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Discussion Starter #1
After bottoming out and shorting the wiring under the rear fender for my integrated tailight, my brake light has developed a new symptom it won't reliably cancel and sometimes it just randomly comes on.

I can jiggle the switch on the rear brake peddle and get the light to flicker on and off, and I can also put force on the brake pedel by pulling it up with my foot and get the light to come on even though the peddle doesn't move in that direction. I initially thought maybe the switch was bad, but now I am thinking that somehow the rod from the rear master cylinder got out of adjustment and is pulling on the brake peddle and triggering the switch - does that make sense? I tried backing off the jamb nut on the rod so that I could lengthen the rod but I couldn't get the nut loose, thinking I might have to try it with the rod connected up front so it wont spin? Any suggestions?
 

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NorCalWarrior said:
I can jiggle the switch on the rear brake peddle and get the light to flicker on and off, and I can also put force on the brake pedel by pulling it up with my foot and get the light to come on even though the peddle doesn't move in that direction. I initially thought maybe the switch was bad, but now I am thinking that somehow the rod from the rear master cylinder got out of adjustment and is pulling on the brake peddle and triggering the switch - does that make sense? I tried backing off the jamb nut on the rod so that I could lengthen the rod but I couldn't get the nut loose, thinking I might have to try it with the rod connected up front so it wont spin? Any suggestions?
Suggestions ... STOP what you are doing ..... lengthening the MC pushrod that attaches to the brake pedal can possiblycause your rear brakes to lock upbecause the brake fluid will not be able tofreely return to the reservoir when it heats up and expands
this is not the solution to your current problem. This adjustment can/will negatively affect the orifice hole alignmentwithin the MC body depending upon pedal position.


The adjustment to the rear brake light switch and it's sensitivityis performed at one place only,the plastic hex colletnut that is attached to the brake light switch and support bracket with thebrake pedal not applied.


To adjust the switch you must restrain the main body from turning and rotate the plastic hexcollect nut only. The adjustment can be made w/o any tools and you'll want to start by turning the nut CCW so that thesmall tension spring that attaches to the switch plunger is slightlyloose @ the grooved pedal pin. With key on, you can then proceed to adjust the nut CW for the proper sensitivity which shouldn't take much.


REFERENCE: http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/25910/377402.aspx#377402
http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/120114/965220.aspx#965220
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Alan, I have adjusted the switch next to the peddle exactly as you have described. The switch is adjusted so that the spring is at it loosest setting (i.e. the plastic nut is turned CCW as far as it will go) in this position it appears to me that there is still too much tension on the spring that operates the plunger in the plastic switch. What this leads me to believe is that the peddle is not being allowed to return far enough up (i.e. there is still too much tension on the spring that actuates the plunger in the switch).


My thought was to adjust the rod from the master cylinder to make it longer (by backing off the lock nut and giving the rod a full turn). The net effect would be that the peddle would be pulled up and the tension on the plunger spring reduced). I arrived at this idea since I had the rod disconnected from the peddle, andwhenI went to reconnect it I had to depress the brake peddle to bring the mount point back far enough to line up with therod at its stock adjustment length. I've checked the peddle for clearance with the pipes and anything else that could be interfering with it.
 

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NorCalWarrior said:
..........................................................................


My thought was to adjust the rod from the master cylinder to make it longer (by backing off the lock nut and giving the rod a full turn). The net effect would be that the peddle would be pulled up and the tension on the plunger spring reduced). I arrived at this idea since I had the rod disconnected from the peddle, andwhenI went to reconnect it I had to depress the brake peddle to bring the mount point back far enough to line up with therod at its stock adjustment length. I've checked the peddle for clearance with the pipes and anything else that could be interfering with it.
OK ... this is a good thing
... I suspect that the party that R&R'd the brake pedal with the Yami billet pedal might have over adjusted the brake pedal push rod. If that was the case then you have the solution.


There are very specific guide lines that Yamaha recommends for this adjustment that was provided in my 1st response as REFERENCE


I suggest you review the1st url which showsa visual check of how far you can lengthen the rod through the peep hole



Brake Lever Adjustment - Advice.http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/25910/377402.aspx#377402


IMO, Yamaha's concern here isthat a certain amount of minimumthreads are always in contact or engagement to prevent buckling at the joint of the threaded rod.


My uptake on all of this is that this has been going on since the addition of the billet brakepedal but i've been wrong before
Bottoming out the tire has no bearing based on a healthy intergrated light.
 

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Brennan,


I've got a complete stock polished footpeg/brake setup with the stockswitch and mount removed and a hydrolic switch in the master cylinder. I can help you install it if your interested when you come to get the velocity stacks. Just a thought.


Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Arizona Warrior said:
May I ask a question? Are you saying you disconnected the rear brake joint rod (#20) from the brake pedal lever (#1), andafter reassembly you had this problem, but not before?

No the problem existed before the removal of the brake rod (item 20) from the peddle assy. I had pulled the rear MC off the frame to get access to the front bolt for the rear shock (1000lb spring install) when i went to bolt the MC back up I couldn't get it to line up (MC was too far forward off by about a 1/16") so I disconnected the rod from the peddle, bolted the MC back into place then reconnected the rod - this is when I noticed that I had to depress the peddle to get the rod hooked up, and hence started asking q's about adjusting the rod.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
AlanH said:
OK ... this is a good thing
... I suspect that the party that R&R'd the brake pedal with the Yami billet pedal might have over adjusted the brake pedal push rod. If that was the case then you have the solution.

