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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I spun the clutch the other day. I have a Barnett plate with green springs + 100k on the clock, so my guess is the frictions are gone. My plan is to replace the frictions and springs, and re-use the hub, basket, and drive plates.


So what was the consensus on frictions?


Barnett carbon fiber is out. Too thin to use with the old UN-modified Barnett pressure plate.


I heard something about using Vmax frictions but confidence is low on that one.


I heard something about replaceing the three 16321s with 16307s ?? Anybody know for sure??
 

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Re: Best Clutch Pack

I went with Yamaha steels and friction plates. I also replaced the 2 half frictions with whole ones and converted to the Barnett with green springs. I like the way it bites. I did all this because I was driving thru the clutch at about 25k miles. I am pretty sure the stock spring steel pressure plate gave up.


Temper all that with the fact that my Warrior is all but stock.
 

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Bladerunr said:
heard something about using Vmax frictions but confidence is low on that one.




THE PLATES ARE THE SAME IN THE VMAX.


SOME VMAX GUYS HAVE SWAPPED OUT THE 16321 FOR THE 16307 FROM WHAT I CAN RECALL.
 

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Re: Best Clutch Pack

Coupled with the Barnett SR2 with any Barnett springs (I use the gold springs which are Barnett's lightest), a stock motor will use OEM Warrior friction plates for 100k+ depending on burn-out frequency of course. The Yami friction material is actually rated highly and is made for big cube powerplants. Its the SR2 that makes the entire clutch assembly great (the Yami spring system can't plant the discs well enough). One thing, be sure to upgrade your clutch cable to Barnett also. Even the gold Barnett springs are much heavier, and you'll want more cable capacity to handle the heavier springs over time.
 

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Re: Best Clutch Pack

Arizona Warrior said:
One thing, be sure to upgrade your clutch cable to Barnett also. Even the gold Barnett springs are much heavier, and you'll want more cable capacity to handle the heavier springs over time.

It might be a good idea but I don't think 100% necessary. I run the stock cable and have had the Barnett conversion installed for approximately 15k. All of those miles on a single cable. I replace the cable every other year so this spring I will get another.
 

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Re: Best Clutch Pack

True.Lets say, then, that its very highly recommended to upgrade your clutch cable so you don't have to replace it so often, and so its much less likely to snap at some future date in the middle of nowhere on a Sunday afternoon.


Yes, the stock cables can last a long time. A search here will yield many that have broken earlier even without the SR2. And over history, I've had bikes that I rode 30k and sold with the original cables installed. Of course they had soft oem clutch springs.


The other problem is cable stretch, which happens faster with the SR2/Gold installed, even faster with Red or Green springs. A stretched cable makes it much harder to dial-in a good adjustment, one thatstays adjusted over a long period of time.


If nothing else, when its time for a new cable, get a Barnett you'll be astounded at the difference in feel, and in length of service.


Don't let any of this sway you from getting an SR2 because its the biggest smile-factor mod you can do - its an amazing acceleration improvement - and doesn't cost too much.


JamesD said:
It might be a good idea but I don't think 100% necessary. I run the stock cable and have had the Barnett conversion installed for approximately 15k. All of those miles on a single cable. I replace the cable every other year so this spring I will get another.
 

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Bladerunr said:
Well, I spun the clutch the other day. I have a Barnett plate with green springs + 100k on the clock, so my guess is the frictions are gone. My plan is to replace the frictions and springs, and re-use the hub, basket, and drive plates.


So what was the consensus on frictions?


Barnett carbon fiber is out. Too thin to use with the old UN-modified Barnett pressure plate.


I heard something about using Vmax frictions but confidence is low on that one.


