Will wait for it may be it's will solve the problemIf there are no codes at all then in this case the ECU is still working to the extent its fuel injection blocking is working (its the subroutine that triggers the flashing check engine light).
I remember a very old post where this happened once before. I'm going to do a few advanced searches. Maybe get lucky and find it.
any chance you can share a link for it?Just saw new warrior part our on ebay 300 ecm n 200$ tank lots of good parts parts out of Canada im but done also boulevard windshield for 100$
If there are no codes at all then in this case the ECU is still working to the extent its fuel injection blocking is working (its the subroutine that triggers the flashing check engine light).
I remember a very old post where this happened once before. I'm going to do a few advanced searches. Maybe get lucky and find it. [adding: it was related to a recent mod so does not seem to apply here]
Also, do you have power to the handlebar on-off switch (red-white comes from battery via keyswitch) and when 'on' is there also power on the black-red (powers fuel injection relay and ignition coils).
Since you ran Diagnostics the clock display must be working. And you must have had NO codes in history.
Did this begin subsequent to a repair or mod?
I am guessing your primary language is French, which I do not speak. But you seem to be communicating plenty good enough so I don't feel like there is a communication language barrier. I admire multi-lingual people.
Unfortunately this is everything I can bring to the table trying to help you. I look forward to learning from you how this is fixed. Dead ECU's here are rare. The more we learn while helping you troubleshoot the more we can help others in the future. Good luck with your repair.
I am sorry to correct you but it is could be recharge. Any way i fixed it just wanted to tell you all story.@3EBC
You have not fixed you bike's click of death?
Every time you shut off your bike the battery will be drained in an hour or two. It will be dead. It IS dead, incapable. It cannot be recharged and that it why your light is flashing.
You need to fix your click of death. Search, pick a fix, do the fix, verify the fix. Then buy a replacement battery that is at minimum as powerful as stock.
What he said.Okay page 6-5
Warning light flashing at key-on but will not start. Most often the clock will display a number but not always.
12 means no CPS signal.
19 means side stand.
30 means LAS signal indicates a fall.
41 means bad switch inside LAS.
50 means ECU memory check error.
If there is no error code but light is flashing as above at key-on, then:
1a. Sit on bike, raise kickstand, put in neutral, pull in clutch lever, turn on key and press start.
1b. VERIFY the Fuel Injection / Start Logic relay (part number varies by model year).
1c. Use screwdriver handle to gently tap tap tap the LAS body (behind kickstand).
2a. VERIFY available battery voltage including clean tight POS and NEG cables both ends.
2b. VERIFY starter solenoid (has two 30a fuses one of which is a spare). Only buy from Yamaha, resellers most often send the wrong part.
2c. VERIFY starter cable both ends.
Chapter 6 has more help including sequences.
My hope is you dig into this because some shop is likely to happily charge you for a new ECU when it's best to understand the ECU is like a traffic light, it get or does not get expected signals and does what it's program tells it to do, INCLUDING DOING NOTHING.
The mere fact you have a blinking light is not enough to pop for a new ECU. But its your wallet.
If you get thru these and no joy then let us know here in this thread in case. Although dim there could still be other undocumented causes that are not coming to mind at this moment.
MY BAD, I incorrectly said 'while pressing buttons when it is actually 'at key on its fixed above, my apology.
Good luck with your repair.
Yes it's correct no codes at all