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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I’ll make this short and to the point so it’s easy to follow lol.

Tools needed-

Open end wrench (almost any size)
5mm Allen/hex wrench.
Ratchet.
10mm socket.
Torque wrench (preferably to read inch pounds but foot pounds will work)
Gasket scraper (a razor works)
Rags
Drip pan (optional)

For the 3 plate mod additional tools will be needed.
Needle nose pliers.
Hook pick.(paper clip works but harder to use)
Magnet(optional)

Torque specs-

Clutch cover allen head bolts - 7.4ftlbs (86inlbs):5mm Allen wrench.
Pull arm bolt 8.7ftlbs (104inlbs):5mm Allen wrench.
Pressure plate bolts 5.8Ftlbs (70inlbs):10mm Socket.

Clutch cover bolts, sizes and location click link below -
Clutch Cover(Crank Case Cover)Bolt Size/Location
Also check out -
Pressure Plate Spring/Bearing info usage-Stock/Barnett.html


Parts needed--

2 plate, Full Friction plate mod-
Qty2) 26H-16307-01-00 http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-26H-16307-01-00.html

3 plate mod-
Qty3) 26H-16307-01-00 http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-26H-16307-01-00.html

NOTE- The 3 plate full friction plate mod it the same as the 2 plate mod but has even better clutch grab and it also reduces the clutch lever pull amount needed to disengage your clutch it also reduced the amount of force needed to pull the clutch lever. This is because you remove the Clutch Boss Spring that makes you have to pull the lever further and harder to completely disengage your clutch plates.

Crank case gasket- 5PX-15451-00-00 Or 5VN-15451-00-00 (Not always needed but get it anyways)
5PX-15451-00-00 YAMAHA GASKET, CRANKCASE CO
NOTE- If you can remove the cover and not damage the gasket you can Apply a gasket maker silicon or get away with just bolting the cover back on as I have done over 6 times with no leaks.

Barnett Clutch Spring Conversion SR2- 511-90-10002
http://www.pacificcoaststar.com/pcs/road-star-rs-warrior-clutch.htm
Yamaha Spring Conversion Kit

NOTE- Converts stock diaphragm spring to six coil springs. Provides a more progressive, controllable engagement.
The Barnett Clutch conversion sr2 isn't needed with the Full plate mods But it is a good mod for the bike either by its self or with the Full friction plate mods...
The Barnett Pressure Plate is not needed with the Full friction plate mods but is a very good mod on its own or with the full plate mods.
The Barnett Clutch Conversion SR2 is used to replace your stock Pressure plate/Diaphragm spring. It’s purpose it to give an Even and Stronger pressure to your clutch then your stock Pressure plate/Diaphragm spring and to reduce clutch slip.


Barnett springs-
Gold: 501-75-06005 (MT-05) = 75lb at 1-inch (Gold is standard and come with the Barnett pressure plate kit)
Green: 501-82-06023 (MT23) = 82lb at 1-inch
Red: 501-99-06091 (MT91) = 99lb at 1-inch
http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BARNETT-SPRINGKITS&CartID

Scroll down to find the part number and order 1 set or copy and search the part number to find through another company.

NOTE- Barnett Green Springs are to give even stronger pressure to your clutch then the stock Gold springs the Barnett Pressure plate comes with. Red springs are the strongest.
If you get the Green or Red springs It might be a good idea to upgrade your clutch cable to a Barnett cable. Motion Pro cables aren't as good as Barnett.
Barnett Clutch cable 02"-03" Yamaha 1700 Road Star Warrior (2002-2003) - Barnett Tool & Engineering
Barnett Clutch cable 04"-09" Yamaha 1700 Road Star Warrior (2004-2009) - Barnett Tool & Engineering
Clutch and throttle cables come in Black, Stainless and Platinum so look through these links for which you want.
I had links to order from 3rd parts companies but they kept changing their links. So look through these links and copy the part numbers and search the web for better prices.


((Optional
Stock OEM Friction plates- 26H-16324-00-00 http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-26H-16324-00-00.html ))
NOTE- OEM Yamaha Friction plates are the best on the market for our bikes.


There are 2 Full Friction plate mods. The 2 Half plate to full plate mod and the more extent 3 Half plate to full plate mod.
Here is an example of what a half and full plate is. The half plate has less material.




First off. You don't have to drain your oil If you can lean your bike over on to a wall or post or something that can support the bike.



Another thing you don't have to always do is replace your Crank case cover gasket but if you have to here is the part - 5PX-15451-00-00 5PX-15451-00-00 YAMAHA GASKET, CRANKCASE CO .
I have had my cover 5 or more times with the original gasket and have No oil leaks.

Remove the allen head bolts from the smaller cover on the clutch cover to the left. (There's a bolt beneath near the kick stand hinge that's sometimes missed).


The small cover sometimes sticks and has to be pryed apart. This can be done from below the cover as you'll feel a gap. Use a small wrench or screwdriver.

After removing all allen head bolts from the clutch cover find the notch on the top behind where the small cover was and use a wrench to pop the clutch cover apart if the cover doesn't separate as in the pic below.



You can set your cover on a block or hang it up so you don't have to completely remove it.



Here is a stock Diaphragm spring and Pressure plate.



Behind the Pressure plate.



OK, Lets get started on the Full Friction plate mods. I don't have pics for everything but this will help.

There are a total of 3 half friction plates and 2 are easier to do and the 3rd is a bit more work to get to but not hard.

You don't have to do the 3rd plate since only replacing the first 2 are the most common to replace and work great.The 3rd one is a new mod that I started as far as I know.
By replacing the 3rd half friction plate in the damper assembly you will have a difference as how the clutch feels and engages as of a more sudden engagement and a shorter clutch lever pull to release the clutch.