I heard something about replaceing the three 16321s with 16307s ?? Anybody know for sure??
Ken .... i did athorough researchon this site before converting to the revised Barnett SR-2 rev A assembly. My resourceswere 2 of the most respected members and pioneers on this site and a representative of Barnett Tool & Engineering.
  1. Barnett has resolved the carbon fiber mystery by the combination of different P/N's for the Warrior clutch pack
  2. Substituting the 2 half friction plates appears to be a somewhat common mod by those members withnon-stockengines and 30 & 31 tooth front pulleys.The 2-cushion springs that accompany the half plates will not be used!(The 1-half friction plate in the clutch boss Damper Assy is not replaced)
  3. A much less common mod for easier shifting is the removal of the wire circlip/clutch boss ring from the Damper Assy.


Here's afew good reads:
barnett spring plate "UPDATE" http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/25553/285445.aspx#285445
Barnett Clutch Spring Conv's SR-2 Rev A - UPDATED http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/29213/392300.aspx#392300
Clutch plate replacement pointers - Recommended Reading http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/107702/894063.aspx#894063This is an excellenttime for you to replace your CPS with the new designed part as i did during the R&R
Not to be confrontational and no disrespect, but after 100k miles, i think your intended parts replacement is rather sparse and very conservative. You'll want to clean-upall nicks & burrson the primary and clutch baskets that contact the clutch pack and consider replacing the steel plates as well as the pull rod brg. Perhaps Barnett will machine your SR-2 to the new specs if it's not worn out.Just my .02 here, but after such excellent service out of the clutch assy,why would you want to redesign the wheel and modify the current arrangement that has served you so well?
 

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Re: Best Clutch Pack

Arizona Warrior said:
True.Lets say, then, that its very highly recommended to upgrade your clutch cable so you don't have to replace it so often, and so its much less likely to snap at some future date in the middle of nowhere on a Sunday afternoon.


Yes, the stock cables can last a long time. A search here will yield many that have broken earlier even without the SR2. And over history, I've had bikes that I rode 30k and sold with the original cables installed. Of course they had soft oem clutch springs.


The other problem is cable stretch, which happens faster with the SR2/Gold installed, even faster with Red or Green springs. A stretched cable makes it much harder to dial-in a good adjustment, one thatstays adjusted over a long period of time.


If nothing else, when its time for a new cable, get a Barnett you'll be astounded at the difference in feel, and in length of service.


...................................
The topic post here is: Best Clutch Pack
not best clutch cable and i'm sure Ken can give a dissertation on clutch cables after his+100k miles of hand to hand combat and real world experience with the Warrior
 

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Re: Best Clutch Pack

Well i dont know how u guys r keepn that cable that long i got the carbon fiber clutch the sr2 and the barnett cable and have all ready broken it... i go threw atleast a cable a year... but other then that i love the combo i got going on.... the cable thing might be cause i ride it like i stole it every were i go
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the input guys, "mush-aprish" as they say around here.


Looks like I'll go with what JamesD has, swapping out the two half frictions, and replace the third halffriction with stock. That is, if I understand what Alan is saying??


Alan, I bet you're right about the hub and basket, but I am a cheap sob and I'm hoping for the best. I'll get a mike on those drive plates but they don't seem to wear much. Claudia's V-star had 89k on it and the drive plates looked like new?? And yes, I have a spanking new CPS kit on the benchwaiting for a good reason to crack that case for more than a year now. The "pull rod brg"?? Same as clutch release or throw out bearing?? I think that one goes with the Barnett plate... should outlast the bike. I thought about sending the Barnett plate in for replacement, I'm sure they will if I ask. I don't want to take the down time. Maybe next time I need frictions at 200k.
You know what... I didn't replace the bolts last time. Don't suppose you remember what size those are do ya??



Arizona, I don't have a lot of good things to say about Barnett's line of cables. Near as I can remember... I've had three of them. Motion Pro, and Barron's too. All broke on me and left me stranded. Right now my bike has an old ugly black fat plastic YAMAHA cable on it that has lasted twice as long as the best Barnett can make. I don't have the number but it fits 99 and up 1600 RoadStar, !SEVEN! dollars on eBay! It's a lil bit too short.
 

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Bladerunr said:
Thanks for the input guys, "mush-aprish" as they say around here.


Looks like I'll go with what JamesD has, swapping out the two half frictions, and replace the third halffriction with stock. That is, if I understand what Alan is saying??


