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Clutch cable diagnosis?

5K views 45 replies 8 participants last post by  Chomorro 
#1 ·
Lately I have been having a really hard time trying to adjust my clutch cable. Found it works perfect for initial 15 minutes then once the bike is hot it seems to stretch out and I have trouble with finding neutral at the light again.

I have adjusted it at least 6 times already. Signs I need new one? When pulling the clutch in and turning full lock to the left you can feel the cable get much tighter. Full lock right and it gets looser.

Its driving me nuts lol.

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#2 ·
Have a look at the clutch cable where it connects to the clutch lever. Pull the lever and look at the cable seeing if there's any damage.

You may be adjusting it incorrectly.


249380
 
#3 ·
I pulled the cable out a few times and inspected it and no damage. All the adjustments I have been doing with the sevice manual and the info on here.

The problem seems to be if i adjust it to s perfect free play, the bike gets hot and the freeplay loosens quite a bit even though no adjusters have moved. Then it gets cold and it's back to normal.


Edit: there is visible rusting in my clear tubes of the oem cables but cant see any damage on the actual cable.

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#4 ·
When your adjusting the cable are your bars turned to the left?
Are you adjusting when the bike is cold?

As the engine heats up the the clutch pack expands thus causing the cable to loosen up.
So it getting looser as you ride is normal.

Try and set the lever gap like my illustration.
 
#7 ·
Check the return spring is not broken. It is located at the bottom end of the cable, there is a chrome lever about 3"long that the cable connects too. Underneath the lever is a return spring. They have been known to snap. This can cause the problem that your having. Hope this helps... Frec 🇬🇧
 
#8 ·
This is, IMHO, an interesting read that explains the mechanics of the Yamaha Clutch Cable Engineering! :)
Clutch Component Dynamics 101

Yup, it's interesting how things get lost in translation
  • Item 5 & Item 32 are both listed as PUSH components in the Yamaha Parts Fiche but in the Real World are PULL components as is the Clutch Cable
  • The clutch cable PULLS the Lever 5 CCW which in turn rotates the shaft 7 causing the small pinion near the end to rotate CCW translating the rotary motion to a Linear movement thru the rack gear machined on one face of Item 32 which in turn PULLS against the pressure plate Item 25 via the Bearing Item 30relaxing the clutch plates for shifting.
    • When the engine oil heats up the clutch pack and basket assy also expands and that explains why the clutch cable becomes loosie goosie especially if slipping your clutch while doing a burnout!


Follow the Pope's Instructions HERE!
 
#9 ·
Lately I have been having a really hard time trying to adjust my clutch cable. Found it works perfect for initial 15 minutes then once the bike is hot it seems to stretch out and I have trouble with finding neutral at the light again.

I have adjusted it at least 6 times already. Signs I need new one? When pulling the clutch in and turning full lock to the left you can feel the cable get much tighter. Full lock right and it gets looser.

Its driving me nuts lol.

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My .02 follows based on "Clutch Component Dynamics 101"

When turning your handlebar FULL Lock LH/RH is affecting the Sheathing (Outer Cover) of the Clutch Cable from Compression to Tension and is Normal and the reason the stranded core free play changes. This will vary based on Manufacturer materials, Cable Length & Routing of the Cable as well as cable stretch.

If each and every one of your 6 Cable adjustments were done in a "CCW" direction @ the Clutch Perch or the Mid-Adjuster then you clutch cable is stretching assuming the adjustment was done with the engine always cold.

IMO adjusting the clutch cable free play (to credit card thickness @ perch) on a hot engine can lead to an over-adjusted cable when the engine is cold. This will result in improper free play between the Pull Rod & T.O. Bearing.
This can cause premature wear or failure to the T.O. Bearing and at worst a slightly slipping clutch until the engine warms up.
  • Clutch Cable adjustment should always be done with the handlebar straight/perpendicular ;)
 
#10 ·
My .02 follows based on "Clutch Component Dynamics 101"

When turning your handlebar FULL Lock LH/RH is affecting the Sheathing (Outer Cover) of the Clutch Cable from Compression to Tension and is Normal and the reason the stranded core free play changes. This will vary based on Manufacturer materials, Cable Length & Routing of the Cable as well as cable stretch.

If each and every one of your 6 Cable adjustments were done in a "CCW" direction @ the Clutch Perch or the Mid-Adjuster then you clutch cable is stretching assuming the adjustment was done with the engine always cold.

IMO adjusting the clutch cable free play (to credit card thickness @ perch) on a hot engine can lead to an over-adjusted cable when the engine is cold. This will result in improper free play between the Pull Rod & T.O. Bearing.
This can cause premature wear or failure to the T.O. Bearing and at worst a slightly slipping clutch until the engine warms up.
  • Clutch Cable adjustment should always be done with the handlebar straight/perpendicular ;)
Interesting. So I adjusted it again hot. Now with engine cold it's pretty tight. So you recommended adjusting cold. Well I can try it again both ways!

According to your read it seems normal for the cable to get looser on a hit engine so that makes me feel better at least.

