2002 XV1700PC Warrior
I'm totally not the expert here. I got lost a half dozen times that this has come up.
But here's a little I did catch -all filters (I believe) have a bypass valve. This then bypasses the oil so it doesn't go through the filter. Why? Hmmm... maybe because at idle you wouldn't have enough oil pressure without one. Like I said, this is fuzzy for me too. But, here's where I'm back on solid ground -well kinda- Car filters have higher pressure on their bypass valves -as you can imagine, a car has higher pressure overall anyway. So, if you use a filter with a bypass valve with too high of pressure, then the bike won't generate enough pressure to push through that valve, and your oil would always be bypassed. In other words, it wouldn't ever get filtered. So you want to make sure the filter you use passes specs for this specific bike, because each bike has different oil pressure. The previous discussions then dissolve into who's got the best filter, who's got cardboard backing etc. Which I could care less about. But I do want to make sure I have a filter that will actually filter the oil all the time.
So I guess my question is this -is this filter system designed for a bike with higher pressure? Because if so it may not work on this bike. If it doesn't even have one, then I imagine it would work -although not having one may screw something up as well, I don't even know exactly why they need one.
I guess someone who knows more needs to chime in here now
Do you think its overall worth the money to buy one of these?
Although likely a non-issue with our engines, you are incorrect re; superior oil filtration and flow rate of the stainless filters compared to higher end cellulose/ fiberglass filters regardless of what the manufacturer advertises.
Most all aftermarket paper filter manufacturers (K&N, HiFlo) source their filter media from Ahlstrom. Although Ahlstrom manufactures varying grades of media, their common filter paper has a multi pass rating of 20miron and an absolute micron rating of 98.7%@30micron. Some vendors spec. different paper with different cellulose/ fiberglass makeup, and slightly different efficiencies. The stainless filters are essentially a 2D net that has significantly less capture area than comparably sized cellulose/ fiberglass filters. Imagine that as contaminants are filtered out of the oil, the pores in the stainless mesh begin to clog. Once occupied by debris, the pore is no longer open to oil flow. The cellulose media is more like a sponge, with 3D layers of porous material to capture debris while maintaining flow rate.Common stainless material is a plain dutch weave 80x180 wires per inch, and has an absolute micron rating of 98.7% efficiency at 55micron.
Without saying too much, my employer fields a race team that is sponsored by a stainless mesh filter manufacturer. The manufacturer promised better filtration, higher flow rate and relatively infinite life span. After switching to the stainless filters we had immediately visible piston skirt wear abnormalities, main bearing durability and valvetrain wear issues. Not one to believe everything I'm told, I had an independent lab analyze the stainless filter as well as OEM and two leading aftermarket filters and the results speak for themselves. The stainless media filters less efficiently, is more restrictive and significantly more costly than paper filter types. Since switching back to a cellulose filter we have resolved our engine wear issues.
Another component of the stainless filter is properly servicing and cleaning the filter media. It is nearly impossible to accurately remove contaminants from the filters without either washing debris thru (into the clean side) the filter. We now use OEM-type cellulose filters.
Blue( SS), Red(OEM paper), Green and Purple (aftermarket).
FYI our race engines have a service interval of 2 hours between fresh build, dyno breakin, race and disassembly/ inspection. Granted race engines are entirely different animals than our Warrior platform, and the piston cam profile, main bearing clearance and the kind of rpm the race platform sees indicates that the difference in filter efficiency between the stainless media and cellulose shows up within that 2 hour service interval. If we allow the engines to run an extended interval with the SS filter the increased bearing wear causes localized cavitation that quite quickly becomes of detriment. According to the collective forum experience the stainless filter media seems adequate for our application, but the fact remains that the merit explained by others has proven, in my experience, to be far from true.
Another point: it may outwardly appear that race teams are using these filters, as teams are paid to represent their sponsors product. But as with my own personal experience appearance and reality often never meet.
My filter is still happily on my bike, and "looks" fantastic to me.SC186 - great information...that is hard to find info unless you in the biz as you seem to be. Not at all surprised that "sponsor" doesn't always mean "best product for the job"...it just means "they wrote a check".
Your presentation seems rock solid to me, and puts a sour taint on the whole thing, but as you say, since most of us aren't running race engines at race engine stress/rpm levels, the balance of convenience and performance should still be in check.
thanks for the excellent, informative posts...
Actually the best filter on the market is amsoils nano filter.washable reusable oil filter
I found 3 posts on the matter, none of which has a definitive answer whether or nor they are good add on's.
Is anyone using one of these?
Is it any good?
There are several makers out there. Is there one that's better than another?
I have a 2002, are all warrior oil filters the same?
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