Alan, I bet you're right about the hub and basket, but I am a cheap sob and I'm hoping for the best. I'll get a mike on those drive plates but they don't seem to wear much. Claudia's V-star had 89k on it and the drive plates looked like new??

[*]Flatness of the steel plates is just as critical. Be sure to read the Clutch plate replacement pointers - Recommended Reading that i provided earlier. Has some excellent pointers regarding the installation and directionof the sheared/stamped parts being installed in the same direction![/list]


And yes, I have a spanking new CPS kit on the benchwaiting for a good reason to crack that case for more than a year now.

[*]You'll probably need a cross point impact screw driver to remove the 2-CPS screws.[/list]


The "pull rod brg"?? Same as clutch release or throw out bearing??

[*]Yes[/list]


I think that one goes with the Barnett plate

[*]It's thebrg that fits within the c'bore of the Barnett plate[/list]


...should outlast the bike.

[*]I don't know about that
but you're in the Pilot's seat on this one![/list]


I thought about sending the Barnett plate in for replacement, I'm sure they will if I ask. I don't want to take the down time.

[*]I had mine back in 3 or 4 days at no charge. They are located in Venturaas you know[/list]


Maybe next time I need frictions at 200k.
You know what... I didn't replace the bolts last time.


Don't suppose you remember what size those are do ya??


[*]Almost... Hex Head machine boltsM6 x 1.0 pitch- stock screws are 25mm long

[*]Barnett provided 6-new bolts with the SR-2 kit that were slightly longer (30-35mm)and also 6-heavy washers

[*]Suggest you call Barnett to confirm properlength[/list][/list][/list]


Arizona, I don't have a lot of good things to say about Barnett's line of cables. Near as I can remember... I've had three of them. Motion Pro, and Barron's too. All broke on me and left me stranded. Right now my bike has an old ugly black fat plastic YAMAHA cable on it that has lasted twice as long as the best Barnett can make.

[*]The reason it has lasted so long is because it has a straight end at the clutch perch and not a 45 deg
just like my customBarnett cable


[*]Ken, i suspect your extremelywide burly bars and possible constraints of the custom fairing with the angled cable end was causing a premature wear to the stranded cable in the bend .... but i've been wrong before
[/list][/list]


I don't have the number but it fits 99 and up 1600 RoadStar, !SEVEN! dollars on eBay! It's a lil bit too short.
 

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Ah that sux! But the fairing and Burly's look so darn good maybe its worth it, or maybe a hydraulic clutch or a different cable exit angle at the bars, its hard to see with the gallery pics which don't get in there where the handlebars live. Its a great looking bike so maybe in the end, if the only affordable solution is less cable life,what the heck. Still, check out Barnett's different end angles JFTHOI. It als helps thatthey have a cable that slides so slick youhave to look at your hand to be sure its pulling the lever (lol).


Can I askwhich Burly barsyou have? Can't tell.


Can I also ask how you built the custom "Shirasaya" shift link? It looks adjustable even.


Bladerunr said:
Arizona, I don't have a lot of good things to say about Barnett's line of cables. Near as I can remember... I've had three of them. Motion Pro, and Barron's too. All broke on me and left me stranded. Right now my bike has an old ugly black fat plastic YAMAHA cable on it that has lasted twice as long as the best Barnett can make. I don't have the number but it fits 99 and up 1600 RoadStar, !SEVEN! dollars on eBay! It's a lil bit too short.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Arizona Warrior said:
Can I askwhich Burly barsyou have? Can't tell.


Can I also ask how you built the custom "Shirasaya" shift link? It looks adjustable even.

Yes, it's adjustable, fully functional shifter / pig sticker. Precision fabrication tools required. Or, you could bend the stock shift link over your knee until it matches the cane sword in question... epoxy, grinder, spraypaint... etc.


I couldn't find a link to those bars... White Brothers has gone under, or sold out! The model I have was made to give RoadKing riders 3 inches more pull-back. They're not so wide at 32", WaY pull-back at 19".
 
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