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Discussion Starter #1
I installed everything correctly AFAIK. When the bike is in the air and I lift up on the rear tire the suspension moves a little bit and I believe the heim joints are are loose because I can hear metal to metal contact when I do. Any ideas?

I found another post from 2014 but no body answered it. He was asking why the heims are 1/2 inch when the bolt a 12mm?
 

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It's good to keep everything metric or SAE.

There is a set-up document in the Documentation Forum see Table of Contents.

Its key to assemble the kit so its length matches stock. Also assemble it so all male threads go into all female threads as far as possible.

Then install. Then adjust while installed.

This helps avoid pesky adjustment travel range problems.

Between these two tips and the Documentation Forum you can get it done and discover the trouble.
 

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The rest of the story by AlanH :>)

I installed everything correctly AFAIK. When the bike is in the air and I lift up on the rear tire the suspension moves a little bit and I believe the heim joints are are loose because I can hear metal to metal contact when I do. Any ideas?

I found another post from 2014 but no body answered it. He was asking why the heims are 1/2 inch when the bolt a 12mm?
So much for aftermarket parts :( but isn't an issue with this assembly.
I can see that you are a very discriminating person like me ;) and good of you to challenge this assembly.
If it was my design I would have used Metric parts.

The excess radial clearance between the Metric & American Dim's is handled if the swingarm is hanging while tightening the fasteners to the Crush Tubes/Hollow Sleeves or on the ground with the wheel mounted.

Slight Axial movement of the Warrior rear suspension is by Yamaha design so that the sleeves rotate around the bearings and should exist with the Baron MOD.

With the new Heim Joint the inner race should tighten on the crush Tubes/Hollow sleeve. There should be a new sleeve for the front as I recall :)
gl
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here’s a video which is easier than explaining.

https://youtu.be/hf3x1ILraHw

Like I said, I think everything is correct. Why is the bolt smaller diameter then the grime? I didn’t check it before installing but I wish I had. I don’t know if I trust this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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DIY adjustable lowering kit by Ron aka ram396

There's lots of press on this subject if you use the Search Engine.
If you review the BOM by Ram396 you'll see that he's using 1/2" fasteners through out except for the longer M12 Hex head bolt that replaces the factory M12 in the Relay Arm to accommodate the wider Heim Joint.

Up front (Bike Frame) you'll need to use the new shorter Spacer to once again accommodate the wider Heim Joint. When you tighten/torque the factory Hex Head Bolt the axial forces will be applied to the inner race of the Heims, new spacer and 2-tabs of the Bike Frame.
If it was my ride I would do this with the bike on the ground to pickup the 0.030" approx clearance between the M12 fastener & 1/2" I.D. inner race of the Heim Joint.

Disclaimer: I don't have adjustable links so no hands-on here ;) my ride was lowered with stretched links by Looney back in the early days. I've since gone back to stock height with 1000# spring.

Take note that the enclosed photos by Ron shows the new spacer & Hex bolt on the same side which isn't the case. Spacer up front and bolt to Relay arm.

  • In your YouTube video it appears that you've flipped the relay arm but perhaps that's an allusion.
  • Also, doesn't look like you have tightened up the front bolt to the frame and the reason for all the Radial movement unless the spacer is machined under-size?
This might be of interest for Relay Arm: Stretched Links & Eibach Spring

This was already posted in another thread but I figured more people would see it here.
Here is what I got from Midwest Control

2 HBT8-4.00 Hex Bar Turnbuckles
2 MSM-8 Sphcl rod end, male, steel race
2 MSF-8 Sphcl rod end, female, steel race
2 TR5000-7.00 Threaded rod

You will also need 4 right handed jam nuts 1/2 20 thread, 2 left handed jam nuts same size, all I could find was left handed lug nuts, 12mm bolt 140mm long and spacer. The spacer is 90mm long, 18mm OD, ID for 12mm bolt of course.
Keep in mind I haven't installed this yet so I'm not 100% sure this will work without a little tweeking. So make and install at your own risk. Had to add that disclamer for my own protection.[/emoticons/emotion-2.gif][/emoticons/emotion-2.gif]
Got it all for under $100. I had to have a machine shop make the spacer for me, at $40 they were a little proud of there work although they did use stainless and had to make it on their CNC, a little over kill.
Good luck and happy moding!!

Ron

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you every one for the help. I took everything back apart last night and re did it. I had it all right but I wasn't getting the front nut tight enough the first time. I felt like it was tight enough but it was not because the frame tabs weren't touching the heims yet. I still don't like the design/tolerances but whatever I feel better than what it was before.
 
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