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Where would I see these pages?
Do you have the e-copy service manual? See link below my sigpic. Go there. Get manual having both supplements, they contain model-year equipment changes and also corrections.

You need page 6-5 see section *2.
Plus page 6-36.

I am certain the dozen+ codes on your listed list are useless history so forget them. Its not possible all those are happening at once. Plus you are not seeing anything in the clock display.

It still could be undervoltage. If its not then page 6-36 is your target.

You cannot do any good tonight. Get some sleep. I am going to. Don't worry. Every time we see something like this its simple. The manual page will walk you thru diagnostics. Plus you need to verify AIR and SPARK and FUEL are good, you can check manually, or via self-diagnosis system.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Do you have the e-copy service manual? See link below my sigpic. Go there. Get manual having both supplements, they contain model-year equipment changes and also corrections.

You need page 6-5 see section *2.
Plus page 6-36.

I am certain the dozen+ codes on your listed list are useless history so forget them. Its not possible all those are happening at once. Plus you are not seeing anything in the clock display.

It still could be undervoltage. If its not then page 6-36 is your target.

You cannot do any good tonight. Get some sleep. I am going to. Don't worry. Every time we see something like this its simple. The manual page will walk you thru diagnostics. Plus you need to verify AIR and SPARK and FUEL are good, you can check manually, or via self-diagnosis system.
Thank you! I will head home and get some sleep and get back started on it tomorrow. I really appreciate all the help tonight. I will update this tomorrow as I find things out.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I see the mod list and badges, but I’m not seeing a manual download. Am I looking in the wrong place?
 

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BTW on page 6-5 it appears in this case based on your posts that section *2-a applies but section *2-b does not (because no codes output to clock display and the motor is turning over).

Its AIR or FUEL or SPARK or Voltage, or possibly a fuel injection relay but uncertain in this case of that (Adding: you might need diagnostic test on page 6-16 for diag 50).

Goodnight brother.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
BTW on page 6-5 it appears in this case based on your posts that section *2-a applies but section *2-b does not (because no codes output to clock display and the motor is turning over).

Its AIR or FUEL or SPARK or Voltage, or possibly a fuel injection relay but uncertain in this case of that (Adding: you might need diagnostic test on page 6-16 for diag 50).

Goodnight brother.
I see you mentioned running diagnostic 50. I had tried running all diagnostics when I first noticed the bike wouldn’t start. The kill switch does not activate or change anything in the diagnostic menu. It acts as if I’m not even pressing anything at all.
 

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You might not hear it on some, very faint. Sometimes the instructions will say to flip the handlebar on-off switch a second time. A couple say if its already 'on' then flip it 'off' then back 'on', or similar. Others produce flashing CEL and faint noise. Every detail of the Chapter 6 instructions matters. Sequence even. Its hard to learn new tech. Hang in there. The page numbers I gave you will help.
 

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I suspect that you have an issue with the Relay Unit Wiring similar to freeezzzz or in the wiring/connector of this component based on the many random fault codes.

Each and every time the ignition key is cycled to ON the Fuel Pump operates momentarily. If the fuel manifold is already pressurized the pump isn't as audible as when not pressurized imho! The LCV (Linear Control Valve) only opens when the key is turned off on a hot engine during a normal shut-down not using the engine cut-off switch.

It is imperative that you validate 15A F.I. Fuse #71 is not compromised. This fuse is exclusively for the Fuel Pump & Injectors.
Do you have Ignition/Spark @ the Plugs? This should have been checked early On but I'm armchair quarterbacking at this point and benefitting from others suggestions :)

My .02 based on my Hands-On with the Warrior electrical system and also stated in the YFSM.
The ECU & all sensors will operate as long as there is over 5vdc output from the battery to its regulated power supply. The outputs, such as the FI pump, relays and starter etcetera require approx 12vdc.
I think your battery is fine.
  1. Check Fuse #71
  2. Check for Spark
  3. Check Relay Unit Wiring
ADDED: IMO the Warrior Diagnostic is of no value for your issue so don't waste your time :>)
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I had followed the steps perfectly, as far as I can tell. The sequences that should produce a flashing CEL do not. That’s when I decided that something was wrong with my diagnostic menu. I am about to head back to the shop. I put the new battery on a charger when I left last night. I am going to check voltage on it when I get there. If voltage looks weird on it, after sitting on the charger all evening, I will buy a new one to test. I will move forward with the diagnostics, yet again, after that. It HAS to be voltage, right? I’m reaching here simply because I would love for it to just be that I got a bad battery. I can always take it back if it was defective.
 

