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Discussion Starter #1
Ok fellas, need some advice. Ive searched and researched RSW and have done many tests to see if I can fix the problem.

I’ve tested and inspected my wires from the R/R and the battery and they look good. It is reading 13.55 at both where it plugs into the R/R and at the battery. When I start the bike, the battery reads 12.75 and will not increase with higher rpms

I measured all 3 phases at the AC side and at idle they are all consistent at around 30 vac and at around 2000rpm it’s around 50 at all 3 phases.

I checked polarity at all 3 phases and it checks out.

I checked for ground on the AC side and no issues.

I tested what I could on the R/R, diode test checked out.

It all pointed to the R/R but when I replaced the R/R with a used one I got the same result, it’s not charging the battery.

I did replace the R/R last September because I was having the same issue but it fixed it then.

outside of phisically inspecting the stator I’m out of ideas. Anyone have any suggestions? Is there anything else I can look at and it test outside of getting into the stator?

sorry for the long post but I wanted to give as much information as I can.

oh I also have 2 batteries thinking it was my battery. They are fully charged and haven’t lost any power so I’m thinking those are ok, able to hold a charge, etc. The batteries I have are the shorai from last September with their charger and the scorpion lithium I received last week.

I’m lost. Argh.
 

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Your bike is a 2005 right? And it seems like maybe you bought it new?

The most recent Rectifier / Regulator was a used part, and as you know testing can be tricky. It looks like you did but just to be clear, did you test following the service manual steps, and by chance did you do any reading about symptoms that your bike exhibits that match?

Any codes on gauge when shutting-down using kill switch?

Sorry, I'm just clearing the decks before jumping-in. But my first bet is your replacement RR is suspect.

What is warm idle set at?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Mine is a 2002 and bought it in 2004. Yeah I looked it over and followed the service manual. Then tested the DC side of RR to the battery and it was fine. Also followed Alan’s post about testing vac output.

I also suspect the RR. But it’s my third one and my second fixed the problem back in September. Could it have failed again? It was also used. Could it all be a coincidence or do I have some sort of gremlin?

if the stator passed the tests, do you think it is worth opening it up?
 

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Magneto tests are more reliable. Its sometimes a good idea to test a couple of times to see if delivery voltage fluctuates but at ~900rpm warm idle it should reliably deliver adequate juice. That really just leaves the Rectifier Regulator.

If the R/R's coupling contacts are clean and its wires test good and everything else around it including fuses test good then its likely you simply got a used one that is failing.

I did not compare all your exact test readings to the manual overnight, I'm betting you already did that.
 

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Ok fellas, need some advice. Ive searched and researched RSW and have done many tests to see if I can fix the problem.

I’ve tested and inspected my wires from the R/R and the battery and they look good. It is reading 13.55 at both where it plugs into the R/R and at the battery. When I start the bike, the battery reads 12.75 and will not increase with higher rpms
  • I measured all 3 phases at the AC side and at idle they are all consistent at around 30 vac and at around 2000rpm it’s around 50 at all 3 phases.
I checked polarity at all 3 phases and it checks out.
  • I checked for ground on the AC side and no issues.
I tested what I could on the R/R, diode test checked out.

It all pointed to the R/R but when I replaced the R/R with a used one I got the same result, it’s not charging the battery.

I did replace the R/R last September because I was having the same issue but it fixed it then.

outside of phisically inspecting the stator I’m out of ideas. Anyone have any suggestions? Is there anything else I can look at and it test outside of getting into the stator?

sorry for the long post but I wanted to give as much information as I can.

oh I also have 2 batteries thinking it was my battery. They are fully charged and haven’t lost any power so I’m thinking those are ok, able to hold a charge, etc. The batteries I have are the shorai from last September with their charger and the scorpion lithium I received last week.

I’m lost. Argh.
The troubleshooting procedures in the Factory YFSM is minimal for the Warrior 3-Phase Regulator/Rectifier IMHO and is carried across their entire cruiser platform product line :(

I've highlighted 2 of the 3 tests for the Stator with Bullet Points and Bold Underlined Text above.
  • I'm assuming you've also checked the Resistance of the Stator Windings per the YFSM!
That being said, I'm including an earlier contribution that I suspect you've used as well as some new info to test the 3-Phase Regulator/Rectifier. I'm certain that there is similar info on the www and YouTube too.
The Digital Meter Diode Test will produce either a mV (millivolt) or volt read out (500mV or 0.5v example) for the Forward Bias Test if the diode is OK!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A quick update for when people do a search. This one can at least be a closed topic, LOL.

I bought a brand new RR after thinking I bought a bad used RR and I was still having issues with my charging system. After more testing, it was determined that the RR wires I extended had to be redone. Even though there was voltage going to the battery from the end of the RR connector, it would not push the extra voltage the RR was giving out. Thanks all for your help and suggestions.
 
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