I did the billet brake peddle months ago with no i'll effects, and at the time did not adjust the rod at all, only had to adjust the switch


AlanH said:
There are very specific guide lines that Yamaha recommends for this adjustment that was provided in my 1st response as REFERENCE

yep checked that out - thanks!


AlanH said:
http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/25910/377402.aspx#377402


My uptake on all of this is that this has been going on since the addition of the billet brakepedal but i've been wrong before
Bottoming out the tire has no bearing based on a healthy intergrated light.

I'm pretty good about checking the brake light fuction on a regular basis, but it could have intermitently been an issuethe past couple months since the billet peddle install? I think my best bet is to follow the directions in the adjustment thread you provided to get it ship shape and see where that gets me


as always your help is appreciated!
 

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Just an observation. In this conversation there seems to be two assumptions. One, that the rod (20) was not removed or adjusted in relation to the MC. Two, that the action and useability of the rear brake pedal is fine, except the brake light remains illuminated and you have already discounted the front brake lever switch as the culprit, and have already made some determination that the rear brake light switch may be the culprit. What's the interim step?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Arizona Warrior said:
Just an observation. In this conversation there seems to be two assumptions. One, that the rod (20) was not removed or adjusted in relation to the MC. Two, that the action and useability of the rear brake pedal is fine, except the brake light remains illuminated and you have already discounted the front brake lever switch as the culprit, and have already made some determination that the rear brake light switch may be the culprit. What's the interim step?

Not sure I follow but here is what I know (or at least what I think I know)


1) tailight functions correctly - so the brake light issue is not related to the taillight


2) front brake switch is not the culprit as problem persists with front switch disconnected


3) action of rear pedal is fine - no outside interference from pipes etc


4) rear switch works correctly - I can manually tension and untension the spring and get the light to actuate and cancel


5) At this point the culprit appears to be the adjustable rod from the rear MC to the peddle, as currently adjusted (stock and nevertouched by me since purchasing from the dealer inJune of this year)the switch adjusting nut for the switch is cranked down to provide the least amount of tension on the spring, yet the switch is at it's tripping point (i.e the slightest amount of tension will actuate the light, and the slightest amount of un-tension will cancel it) so the only thing left to adjust is the rod, I figure one full revolution will take enough tension off the switch to cancel the light and provide for reliable on/off function of the brake light.
 

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I had a similar issue after installing chrome front pegs and rear brake lever. The brake light stayed on constantly.I deduced that excess spring tension was the culprit. Until reading this thread today I did not know that the switch sensitivity was adjustable. However, I solved my issue by bending the lower loop end of the spring slightly with a needle nose pliers to extend the spring length. It worked.
 

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NorCalWarrior ....


Not to sound self righteous or condescendingbut at some point in time I’ve had nearly every pc of Yamaha billet on my bike and could write a short and long dissertation on each of them

There are definite differences between the OEM cast component and the USA manufactured billet accessory to account for the adjustment of the brake light switch and an intermittent problem because of the location of the grooved pin that retains the spring to the switch plunger on the billet part.
Lengtheningthepush rod as you suggested earlier will raise the brake pedal and result in additional needed adjustment at the hex collet nut.

Just take caution that the increased length doesn't result in depression ofthe MC piston as mentioned earlier. This willoccur if the brake leverbears against the exhaust heat shield before the peg support casting. 1/16" at the MC mtg holes is enough for the task at hand. Also chk that the switch bracket isn't bent!
 

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Alan is already all over it with a better observation than I could bring forward.Regarding the rod problem, its mysterious for sure and I feel your pain. I hate it when something happens and I didn't document each step to be able to "back-out" of the changes. I'm not saying that's the case here bro, whatI'm saying is, walking thru the steps from what you said you worked on, its hard to figure how the rod rotated isn't it? Unless the brake hose was also removed and the whole MC was rotated while unbolted from the frame maybe? Or do you think the rod length got rotated when it was re-installed onto the lever prior?


Sorry, can you tell I'm interested in your solution! Let me know what the 'fix' is okay?
If it were me I would probably remove the whole kit and use the service manual to re-install and set-up from scratch. It might be easier and fewer grey hairs!
 

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If your light was working fine before you bottomed out, seems to me you should have a wiring problem. I don't see how the rod could be out of adjustment when you can not even back off the set screw. To me your tire must have pulled the wires enough to cause a problem. Just a common sense deduction.To me the brake switch looks very cheap. I got rid of mine and put a pressure switch on,and it has been fine for 1 year so far.
 

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Reddog, did you do that same hydraulic pressure switch, or something different?



Arizona Warrior said:
You should do a write-up in a separate post, with pics and part numbers. Some others might want to follow your lead.
Reddog said:
To me the brake switch looks very cheap. I got rid of mine and put a pressure switch on, and it has been fine for 1 year so far.
 

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I did the same switch that Alan H has posted in his last post. I got mine at BMS. They work great for cleaning up the right foot peg area.
 

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You mean this one? No leaks yet in the year its been installed? Maybe there's different quality switches?I like the simplicity of the switch-and-springrelocation as discussed above, but this seems okay. These are used on cars without leaking is that right? You can tell I'm not very up-to-speed on this mod






Reddog said:
I did the same switch that Alan H has posted in his last post. I got mine at BMS. They work great for cleaning up the right foot peg area.
 
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