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2005 Yamaha Roadstar Warrior
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

Thought I'd start this thread and add to it as I go along.
A week ago the bike started to struggle to start and so I pulled the seat off and measured the battery volts and to my shock was about 11.7v.
I started the bike and took another measurement and was shocked again because the volts were at 11.7v and slowly reducing.
I disconnected the output from the regulator/rectifier while it was running and the output was near 0v.
I replaced the battery about 6 months ago so I charged it up then let it sit over night with the charger disconnected and it still measured 13v in the morning.

I pulled the trigger and purchased a replacement regulator/rectifier from Yamaha at great cost. :rolleyes:

When I installed the new regulator I measured the voltage and it only measured 12.3v at idle, confused I pulled the output plug off the regulator/rectifier and the output read 13.8v. So something is pulling it down.

On further investigation I found a thick negative wire from the battery so hot it started to melt the insulation on either side of the plug. (picture of plug below)

So now the deep investigation will begin. I'll be picking up a dc clamp meter to measure current and hopefully a flir camera to look for other hot spots and keep everyone updated with what I find.

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Lighting's not real good but this plug comes directly from the battery and goes to the regulator/rectifier with branches off to the ECU and to the headlight bucket. Only the thick negative cable either side this plug is getting really hot.

Things I have done.
  • Checked, cleaned and placed connection grease on both battery connections and torqued to spec.
  • Checked, cleaned and placed connection grease on chassis earth and torqued to spec.
  • Dissembled the plug above, inspected crimps, and both male and female plug ends, cleaned and reassembled.
 

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What is your idle RPM? the charging system of the warrior will not work properly if the idle is too low, it should be 850-950rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I had some more time today so with the DC tong meter and FLIR in hand I had some interesting results.

The FLIR confirmed the negative getting hot and I could see that only the negative lead to the regulator/rectifier is getting warm. I thought I took a photo of the regulator/rectifier negative lead but I can't find it. 🤷‍♂️
When I put the DC tong on the negative, it exceeded the 40amps max of my meter.

This is the connection that's getting hot.
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After spending some time last night thinking about the charging system I thought I'd measure between each winding while the bike was running and at idol each measured between 19 to 22v ac, without the Yamaha spec it would seem about right.

I ran the Ohm meter back over the stator windings and between each winding was about 0.4 to 1.1ohms, the 0.4 seemed a bit low.

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I then checked between the windings and negative and found it was basically short circuit and I'm almost 100% sure it should be OL or open circuit. This could explain why the negative is getting really hot from excessively high current.

For some context I had completely disconnected the regulator/rectifier and measured the negative directly from the battery.

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I also checked to see if the battery had any AC across the terminals and luckily for me there was 0v ac.
From my measurements it seems that the stator winding is arranged in a star configuration. I thought that was interesting.
My next step is to pull the stator out and do a visual check and look for small burn marks or something suggesting the winding insulation has broken down.
 

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A + BAT wire getting hot is normally caused an overloaded circuit.
A - Bat wire or ground wire getting hot is caused by a poor / bad ground or possibly the system is trying to ground through a secondary (read different) circuit.
Check Warrior charging system voltage output @ 3K RPM, +13.5 V = OK.
Luck
 
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'04' Warrior - Super Fine Metallic Black
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I did a neat write up on testing the stator with a diagram 🙂
Will provide link later and yes each stator lead must be completely isolated from ground. Your AC output is also low.
gl
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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'04' Warrior - Super Fine Metallic Black
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@Wild1 .... I should have titled that Post "Warrior Stator 101" like some of my others ... If you do an advanced search using "101" & AlanH it brings up some interesting stuff ;)
Hope it's helpful
gl
 

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@Wild1 ... you're likely to damage the new R/R with a shorted Stator as there is no overcurrent device :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
@Wild1 ... you're likely to damage the new R/R with a shorted Stator as there is no overcurrent device :(
Yeah it’s crossed my mind that could happen.

As soon as I get a chance I’ll do that search like you suggested, I look forward to the reading. 😊
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Pulled the stator tonight and found what looks like a third of the coils have overheated, probably safe to say that winding is the problem.
Took some more measurements of the coils to coil chassis and near on dead short.

I haven't been able to remove the coil from the housing due to lock tight on the 3 bolts, I need to pickup an impact driver that suits this size torques.

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I haven't been able to remove the coil from the housing due to lock tight on the 3 bolts, I need to pickup an impact driver that suits this size torques.
If at first you don't succeed, MELT THE MOTHER EFFER!!!
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I purchased a Torx impact set and removed the 3 stator and 1 lead retension T30 Torx bolts and they took some effort, they were seriously glued in. Once I had the stator removed you could see the burnt section. It's no wonder I was having an issue.

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I'm currently looking for someone to rewind my stator because a new factory one is $500aus and min 8 week wait.
 

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@Wild1 ... I remember 1 member only doing a rewind: stator alternative make
or do an Advanced Search using the query: "Rewind" & member Tomba
gl
 
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