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#11 ·
I clearly state in my last bullet point "Clutch Component Dynamics 101"
  • When the engine oil heats up the clutch pack and basket assy also expands and that explains why the clutch cable becomes loosie goosie especially if slipping your clutch while doing a burnout!
 
#13 ·
Yeah I'm at a loss. Tried tight where full lever clutch in is inches from the grip and still cant put it in neutral. Loosened it to where a full lever clutch in is almost touches the grip and cant put it in neutral but the clutch wont disengage.

When I say can't put it neutral I mean I cant shift up at all at a stop light.

Took off the linkage again to re measure and adjust again.

I'm wondering if it's my foot shift linkage. The service manual says line up with the opening but mine lined up with.

I might take it to the shop. Never had this problem with any other bike. But not being able to get into neutral is killing my rides.


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#14 ·
Can you get the clutch in neutral without the bike running while pushing the bike forwards or backward ?

Your shift linkage isn't having anything to do with the neutral.

Did you adjust as in my pic? Cold engine and left tilt?

249405
249406
 
#15 ·
Yes I did. Cant shift and find neutral no problem with engine off.

I will try it again and start from fresh. I did it this morning but no luck.

Actually I do have a question. When fully clutched in, how far is your lever from the grip?

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#17 ·
Also, that pull lever would have to be adjusted properly otherwise it'll give bad gap reading.

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#23 ·
Readjusted again like your video. I'm at 1 1/4" clocked with no spring pressure or cable attached. With cable attached and full lever grip I move to 1". This is how far my lever is from my grip full pull in with proper freeplay and tilted handle bars.

Will ride again tomorrow and check again.

I have not pulled the cable yet but I can try that next. Thanks guys


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#22 ·
@Chomorro do you have small hands that are great for working in tight spaces but not for clutches?

I ask because you need to adjust the clutch to spec so it will operate well across temperature ranges. But there are levers made for small hands. Maybe that solution will work?

If it were me, I would uninstall the clutch cable, grab the manual, verify the lever on the motor case is correctly oriented (clocked), verify the center adjuster on the cable is correctly set, verify the handlebar lever adjuster is correctly set, and verify the overall cable length is correct and cable/ends are good.

Then install the cable and warm the bike. Then make first cable adjustments at the center adjuster while warm. Then fine-tune using the handlebar lever adjuster. Leave a gap in the handlebar lever about as thick as a credit card when warm.

That should allow the clutch to operate in all temperatures.

Then address the lever style to fit small hands if that is the trouble. No worries.

Hope this helps brother!
 
#26 ·
Well good and bad news gents.

Good news it's not ME and it's not YOU ahhaha. Took the bike to the shop and confirmed everything is adjusted properly. He immediately said there is something wrong with the clutch basket as soon as he pulled the lever. It's not full disengaging and getting hung up on something.

Clutches are out of my wheel house so I left the the bike there for a $100 diagnosis. Getting a front tire put on as well.

Thanks everyone for all the help! Hoping it's nothing crazy expensive.

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#28 ·
2007 with 13880 miles. The tech was saying he thinks its something simple and wont cost me anything other then the diagnosis fee but we will see. If I need a new clutch I might as well upgrade.

I have had this problem since purchase almost 2k miles ago so its possible there has been a problem on the bike for a very long time and it was never addressed.

When I first picked it up the lever freeplay was extremely loose. I corrected it and it fixed it for first few minutes of the first ride but then came back

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#32 · (Edited)
Well turns out my release bearing was toast and some of my clutch plates were stuck together but still working. Bearing is 27 bucks but I think I want to do a barnetts clutch kit and spring upgrade since I'm in there already.

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#40 ·
Great news, ebay sux, buy the SR-2 kit for $150 direct from manufacturer. I see Amazon has $130. Also look at Yamaha clutch discs and basket bearings at Partzilla and other sites. Frak ebay.

Ref: Yamaha Spring Conversion Kit
 
#34 ·
Chances are all the plates are still good. Frictions and steels alike.
Barnett is a good upgrade, but there has been some.issues with the newer ones bearings. I don't really know what the issues is but theres been alot of talk about it on here.
And look into the 2-3 full plate mod. It's a great upgrade.
If you're reasonable handy with a wrench, the clutch isn't that hard and Rudy has a great write up.on how to do it.
The hardest part for me was getting the old gasket off.
I did the 3 full plate mod with Barnett and my clutch is tight!

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#35 ·
I'm not one to work on clutches so maybe oem is for me lol.

Mechanic said this is most likely what happened "Pretty sure what happened is it sit for a long period seizing the clutch plates together. Once started again some plates broke free, some didn't. Unevenly engaging causing stress on bearing."

Previous owner drove it maybe once every 3 months on battery tender and I'm riding this thing daily.

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#36 ·
Your shop should be able to do the Barnett upgrade and the full.plate mod.

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#37 ·
Oh no I meant if bearings fail etc I dont want to be constantly taking apart the clutch basket since

I want the lightest lever pull I can get too since I am always in traffic so oem is good enough for me.

If it fails again I will pull it all myself and do the upgrade for sure.

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