RS Warrior Forum banner

61 - 80 of 109 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,726 Posts
Have you run the vin to check for recalls? This can rule out if it's the cps failing or not , one less thing to check off the list of suspects.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
29,221 Posts
Okay great beginning. Toss-out everything prior.

The check-engine-light (cel) illuminates for bulb-test and goes-out. So no errors that can be understood (within yamaha design) by the ECU slash / System. Good to know.

The initial battery voltage seems to read too low to support the sensor array's minimum required voltage after 12v-to-5v transformer reduction. Probably second and etc crank are saddled with the first crank data reported from sensors. Subsequent cranks the meter voltage wavered, but might not have been seen by ecu.

Check the battery neg ground lug near the oil-filler cap.

Check voltage at battery pos-neg (plus a parasitic drain test).

Let's see if the above baseline is met before moving forward.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,019 Posts
You might want to check all your connections for possible corrosion somewhere especially in the heavy cables. A bad connection or corrosion sometimes will pass good voltage until you try and put amps through it at which point there's too much resistance and the volts drop right off. The same thing can happen with a battery that's in bad shape even with a jump charger like you have on it if the battery has a problem inside it will prevent the circuit from passing enough amps.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: arizonawarrior

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #67
Connections checked and lubed. First thing I checked. It never cranked slow like that dragging noise and it always cranked before when cold
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #68
You might want to check all your connections for possible corrosion somewhere especially in the heavy cables. A bad connection or corrosion sometimes will pass good voltage until you try and put amps through it at which point there's too much resistance and the volts drop right off. The same thing can happen with a battery that's in bad shape even with a jump charger like you have on it if the battery has a problem inside it will prevent the circuit from passing enough amps.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Brand new battery today.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,910 Posts
Connections checked and lubed. First thing I checked. It never cranked slow like that dragging noise and it always cranked before when cold
My thoughts follow and yes the starter is dragging for sure:
  1. If you have the proper cca battery and it's new then there is no need to use booster cables
  2. Have you visually validated that the Decomp Solenoid is operating and that its fuse isn't compromised?
  3. Is your Hayabusa Starter Relay capable to handle the current draw of the Warrior Starter and is its polarity the same as the Warrior.
    1. The + Battery connection must connect to the Line side of the 30amp fuse. The load side of the fuse must connect to the Rectifier and the Decomp Solenoid 15A Fuse and I suspect it doesn't!
I think you owe me a Beer but I've been wrong before ;)

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #71
My thoughts follow and yes the starter is dragging for sure:
  1. If you have the proper cca battery and it's new then there is no need to use booster cables
  2. Have you visually validated that the Decomp Solenoid is operating and that its fuse isn't compromised?
  3. Is your Hayabusa Starter Relay capable to handle the current draw of the Warrior Starter and is its polarity the same as the Warrior.
    1. The + Battery connection must connect to the Line side of the 30amp fuse. The load side of the fuse must connect to the Rectifier and the Decomp Solenoid 15A Fuse and I suspect it doesn't!
I think you owe me a Beer but I've been wrong before ;)


I didn’t know about the fuse, I’ll check that today. Took wires off and cleaned the connections with a wire wheel. Only used the jump box so it wouldn’t kill the new battery.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,230 Posts
Hello, reading the whole post I am wondering if it has been resolved? Great job everyone, chasing down all the variables! Stay with it, you are close to conquering it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #73
Hello, reading the whole post I am wondering if it has been resolved? Great job everyone, chasing down all the variables! Stay with it, you are close to conquering it!
Nope. Still the slow dragging sound, even with the plugs out
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,910 Posts
Nope. Still the slow dragging sound, even with the plugs out
Post a high resolution photo of your Hayabusa starter relay so I/we can see the connections.
  • You've never stated whether the Decomp Sol is operating when you press the starter PB
It's imperative that the Decomp Sol is wired as per my #70 contribution and that the fuse isn't compromised.
You can also pull the starter and check on bench with known good 12vdc battery for drag
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
29,221 Posts
ADDED: okay I see the starter is still dragging, so my question below is unlikely helpful lol. Never mind!

Iroc, what happened when you investigated the hyabusa starter relay as was suggested above?

Does anyone know if the Warrior has a fusible-link? I'm unable to have a look right now. I do not recall seeing the wire-symbol in the diagram. But if one exists and the hyabusa relay is opposite pole then I wonder if the fusible-link would burn. Either way, it would be time to revisit continuity.
 
61 - 80 of 109 Posts
Top