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Discussion Starter #1
Gday all,

Day 2 ownership and I’ve already a couple of issues. Hopefully nothing major.

#1 is the chattering clicking noise when turning off with the kill switch. Which I see is mentioned a lot, Bulbs have not been changed to LED but the number plate LED wires are broken.

#2 is sometimes the start button won’t start. I’ve done a search and plenty of info as to possible causes such as switch contacts.

I also came back to the shed and found the bike chattering away to itself, the same noise as the kill switch turn off issue, the keys were in ignition but not left on, and it wasn’t making noises when I left it previously. I checked the battery volts and they were down to around 11.7 so I’m hoping the issues are all battery related.
Is this bike smart enough to earn the owner of low battery volts?

I’ve stuck it on the charger and will let it do it’s thing overnight.

Last minor issue I found and It could also be related to the chattering is the LED number plate wires had broken. From memory 14 years ago it was popular to modify the number plate bracket. That’s ok but my plate is on an angle and Mr Policeman wouldn’t approve.

cheers
Baldy.
 

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Its mostly all related to not having the front running lights and the license plate light.

When the stock front turn signals are removed, the front running lights are also removed. Sometimes you need to check if the filaments are blown or some odd thing. The stock front bulbs in most countries are two-filament bulbs. One filament is turn signal and the other filament in the bulb is the running light. That running light filament is wired to the blue wire inside the headlight. You can wire the coil-side of a micro-relay to that blue wire to solve. A relay lasts a long time so is a good solution. Others use certain resistors or even a filament light bulb inside the headlight bucket or under the seat, but they transfer more heat and may fail more frequently in which case the trouble unexpectedly returns.

There are a zillion COD posts here. And plently of confusion. Just focus on the front RUNNING LIGHT circuit and the LICENSE PLATE LIGHT circuit for your solution. Its acually a simple fix.

The start button thing might be related to the low battery voltage. The system will cause the check engine light to flash during starting if the battery voltage is inadequate. But its not a perfect system. Fix COD first and see if this is also solved.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for you reply, I understand it’s been well documented, I’ve spent the last 4 hours reading all I can.

I’m not sure what you refer to as the front running lights? My Australian Warrior has a headlight and front and rear indicators, I’ve removed one front clear indicator cover to check if they were LED but they are filament bulbs, all indicators work. The only thing I’m not sure is the rear number plate bracket, it has a built in LED strip and the wires are broken to that.

I’m not savvy with checking wiring etc. If I knew what was referred to as FRONT RUNNING LIGHTS that may help, Could the indicators have dual purpose?

One extra bit of info, when the bike would not start, the warning light flashed a number of times, my manual just says see dealer. And yes I’ve read about dirty contacts as a possible cause.

Cheers & thanks
Baldy
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sorry if I’m repeating myself, I have printed of heaps of info, thinking if I can’t solve it a auto bike sparky could..

My main concern is the COD making its noise long after the bike has been turned off, I went into the shed and it’s chattering away, flattening the battery. Not good if I’m relying on it to start.

Bikes in neutral, ignition off but key was still in ignition, side stand down.

Baldy.
 

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The front turn signals are also the front running lights.
The bulb should be a two filament bulb so when the bike is on, there is a steady light in both front turn signals. Then when using the indicator, one side will flash.
Verify that when running you have functioning lights in there.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
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Thanks for you reply, I understand it’s been well documented, I’ve spent the last 4 hours reading all I can.

I’m not sure what you refer to as the front running lights? My Australian Warrior has a headlight and front and rear indicators, I’ve removed one front clear indicator cover to check if they were LED but they are filament bulbs, all indicators work. The only thing I’m not sure is the rear number plate bracket, it has a built in LED strip and the wires are broken to that.

I’m not savvy with checking wiring etc. If I knew what was referred to as FRONT RUNNING LIGHTS that may help, Could the indicators have dual purpose?

One extra bit of info, when the bike would not start, the warning light flashed a number of times, my manual just says see dealer. And yes I’ve read about dirty contacts as a possible cause.

Cheers & thanks
Baldy
So then the AUS bikes have front signals only, meaning the front bulbs have only 1 filament. Is there an un-used blue color wire inside the headlight bucket? If yes then trace that wire to under the rider seat to attach a solution or just attach the solution in the headlight bucket.

