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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my clock and trip meters reset themselves. last time this happened i was told it was the battery getting ready to die. i replaced the battery about 8 months ago. now it has happened again. is there something other than a battery problem that can this. the bike starts up fine.
 

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Not likely, it just means that your battery is getting low. Ride and put it on a battery tender and it should not be a problem. Also, make sure that you start the bike in neutral when it is cold to prevent any extra drain on the battery from the clutch plates.
 

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Looks like you have the LED turn signals too. Make sure you are using the key to shut down in Neutral. Otherwise you will get the click until the battery is drained.
 

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Your question has to do with the clock and trip meters resetting themselves. This is most often associated with poor battery voltage, andis very common after winter off-season storage. You should clean the battery connections, and you should charge/float your battery during any storage nore than a week.Based on what you posed, it sounds like yourbattery is sulfated, and therefore producing under 11.5 volts needed to support the ecu. Next stop is being stuck someplace. Best to replace it.


Changing gears a moment to something you didn't mention yourself. There's a lot of misunderstanding so its cool, but respectfully, the click-of-death (COD) is the continued acting of the decompression solonoidon shut-down, andactually it doesn't happen from doing a front signalLEDmod - although you will getfast-flash unless resistance is added. The COD happenswhen you remove the front oem running lights (built into the oem signals but a separate circuit), or swap them to LED's. This is because the filament bulbs in the front oem running lights are also used todrain-on-shutdown remainingvoltage forcertain ecu functions. Without that drain, the next route leads to thedecompression solonoid, which essentialy ismade to believe youare pressing the start button. The COD can be defeated by adding a resistance to the wire that fed the front oem signal bulbs, such asa resistor or a small bulb used or hidden elsewhere. Or it can be 'managed' buy shutting down in neutral using the ignition key.


Since you didn't mention clicking on shutdown I'm guessing this isn't an issue for you. Its just a low battery, maybe from storage without a floater/charger.


Seminole said:
Looks like you have the LED turn signals too. Make sure you are using the key to shut down in Neutral. Otherwise you will get the click until the battery is drained.
 

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Good point Arizona, Also I remember a post a while back whereby certain batteries were replacing the oem battery and the CCA (cold cranking amps) were not as high as the oem battery. Couple that with an untendered battery in winter storage and it could also be the issue. Just my couple pennies worth.
 

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+1. I recently read the average motorcycle battery lasts 24 months, and that tests of dead batteries showed nearly all were sulfated enough to fall below the minimum voltage needed to support the ignition electronics. Most of these batteries were sold with a 48 month pro-rated warranty, so most ofthe folks got half their money toward a replacement battery (often plus labor believe it or not). The same study had a control group that was using a modern charger/floater and none of those failed due to sulfation during the test period (which ran 48 months). That study might be posted in the Downloads section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i have never experienced the click of death problem, but i have heard about it before. thanks.
 
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