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Discussion Starter #1
Lately I have been having a really hard time trying to adjust my clutch cable. Found it works perfect for initial 15 minutes then once the bike is hot it seems to stretch out and I have trouble with finding neutral at the light again.

I have adjusted it at least 6 times already. Signs I need new one? When pulling the clutch in and turning full lock to the left you can feel the cable get much tighter. Full lock right and it gets looser.

Its driving me nuts lol.

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Have a look at the clutch cable where it connects to the clutch lever. Pull the lever and look at the cable seeing if there's any damage.

You may be adjusting it incorrectly.


249380
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Have a look at the clutch cable where it connects to the clutch lever. Pull the lever and look at the cable seeing if there's any damage.

You may be adjusting it incorrectly.


View attachment 249380
I pulled the cable out a few times and inspected it and no damage. All the adjustments I have been doing with the sevice manual and the info on here.

The problem seems to be if i adjust it to s perfect free play, the bike gets hot and the freeplay loosens quite a bit even though no adjusters have moved. Then it gets cold and it's back to normal.


Edit: there is visible rusting in my clear tubes of the oem cables but cant see any damage on the actual cable.

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When your adjusting the cable are your bars turned to the left?
Are you adjusting when the bike is cold?

As the engine heats up the the clutch pack expands thus causing the cable to loosen up.
So it getting looser as you ride is normal.

Try and set the lever gap like my illustration.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When your adjusting the cable are your bars turned to the left?
Are you adjusting when the bike is cold?

As the engine heats up the the clutch pack expands thus causing the cable to loosen up.
So it getting looser as you ride is normal.

Try and set the lever gap like my illustration.
I was adjusting on a cold bike but started adjusting the last few times on a hot bike with bars pointing forward.

I will up with it. Thanks!

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Adjust with bike Hot...
When adjusting on a cold bike gonna give u impression that's it good , but than hot bike
Cable loose...




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Check the return spring is not broken. It is located at the bottom end of the cable, there is a chrome lever about 3"long that the cable connects too. Underneath the lever is a return spring. They have been known to snap. This can cause the problem that your having. Hope this helps... Frec 🇬🇧
 

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This is, IMHO, an interesting read that explains the mechanics of the Yamaha Clutch Cable Engineering! :)
Clutch Component Dynamics 101

Yup, it's interesting how things get lost in translation
  • Item 5 & Item 32 are both listed as PUSH components in the Yamaha Parts Fiche but in the Real World are PULL components as is the Clutch Cable
  • The clutch cable PULLS the Lever 5 CCW which in turn rotates the shaft 7 causing the small pinion near the end to rotate CCW translating the rotary motion to a Linear movement thru the rack gear machined on one face of Item 32 which in turn PULLS against the pressure plate Item 25 via the Bearing Item 30relaxing the clutch plates for shifting.
    • When the engine oil heats up the clutch pack and basket assy also expands and that explains why the clutch cable becomes loosie goosie especially if slipping your clutch while doing a burnout!


Follow the Pope's Instructions HERE!
 

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Lately I have been having a really hard time trying to adjust my clutch cable. Found it works perfect for initial 15 minutes then once the bike is hot it seems to stretch out and I have trouble with finding neutral at the light again.

I have adjusted it at least 6 times already. Signs I need new one? When pulling the clutch in and turning full lock to the left you can feel the cable get much tighter. Full lock right and it gets looser.

Its driving me nuts lol.

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My .02 follows based on "Clutch Component Dynamics 101"

When turning your handlebar FULL Lock LH/RH is affecting the Sheathing (Outer Cover) of the Clutch Cable from Compression to Tension and is Normal and the reason the stranded core free play changes. This will vary based on Manufacturer materials, Cable Length & Routing of the Cable as well as cable stretch.

If each and every one of your 6 Cable adjustments were done in a "CCW" direction @ the Clutch Perch or the Mid-Adjuster then you clutch cable is stretching assuming the adjustment was done with the engine always cold.

IMO adjusting the clutch cable free play (to credit card thickness @ perch) on a hot engine can lead to an over-adjusted cable when the engine is cold. This will result in improper free play between the Pull Rod & T.O. Bearing.
This can cause premature wear or failure to the T.O. Bearing and at worst a slightly slipping clutch until the engine warms up.
  • Clutch Cable adjustment should always be done with the handlebar straight/perpendicular ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My .02 follows based on "Clutch Component Dynamics 101"

When turning your handlebar FULL Lock LH/RH is affecting the Sheathing (Outer Cover) of the Clutch Cable from Compression to Tension and is Normal and the reason the stranded core free play changes. This will vary based on Manufacturer materials, Cable Length & Routing of the Cable as well as cable stretch.