The stock license plate light bulbs are not LED they are incandescent (filament) bulbs. Stock there are two bulbs inside the license plate light. If yours is LED then you do not have any filaments (front or rear of bike) to burn the excess electrical current from the ECU at shut-down. Get a micro-sized lighting relay at a local store and read-up on the several spots it can be connected.
 

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another thing to check!! maybe you've got the european style headlight which houses a running light.. (it's under the main H4 bulb)
If that's the case simply check if it's working and if not replace the bulb.

in the meantime only shut the bike off with the key and the transmission in neutral
 

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Excellent, hoping that's the fix! If there is just one bulb protecting from COD I would still connect a relay for long term dual protection, same as what happens from the factory (whether intentional or not).

In case helpful, connect 85 and 86 (coil side) on a 12 volt 4-wire micro relay to that blue wire (or other selected identified spot). The coil will most often have connections shown on the coil body something like the attached. A 5-wire and a 4-wire relay are shown just in case helpful.

248686


248687


It will work either direction, but if you like being official then connect 85 to blue (or other correct) wire, and 86 to the black ground wire (or other correct ground point). No need to connect the other terminals (but there are variations that could be useful if studied for correctness).

It can be handy to mark this relay "battery saver" or "COD stop" or some descriptive marking, and make a note in your owner manual and service manual showing generally what relay to buy as replacement.
 

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^^^
Perhaps a keying error but If you like being official you'll want to change your suggested sky blue wire (Sb) that is dedicated to the Neutral Switch to the Blue (L) License, Tail & Running Light wires as documented in the Warrior wiring diagram ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Thank you, all good info, Sandytows, Arizona Warrior, Peter Sik & AlanH. I will check a few things, print off all your suggestions and if I can’t work my magic I will show my local bike shop.

Could be a week or so, when I have success I will report back. 👍
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update: I have ordered a LED number plate light so that will take care of the broken wires, I’ve made a new number plate bracket to suit the light. I also noticed there is a LED load resister that can be purchased to overcome the COD when fitting LED.

I’ll try completing the circuit 1st before trying the resister.
248707
 

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Update: I have ordered a LED number plate light so that will take care of the broken wires, I’ve made a new number plate bracket to suit the light. I also noticed there is a LED load resister that can be purchased to overcome the COD when fitting LED.

I’ll try completing the circuit 1st before trying the resister.
View attachment 248707
That load resistor will not fix COD it will fix fastflash. It wires into the turn signal circuit. To fix COD you need a single electrical load in the circuit for the original incandescent license plate bulbs or the front running light bulbs (which happen to share a bulb with the front turn signals). Just because the front bulbs have two filaments does not mean both filaments are powered by same circuit, they are not, they are powered by two different circuits.
 

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I have an led rear light which incorporates the rear blinkers, but I have normal at the front and I get the chattering if I use the kill switch. ( take a breath here ). I thought that if you had globed blinkers you wouldn’t have the problem.
 

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ITS NOT THE BLINKERS.

ITS FROM NOT NOT NOT HAVING AN INCANDESCENT BULB FOR LICENSE PLATE LIGHT AND/OR FOR FRONT RUNNING LIGHTS (if your country has them) THIS HAS NOTHING NOTHING NOTHING TO DO WITH BLINKER LIGHTS.

Removing incandescent blinker lights causes fast-flash. IT DOES NOT CAUSE COD.

Unless the blinker light and the running light are inside the same bulb. But its just side-effect.
 

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I have an led rear light which incorporates the rear blinkers, but I have normal at the front and I get the chattering if I use the kill switch. ( take a breath here ). I thought that if you had globed blinkers you wouldn’t have the problem.
Stryder so that means you got rid of the rear turn signals completely....therefore you will be affected by the COD. Start by turning the bike off in neutral with the key. Stop using the kill switch till you fix the problem.
 

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errr... Hefty.. did you not read what AW just posted??? he'll do himself an accident if he reads this ;)

Indicators have NOTHING to do with COD!!... it's the running lights, tail light and licence plate light! and only 1 of those has to be a filament bulb to prevent COD
 

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Stryder so that means you got rid of the rear turn signals completely....therefore you will be affected by the COD. Start by turning the bike off in neutral with the key. Stop using the kill switch till you fix the problem.
Hey Hefty, I didn’t put the leds in the bike they came with it. I always use the key since finding out.
 
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