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BAK Improvment>>>>>>

3.3K views 41 replies 18 participants last post by  Penzoil  
#1 ·
I know a lot of you have the Big Air Kit installed on your Warrior, as I do. The BAK concept is an excellent one and it really cleans things up and adds a nice shot of power on the roll and I believe it is a "must have" upgrade for my bike. However>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

There are some additional points to consider with the installation of filters, installed directly to the throttle bodies on our Warriors. One positive point is that the way the fuel tank is designed, it acts as an intake scoop, that actually has the advantage of raising the intake pressure at the TB as the speed of the bike increases. This translates into more HP on the roll, as compared to a stationary dyno pull at your local dyno shop.

This brings to mind a couple of points we may not have considered, with regard to improving the performance of our Warriors, without spending much money at all.

Hot air rises and when we stop a t a red light or when the bike sits, the heat form the engine migrates upward and into the area where the TBs and filters reside. I can see this doing a couple of things, especially on a hot day. First, the air temp sensor is mounted to an aluminum plate, granted, it is mounted quite far forward, but if the heat from the engine raises the temp of the plate, the air temp reading will be wrong, until the bike gets rolling and the cool air brings things back to normal. This has an effect on the fuel curve that may contribute to poor drivability on hot days, mostly city type stop and go driving.

The second point is the fact where by reducing the temp of the air the engine is breathing, as much as possible and at the same time, increasing the air pressure at the TBs, will translate into better drivability and more HP!

So here's the idea>>>>>>>> Take a piece of aluminum sheet (even better, use high heat plastic due to its low thermal conductivity) and fabricate a heat shield and attach it to the bottom of the upper frame rails, to divert the heat from the engine out of and away from the intakes and the BAK sensor/coil plate. You can fill in this whole area above the motor and extend the wings to the inside of the tank walls. Make an air box type of enclosure to increase the pressure of the incoming air to the intakes, by closing the back most portion of the filter area. You can chrome it and it really cleans up th under tank area!

This should translate into a more consistent running engine and more power at high speeds. Cold air and pressure mean HP!

Baron's will you produce this for us please?

Mark.
 
#4 ·
I'm not sure I understand the question, so I'll answer it in a couple of ways... The heat in the cylinder heads would not be effected by my suggestion. If you close the bottom of the frame rails, so hot air cannot rise up to the intake area, then no hot air will be in the intake area. The air has to enter from the front of the fuel tank and not from the bottom, under the tank, where there is a significant quantity of heat.

Trapping COLD air is what you want. We do it on Winston Cup cars, Drag Cars, Sprint cars, Indy cars etc., and this is how you increase intake pressure, it's called Ram Air Induction. If you look closely at the pictures of the Patrick Racing Warrior, look at the front of the fuel tank, you will see a big intake scoop fabricated to the fuel tank. The scoop is there to increase air pressure around the intake plenum, in an attempt to pickup ET/MPH by producing HP through Ram Air. The Warrior is a hard runner to the 1/8th but its a pooch after that and they are all doing things to make the Warriors run on the other end and Ram Air helps.

Mark.
 
#5 ·
I understand the concept, I guess I have to look under the tank again. I was thinking if the hot air will be trappe under the shield in any way uring traffic riding and raising the head or wngine temperature since its natural flow upwards would be trapped under the shield and cause hot spots in the engine.
 
#7 ·
If your heat deflector/airscoop was lowest in the middle and highest on the sides where it attached to the bottom of the frame rails the heat would not be trapped. It would be deflected out around the tank. Your gas would also be cooler to. Steal your son's plastic toy sailboat and give it a try.[/emoticons/emotion-5.gif]
 
#11 ·
Arthur>>>>> There is a company locally that sells Engineering Plastic sheet, HDPE sheet, etc. If you're not familiar with plastic welding, you should give it a try, its cheap and you can make all kinds of interesting geometries! Once you're happy with your plactic fabricated part, you can send it out and have it chromed.
Oh, since I have no children, could I have your sons plastic boat???

Mark.
 
#17 ·
hmmm....Torque..I think you mean on the Orient Express bikes, we're the ones with the scoops on the front of the tanks.

I wish I could show you guys a picture of the underside of our race bikes tanks....totally sealed and HUGE.

We're working on a functional ram air airbox as we speak for street bikes at this very moment, just have patience and you'll be rewarded for your wait.
 
#19 ·
Rob, actually I noticed the circular holes in the front of the Patrick Racing bike, depicted in the Yamaha ads. I see yours in the picture above and it looks very clean, where as the Patrick bike simply looks like a hole. Either way, finish your development work on your ram air kit, so I can buy it. I talked to one of your guy's yesterday and I'm ordering a cam set and some pistons tomorrow>>>> Your old but very good friend PCW John will be installing the big valves and I'm doing the port work myself>>>>>> I love aluminum in my lungs, keeps me potent!

Thanks,

Mark.
 
#25 ·
Thanks Rob and keep them records coming! You'll impress me when I see an 8.99 and I bet you can make it happen, it's only a "matter of time"! John, who I've come to respect very much over the years, has nothing but praise for you guy's!
Too bad you gotta hang all that weight on the bike. Yamaha builds a light bike and ya gotta make it heavy again???? Splain it to me lucy...