If each and every one of your 6 Cable adjustments were done in a "CCW" direction @ the Clutch Perch or the Mid-Adjuster then you clutch cable is stretching assuming the adjustment was done with the engine always cold.

IMO adjusting the clutch cable free play (to credit card thickness @ perch) on a hot engine can lead to an over-adjusted cable when the engine is cold. This will result in improper free play between the Pull Rod & T.O. Bearing.
This can cause premature wear or failure to the T.O. Bearing and at worst a slightly slipping clutch until the engine warms up.
  • Clutch Cable adjustment should always be done with the handlebar straight/perpendicular ;)
Interesting. So I adjusted it again hot. Now with engine cold it's pretty tight. So you recommended adjusting cold. Well I can try it again both ways!

According to your read it seems normal for the cable to get looser on a hit engine so that makes me feel better at least.

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I clearly state in my last bullet point "Clutch Component Dynamics 101"
  • When the engine oil heats up the clutch pack and basket assy also expands and that explains why the clutch cable becomes loosie goosie especially if slipping your clutch while doing a burnout!
 

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Chomorro remember the handle bar adjustment is the fine tuning. Post a pic of yours as well I remember seeing a pic of your handle bars and the adjustment screw was almost all the way out.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah I'm at a loss. Tried tight where full lever clutch in is inches from the grip and still cant put it in neutral. Loosened it to where a full lever clutch in is almost touches the grip and cant put it in neutral but the clutch wont disengage.

When I say can't put it neutral I mean I cant shift up at all at a stop light.

Took off the linkage again to re measure and adjust again.

I'm wondering if it's my foot shift linkage. The service manual says line up with the opening but mine lined up with.

I might take it to the shop. Never had this problem with any other bike. But not being able to get into neutral is killing my rides.


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Can you get the clutch in neutral without the bike running while pushing the bike forwards or backward ?

Your shift linkage isn't having anything to do with the neutral.

Did you adjust as in my pic? Cold engine and left tilt?

249405
249406
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Can you get the clutch in neutral without the bike running while pushing the bike forwards or backward ?

Your shift linkage isn't having anything to do with the neutral.

Did you adjust as in my pic? Cold engine and left tilt?

View attachment 249405 View attachment 249406
Yes I did. Cant shift and find neutral no problem with engine off.

I will try it again and start from fresh. I did it this morning but no luck.

Actually I do have a question. When fully clutched in, how far is your lever from the grip?

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Actually I do have a question. When fully clutched in, how far is your lever from the grip?

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I can pull the lever to touch grip but that shouldn't matter. Unless you asking how far till the clutch is completely released and in that case it's about 1".

The main part your wanting to concentrate on is the figure D gap.

Keep in mind that when the engine heats to that gap will get bigger which is normal.
And when it cools the gap goes back to the preset gap.

When checking the final gap, pull the lever then let it back slowly without pushing the lever. Then check the gap.

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Also, that pull lever would have to be adjusted properly otherwise it'll give bad gap reading.

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Discussion Starter #18
I can pull the lever to touch grip but that shouldn't matter. Unless you asking how far till the clutch is completely released and in that case it's about 1".

The main part your wanting to concentrate on is the figure D gap.

Keep in mind that when the engine heats to that gap will get bigger which is normal.
And when it cools the gap goes back to the preset gap.

When checking the final gap, pull the lever then let it back slowly without pushing the lever. Then check the gap.

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Yeah thats why I ask. In order my lever to be comfortable the free play has to be extremely loose. With proper free play the clutch lever is very far from the grip. I will take a video of it

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Yeah thats why I ask. In order my lever to be comfortable the free play has to be extremely loose. With proper free play the clutch lever is very far from the grip. I will take a video of it

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I am uploading a video to youtube I made for a few others. It's just a quick video at the spur of the moment. I will post the link here in a bit.

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Discussion Starter #20
I am uploading a video to youtube I made for a few others. It's just a quick video at the spur of the moment. I will post the link here in a bit.

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Thank you! You can send it to me on FB too if you need

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