to. We should refrain from answering questions without answers.
 

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This still doesn’t answer the question. If you don’t know, you should just say so. Research that Ive done on here doesn’t give specifics, can be a waste of time and money. If I’m missing the correct response, please tell me where. On a chance it was the correct pulley I bought one a year or so ago. I could make it fit, but it was a 61t. Please don’t take me wrong, I’m not meaning to sound like a jerk, I’m just hoping to zero in on one or two specific bikes. Without specifics it can send you out on a wild goose chase. I’ve noticed many times on this forum, a rider would ask a question and there would be many responses that were just plain not specific enough. If members don’t know they should not respond. It‘s as if they just have to say something, and I say this isn’t helping anyone. Options that aren’t specific lands a member with a pulley they can’t use, and we shouldn’t do that to another member. I have a bid on one now, but it’s still on a chance. If I get it and it works, I will have a specific bike to point others to. We should refrain from answering questions without answers.
This is the best info I know of that is still available. Read every post before moving on. The following linked thread is packed, plus has links to others. Notice info about the Warrior's stock pulley. Use it to determine fitment. Avoid any aluminum pulley. The Warrior eats those as a snack.

Ref:
 

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Well Scotty it seems like you want a bolt on piece which is not out there. It seems like you want someone to ask the questions and make the purchase for you. Sorry ain't going to happen. If you would have read what I wrote then you would know what to look for. "Most" of those pullies will work with minor work. If you ask the ebay seller some questions then it might make the purchase feel better. I am also sure this has been done by many others and it wasn't rocket science and the 61 tooth pulley you bought....did it fit? If so then I guess you have your answer if it didn't what happened?
 

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Well Scotty it seems like you want a bolt on piece which is not out there. It seems like you want someone to ask the questions and make the purchase for you. Sorry ain't going to happen. If you would have read what I wrote then you would know what to look for. "Most" of those pullies will work with minor work. If you ask the ebay seller some questions then it might make the purchase feel better. I am also sure this has been done by many others and it wasn't rocket science and the 61 tooth pulley you bought....did it fit? If so then I guess you have your answer if it didn't what happened?
I guess, I'm gathering from the replies, that the Harley pullies must basically all fit. When looking for a 1 1/8" pulley, they seem to come up as 883's. In the past, when I requested more info on the pulley I bought, the seller couldn't answer. Yamaha near me couldn't answer any questions. It's really kinda pitiful how little people know about the parts they're selling, as well as people in parts depts that act like "custom" is another language. The 61t I bought would fit, but I decided I didn't like its look well enough to buy a new belt. I had to drill it out...I realize this is custom work and I'm not afraid of that, shoot that's what makes it fun. Anyway, I'm searching for a 68t to go with my 33t, maybe I can use the stock belt still. I was really pressing to get a specific harley, and hope I wasn't too much of a jerk about it. I had an auto accident a few years back with a brain injury and since then I've caught myself being a jerk more than once. Thanks for keeping it civil
 

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You are correct and especially about ebay. Too many people just selling stuff that have no idea and that is why I always tell people to educate yourself as you probably know more than the Ebay guy. In regards to your quest, hit up Sandytows as he has that set up exactly and can maybe help you a bit further. Also what puts a spin on things when people are selling harley pullies is they come into contact with Buell pullies which are even narrower. Also some sellers measure the width never accounting for a little adjustment movement of the belt. Good luck on your journey and no worries...no harm no foul. Plus I am usually the hothead.
 

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The 33/68 will work with a stock belt.
My 68t came from a sportster that's all I can say really. I bought my setup from another member "stellmon". The mounting holes needed to be drilled out and I think I have a small spacer in there to align the pulleys. Also.I had to grind my swing arm just a little to stop it from rubbing under aggressive riding.
It's been on there for 4 or 5 years now and I don't remember much else. Maybe search my post and you can find some info.
Or try an advanced search for threads that stellmon and I participated in and you might find his for sale listing.
The advanced search is a great tool but it takes some practice and it's best used on desktop/laptop and not mobile. Alan H has some great discussions about pulleys too.
But I'll be honest if I had to do it again I would probably not do the 68 and just stick with the 33/70.
This is my current setup.

 
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Just to clarify, the reason I went with the 33/68 was to lower my final drive ratio. I was looking for a 33t and Stellmon had the 33/68 set for sale so that's what I got. While I did gain something I don't know that it's worth the effort doing 33/68 versus just the 33. A better solution for final drive change would be the 33/65 but that requires changing the belt to slightly shorter.
If you're looking for aesthetics the 68T gives you lots of aftermarket options if you make are willing to mod the pulley some, but personally I like the yamaha factory pulley especially chromed.
 

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Heftysmurf, Scotty To Hotty & Sandytows,

It’s good to read members communicating like adults and offering advice even though it may need explaining more than once, Scotty now has the knowledge.

good to see 👍👍👍
 

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Just to clarify, the reason I went with the 33/68 was to lower my final drive ratio. I was looking for a 33t and Stellmon had the 33/68 set for sale so that's what I got. While I did gain something I don't know that it's worth the effort doing 33/68 versus just the 33. A better solution for final drive change would be the 33/65 but that requires changing the belt to slightly shorter.
If you're looking for aesthetics the 68T gives you lots of aftermarket options if you make are willing to mod the pulley some, but personally I like the yamaha factory pulley especially chromed.
I can tell I have the 33t by how the clutch reacts, that’s just one tooth. Going 2 more teeth I feel is riding the clutch to its max. Just my opinion, but going to a 65t is really giving the clutch a hard work out. I‘ve had 2 Honda VTX1800s and I installed the 1300 final drives on them. That was also just one tooth, but worked out nicely. Anyway, thanks for sharing your experience with this subject matter.
 

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70-2 is proportionally less difference than 32+1.
With a few upgrades rhe warrior clutch can handle serious torque. Popular mods the the Barnett pressure plate and the 2or3 full plate mod. Both of which I have. I can still lift the front wheel if I'm not careful.
The 1 1/8" belt becomes the weak link.

If you're really looking to make the gears taller the 33/65 is a great change with about 10% effect on final drive you just have to change the belt length.
 

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Aslo Scotty if you have never had the front pulley cover off it is worth checin gthe front nut for proper tightness and if you do have a 33 tooth front pulley it will have a lip on one side and a milled/flat inside. See pic
 

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