Do you have the e-copy service manual? See link below my sigpic. Go there. Get manual having both supplements, they contain model-year equipment changes and also corrections.Where would I see these pages?
Thank you! I will head home and get some sleep and get back started on it tomorrow. I really appreciate all the help tonight. I will update this tomorrow as I find things out.Do you have the e-copy service manual? See link below my sigpic. Go there. Get manual having both supplements, they contain model-year equipment changes and also corrections.
You need page 6-5 see section *2.
Plus page 6-36.
I am certain the dozen+ codes on your listed list are useless history so forget them. Its not possible all those are happening at once. Plus you are not seeing anything in the clock display.
It still could be undervoltage. If its not then page 6-36 is your target.
You cannot do any good tonight. Get some sleep. I am going to. Don't worry. Every time we see something like this its simple. The manual page will walk you thru diagnostics. Plus you need to verify AIR and SPARK and FUEL are good, you can check manually, or via self-diagnosis system.
I see you mentioned running diagnostic 50. I had tried running all diagnostics when I first noticed the bike wouldn’t start. The kill switch does not activate or change anything in the diagnostic menu. It acts as if I’m not even pressing anything at all.BTW on page 6-5 it appears in this case based on your posts that section *2-a applies but section *2-b does not (because no codes output to clock display and the motor is turning over).
Its AIR or FUEL or SPARK or Voltage, or possibly a fuel injection relay but uncertain in this case of that (Adding: you might need diagnostic test on page 6-16 for diag 50).
I have not physically checked for spark. I was trying to eliminate things that I moved and changed that I’m not familiar with. I assumed, which gets us in trouble sometimes, that just changing plugs wouldn’t affect the spark. I did check the fuses. The FI fuse was the first one I checked. I used a test light to confirm a connection from both sides of the fuse in the connector. What would be my best course of action to check spark on the warrior?I suspect that you have an issue with the Relay Unit Wiring similar to freeezzzz or in the wiring/connector of this component based on the many random fault codes.
Each and every time the ignition key is cycled to ON the Fuel Pump operates momentarily. If the fuel manifold is already pressurized the pump isn't as audible as when not pressurized imho! The LCV (Linear Control Valve) only opens when the key is turned off on a hot engine during a normal shut-down not using the engine cut-off switch.
It is imperative that you validate 15A F.I. Fuse #71 is not compromised. This fuse is exclusively for the Fuel Pump & Injectors.
Do you have Ignition/Spark @ the Plugs? This should have been checked early On but I'm armchair quarterbacking at this point and benefitting from others suggestions
My .02 based on my Hands-On with the Warrior electrical system and also stated in the YFSM.
The ECU & all sensors will operate as long as there is over 5vdc output from the battery to its regulated power supply. The outputs, such as the FI pump, relays and starter etcetera require approx 12vdc.
I think your battery is fine.
ADDED: IMO the Warrior Diagnostic is of no value for your issue so don't waste your time :>)
- Check Fuse #71
- Check for Spark
- Check Relay Unit Wiring
The battery connections are still crimped in the factory ends and are hooked back just as they were before.Mouse in the headlight bucket? Seriously, this has happened before. I dunno if it would create this set of issues though.
Your battery sounds fine, 11.5 while cranking is fine. Are you sure all the connections are made. IIRC there are two wires that go to one of the posts. I can't recall which though.
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You're right there's only one lug for each battery terminal I just checked on my bike. But there are two wires going to each lug and the lighter gauge red and blacks have plugs in line. Did those get disconnected at all?The battery connections are still crimped in the factory ends and are hooked back just as they were before.