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Mouse in the headlight bucket? Seriously, this has happened before. I dunno if it would create this set of issues though.

Your battery sounds fine, 11.5 while cranking is fine. Are you sure all the connections are made. IIRC there are two wires that go to one of the posts. I can't recall which though.


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Discussion Starter #52
I suspect that you have an issue with the Relay Unit Wiring similar to freeezzzz or in the wiring/connector of this component based on the many random fault codes.

Each and every time the ignition key is cycled to ON the Fuel Pump operates momentarily. If the fuel manifold is already pressurized the pump isn't as audible as when not pressurized imho! The LCV (Linear Control Valve) only opens when the key is turned off on a hot engine during a normal shut-down not using the engine cut-off switch.

It is imperative that you validate 15A F.I. Fuse #71 is not compromised. This fuse is exclusively for the Fuel Pump & Injectors.
Do you have Ignition/Spark @ the Plugs? This should have been checked early On but I'm armchair quarterbacking at this point and benefitting from others suggestions :)

My .02 based on my Hands-On with the Warrior electrical system and also stated in the YFSM.
The ECU & all sensors will operate as long as there is over 5vdc output from the battery to its regulated power supply. The outputs, such as the FI pump, relays and starter etcetera require approx 12vdc.
I think your battery is fine.
  1. Check Fuse #71
  2. Check for Spark
  3. Check Relay Unit Wiring
ADDED: IMO the Warrior Diagnostic is of no value for your issue so don't waste your time :>)
I have not physically checked for spark. I was trying to eliminate things that I moved and changed that I’m not familiar with. I assumed, which gets us in trouble sometimes, that just changing plugs wouldn’t affect the spark. I did check the fuses. The FI fuse was the first one I checked. I used a test light to confirm a connection from both sides of the fuse in the connector. What would be my best course of action to check spark on the warrior?
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Mouse in the headlight bucket? Seriously, this has happened before. I dunno if it would create this set of issues though.

Your battery sounds fine, 11.5 while cranking is fine. Are you sure all the connections are made. IIRC there are two wires that go to one of the posts. I can't recall which though.


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The battery connections are still crimped in the factory ends and are hooked back just as they were before.
 

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The battery connections are still crimped in the factory ends and are hooked back just as they were before.
You're right there's only one lug for each battery terminal I just checked on my bike. But there are two wires going to each lug and the lighter gauge red and blacks have plugs in line. Did those get disconnected at all?

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Discussion Starter #56
I would like to start off by saying THANK YOU to everyone who chimed in and was willing to help with my issue. It truly is great to see a community of people coming together to help each other. With that being said, the bike is now running. I was so convinced that it had to have been something I did with the new maintenance that I just overlooked any pre-existing issues and that's what it turned out to be. The wire for the fuel pump, in the Relay Harness had apparently been "chewed" through during storage. This was something very similar what freeezzzz had mentioned. Thanks to arizonawarrior for staying up late going over things and looking up sections in the e-manual. If you need a copy, look him up and go to the links in his sig. I have to give the biggest shout out to alanh for contacting me in my messages and getting a hold of me on the phone. He talked me through looking at different circuits and helped me to find the problem wire that was giving me such a headache. If you are having wiring issues, I highly recommend checking out his sig. He has a very well mapped out wiring schematic for both the older and newer Warriors. I was able to start the bike with a clear gauge cluster and listen to her rumble once again. I still have a few things left to button up before she is ready for my trip on Thursday, but I could not have done it without this amazing forum. Thank you again!
 

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And this is why this is the best forum on the internet

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