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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Like many around here, I have a Churchkey VBAK on my Warrior. While the filters are washable, it's been a few years since the kit was installed. It's finally time to replace the filters outright. I hit up Woody via email, but haven't gotten a reply and want to get this sorted out during my upcoming oil change.

Does anyone know the dimensions of the filters used in the kit so I can look for some adequate replacements (I know I could take them out and measure them, but I only want to take my tank off once)? Also would be grateful for any recommendations for ones as good or better than the ones provided in the kit.

Thanks,
Ryan
 

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If I remember correctly…

K&N Universal Clamp-On Air Intake Filter: High Performance, Premium, Replacement Air Filter: Flange Diameter: 1.875 In, Filter Height: 3.6875 In, Flange Length: 1 In, Shape: Round Tapered, RC-1290 https://a.co/d/6fJcvKf
 

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2004 Yamaha Roadstar Warrior
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If I remember correctly…

K&N Universal Clamp-On Air Intake Filter: High Performance, Premium, Replacement Air Filter: Flange Diameter: 1.875 In, Filter Height: 3.6875 In, Flange Length: 1 In, Shape: Round Tapered, RC-1290 https://a.co/d/6fJcvKf
You are correct. 1290 is the number I remember also.
 

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How many cleanings did you get out of the K&N RC1290 air filters that came with your VBAK kit?

The mini K&N filter for the Linear Control Valve (LCV) can be washed with the same cleaning kit many many many times too.
 

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@commonmanthemes .... I have a spare set of K&N RC-1290 that were purchased from Woody Oct 2006 @ $66.95 Landed to my door ;)
I picked-up the two spares a year after installing his V-BAK to facilitate a quick R&R when cleaning was req'd for the filters and eliminating the down time for the filters to dry after washing.
My last R&R here: K&N Rechargeable Cone Filters
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How many cleanings did you get out of the K&N RC1290 air filters that came with your VBAK kit?

The mini K&N filter for the Linear Control Valve (LCV) can be washed with the same cleaning kit many many many times too.
So far like 4 over 6 years and 7000+ miles. To be honest, I was never impressed with the quality of the construction on them and it's been a while since the last cleaning. Was just looking to start fresh. Maybe I'll clean them again and return the ones I bought. We'll see what I see when I get in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
@commonmanthemes .... I have a spare set of K&N RC-1290 that were purchased from Woody Oct 2006 @ $66.95 Landed to my door ;)
I picked-up the two spares a year after installing his V-BAK to facilitate a quick R&R when cleaning was req'd for the filters and eliminating the down time for the filters to dry after washing.
My last R&R here: K&N Rechargeable Cone Filters
Wish I could find them at that price. But yeah, that's a good idea... Hang on to the old ones and just alternate so I have plenty of time for cleaning and drying.
 

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If its a rubber area that is damaged or if wire is missing then look into the venturi 's without operating the butterflies. If no debris then operate the butterflies for a look-see.

If it's cotton filter media, no worries it's already burned through.

Or it could be mechanical filter damage, external. Long storage while wet. Rodents. Gremlins :)
 

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The mini K&N filter for the Linear Control Valve (LCV) can be washed with the same cleaning kit many many many times too.
[/QUOTE]

I'll eventually be installing the VBAK I removed from RCOLIGAN2'S bike once my RC-1290 Replacement Filters come in, but I never saw a smaller filter (For the LVC)
Does anyone have a VBAK installed without the LCV filter? Cuz I don't imagine a AIS Block Off kit negates the LCV. Am I missing something?
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You need to filter the intake air delivered through the LCV. Follow the center bigger-diameter hose off the LCV and you will then measure the hose ID and buy a local matching mini-crankcase air filter. When it's time to change it, you can install a K&N version if desired. Example only:

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Separate:
There is also the vent line off the top of the rear valve cover. It points backward. Most of us run a longer hose off the rear valve cover hose nipple, back across the relay well (battery box) and dangle it down above the swingarm relay arm. Some add a cheap filter to it. I did at first. But oil vapor clogs it. Mine has not had a filter on it in years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If its a rubber area that is damaged or if wire is missing then look into the venturi 's without operating the butterflies. If no debris then operate the butterflies for a look-see.

If it's cotton filter media, no worries it's already burned through.

Or it could be mechanical filter damage, external. Long storage while wet. Rodents. Gremlins :)
It was the cotton filter. I'm not worried about that. I was worried about what might've gotten in through where the cotton filter was before it disintegrated (like, who knows how long it had been like that?). She's running strong after the new filters and oil change, though, so I think I'm okay. We'll really see the next time I have it dyno tuned.
 

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I hear ya Ryan. Thsnkfully the Warrior provides good butt-dyno feedback. If it's accelerating smoothly during normal riding and pulls hard when you want it to, and if it doesn't pop-and-complain too much (depending on your mods) then you're good.

For those who study the 'real way' to collect data and calculate mpg, anything over 40 is fine. Or fuel light coming on about 120 miles after a correct fill-up (don't rise above the fill plate). There are several ways to observe positive feedback. And with normal maintenance the drive train is pretty bulletproof.
 
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