Parts needed to do the 2 and 3 Full friction plate mod – 2 or 3 plates 26H-16307-01-00

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-26H-16307-01-00.html

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To do the 2 plate Full friction plate mod you will remove each clutch and friction plate in order and set down as removed.

Remove and toss the 2 Clutch Boss springs marked #8 in the Photo below.
Remove the 2 half Friction plates marked #9 and replace with the 2 full Friction plates.


Re install on order removed.

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To do the 3 plate Full friction plate mod you will remove each clutch and friction plate in order and set down as removed.


Remove and toss the 2 Clutch Boss springs marked #8 in the bottom portion of the Photo below.
Remove the 2 half Friction plates marked #9 and replace with the 2 full Friction plates.

Now on to the Damper assembly,
With all the clutch/friction plates removed you have to remove the damper assembly. It’s kind of a pain but remove the Clutch boss ring (It’s a wire ring) marked #11 in the Top portion of the pic below.
After you remove the wire clip #11 you can remove the rest of the damper componants #’s 12,9,13and 14 in the pic.
The #14 Seat plate can be a pain to remove and was best removed with a paper clip for me.
Keep #12 clutch plate and replace #9 half plate with the 3rd Full friction plate.
Toss away everything else its not needed anymore.





You may need and want to use picks like these hooks to remove the #11 wire clip and #14 Seat plate.(Needle nose pliers may help remove the wire clip) or a magnet.



Remove the final piece for the 3 Full plate mod, #14 Seat plate sitting way back inside with the hooks, paper clip or a good magnet. But don't scratch up the surface for the friction plate.




All these parts will be left over with the 3 Full friction plate mod in the 2 pics below. You will not need any of them and can trash them.



Re install on order removed.

Barnett Clutch Spring Conversion/ Pressure plate.
Part # 511-90-10002
http://www.pacificcoaststar.com/pcs/rs_warrior_clutch.htm





Installing the Barnett Pressure plate can sometimes be a issue but usually isn’t.
There are 2 things to get right when installing the p/p.
1) when setting the p/p on the clutch assembly and before inserting the bolts make sure that the p/p is sitting flush to the friction plate with no space/gap between the 2 and if there is a space just remove the Barnett p/p and turn it and re seat it. Sometimes it doesn’t seat in the machined grooves.
2) when installing the springs and bolts make sure you try and center the washer on the bolt right before tightening down each bolt otherwise the washer can rub against the P/p as in the pic below. Tighten bolts to 5.8Ftlbs (70Inlbs).


Finished Pressure plate


Barnett green springs- 501-82-06023


Before setting the crank case gasket and clutch cover back on the engine make sure the push rod teeth are facing to the rear of the bike as in the pic below.


Set the gasket and cover on and make sure it's seated flush to the engine block with no gap.
Insert all Clutch cover allen head bolts and tighten by hand then torque to - 7.4ftlbs (86inlbs):5mm Allen wrench. (See bolt location in link below
Clutch Cover(Crank Case Cover)Bolt Size/Location
 

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WOW...

That is one of the BEST walk through s I've read...phenomenal...This should be added to "must do" list.


 

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BUMP - because this only has 99 views...and should have a lot more than that!! this is a fantastic mod and an even better write up...
 

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Barnett pressure plate replaces the stock diaphragm spring... More spring pressure & holding strength, more linear pressure/engagement, but noticeably stiffer clutch pull as the downside.

Replacing the half discs with full discs increases the "grabbiness" and holding strength of the clutch.
 

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Great write up. A couple of years ago I replaced the 1/2 discs with fulls, and also replaced the stock spring with a speedstar. Man what a difference! I didn't replace that third one however, I kind of followed what the Vmax guys do. Kudos for great pics and a good explanation how to
 

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So how much $$$$
Did all of clutch parts run?.?.?.?.?.?.?
My clutch is slipping n I ONLY have a lil OVER 20k miles on the warrior
Just trying to figure out what's my next MOVE to fix the issue.....................
 

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Mine was slipping when I had about 35,000 miles. I did the Barnett's conversion with green springs. Kept the same plates. I measured them and they were easily within tolerance. I'm now pushing 50,000 miles and still have no issues, no slipping. If I as you I'd probably just do the Barnett's, unless you think you tore your plates up already.
 

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Dnt think I tore up the plates..... I'm not a burn out type of person especially WITH a 250TIRE OUT BACK. Will try the Barnett spring conversion n than go frm there.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So how much $$$$
Did all of clutch parts run?.?.?.?.?.?.?
My clutch is slipping n I ONLY have a lil OVER 20k miles on the warrior
Just trying to figure out what's my next MOVE to fix the issue.....................

If your gonna open the cover and change the P/p, I would also do the 2 full plate mod too.

Here's the cheapest parts I found.

Friction plates
Yamaha Friction 3 Plate 26H 16307 01 00 | eBay

SR2 Clutch Spring Conversion Kit
Yamaha VMAX Road Star Conversion Clutch Spring Kit 511 90 10002 | eBay

Crank case gasket (Not always needed)
Yamaha Crankcase Cover Gasket 5PX 15451 00 00 | eBay
 

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#11 can be left off when you put it back together. I think it's called a circlip. It makes the pull a little easier. I took mine out when I did the SR-2 and red spring conversion. Pull isn't bad at all. Great write up!
 

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Nice work, great detailed description! I did this mod, and have loved the positive lock up, with gold springs. I have some greens, a set, unopened, that I was planning on mix-n-matching, but did not use. PM me if you are looking for some-Buuump!
 
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