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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a warrior last week. This is my first bike that wasnt a sport bike, I also havent ridden in about 8 years. I am having difficulty maneuvering the bike at slow speeds. Partially because the clitch is really stiff. and the friction zone is really small and about 1/4 inch from the clutch lever being fully released.

Not being used to a heavier bike and not riding for 8 years probably doesnt help either. I remember being able to feather my clutch and counter lean my gsxr so easily though. I could u turn it in 2 parking space width. I never had fear of throwing it down putting my body weight the opposite direction and feathering the clutch to keep the bike from tipping. The friction zone was also way deeper into the lever pull and the bike was half the weight.

The warrior has a barnett clutch I'm assuming 3 plate conversion with I dont what size steel springs. I'm assuming its 3 plate because I got the box with the old clutch components and the pin to take the 3rd plate out was in it.

I'm not really familiar with working on clutches but am pretty mechanical and will try almosg anything.

Is there anything I can do to make the friction zone larger and deeper into the lever pull. Also a little less stiff?

The bike was listed for sale on here by a member a couple years ago and the previous owner bought it from him but he doesnt know much about the bike.

Search green indiana bagger and you will see the listing.
Maybe some of you recognize it and may know more about it?
248584
 

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Actually, here's all the parts left over from a 3 full friction plate mod and the Barnett pressure plate.
248588
248589
 

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Maybe keep the barnett's but go to the softer springs.
Also I think that without Ivans flash the throttle will be choppy at low rpms and make feathering the throttle at low rpm difficult.
Take a look at the ECU under the seat does it have an "Ivans" sticker or an ID number engraved in it.
The warrior is a long bike it won't turn at slow speeds like your sport bike. Plus with that fairing you're carrying more weight on the handlebars that your used to.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you. That looks exactly like what I have left.


That is the post for the bike with all the mods done.

There wouldnt be a way to adjust the friction zone while using the Barnett's? Or possibly using different springs or other components? I'd hate to waste it. I think i saw a video where a guy used the stock part with the arrow pointing to it in the picture of the left over parts I have. I think he said it wasn't as thick and made the clitch easier to pull. I'm not entirely sure though. I don't know how this all works fully.
248593
 

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You can adjust the clutch lever freeplay at the lever and in the middle of the cable to try to get a better feel. I sounds like you may want to loosen it up a bit so the lever is closer to the bar for engagement and disengagement.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Maybe keep the barnett's but go to the softer springs.
Also I think that without Ivans flash the throttle will be choppy at low rpms and make feathering the throttle at low rpm difficult.
Take a look at the ECU under the seat does it have an "Ivans" sticker or an ID number engraved in it.
The warrior is a long bike it won't turn at slow speeds like your sport bike. Plus with that fairing you're carrying more weight on the handlebars that your used to.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Theres no Ivan's sticker or number. How do i get that done? Do I have to change the part I pointed out in the picture? Isnt that called a spring plate? Or the colored springs inside? The bike is definitely more weight than I'm used to and the handlebars are heavier. I find the bars locking when I'm turning at the slow speeds and the way the clutch and throttle is makes it insanely difficult to slowly accelerate out of it like I need to. It feels like only a matter of time before the bars lock and I cant pull out of it and the bike goes down right as I pull out of my driveway or something lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You can adjust the clutch lever freeplay at the lever and in the middle of the cable to try to get a better feel. I sounds like you may want to loosen it up a bit so the lever is closer to the bar for engagement and disengagement.
I did that already. I ran it all the way in. Is that the right way? It made it a little better but it's still horrible
 

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I did that already. I ran it all the way in. Is that the right way? It made it a little better but it's still horrible
In the same service manual is the complete clutch cable set-up. Loosen it all both ends and middle and detach, and start from scratch. Notice the angle of the push-pull lever on the motor case before re-connecting the cable at that end. The wrong angle makes the clutch heavy and causes broken cable ends.
 

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Based on your enclosed photo the OO did indeed do the "3 full friction plate mod" and the reason for the loss of the Factory Modulation of the clutch assy IMO. It also appears that he reused the existing factory parts and picked up (3) full friction discs only because of the low mileage on his ride.

I would suggest you reinstall the OEM built-in Damper parts with a new wire circlip and also the other (2) OEM half friction discs & related steel parts and reuse the Barnett PP with Gold springs. You'll have full modulation IMO.
  • For reassembly, DO NOT USE THE www PARTS FICHE!
    • Use the YFSM - I've enclosed a modified cut-sheet with damper parts by this writer for reference only.
  • Do your due diligence for any nicking or damage, at the friction disc Tab contact surface @ the Clutch Basket and the splined contact surface @ the Clutch Boss from running w/o the original factory cushioned parts.
  • Also, the steel clutch plates are a die stamping and have 1-sharp edge & 1-rounded edge. Arrange the steel plates before installing so that ALL the edges are in the same direction. Doesn't matter what edge faces the Boss, just that they ALL go in the same direction IMHO :)

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Based on your enclosed photo the OO did indeed do the "3 full friction plate mod" and the reason for the loss of the Factory Modulation of the clutch assy IMO. It also appears that he reused the existing factory parts and picked up (3) full friction discs only because of the low mileage on his ride.

I would suggest you reinstall the OEM built-in Damper parts with a new wire circlip and also the other (2) OEM half friction discs & related steel parts and reuse the Barnett PP with Gold springs. You'll have full modulation IMO.
  • For reassembly, DO NOT USE THE www PARTS FICHE!
    • Use the YFSM - I've enclosed a modified cut-sheet with damper parts by this writer for reference only.
  • Do your due diligence for any nicking or damage, at the friction disc Tab contact surface @ the Clutch Basket and the splined contact surface @ the Clutch Boss from running w/o the original factory cushioned parts.
  • Also, the steel clutch plates are a die stamping and have 1-sharp edge & 1-rounded edge. Arrange the steel plates before installing so that ALL the edges are in the same direction. Doesn't matter what edge faces the Boss, just that they ALL go in the same direction IMHO :)


So basically put it back to stock besides the pressure plate and coiled springs?
 

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That's what I would do! You'll want to inspect existing parts for wear and tear :>)
There is better modulation with the coil springs (that are linear) than the complex Diaphragm Spring forces!
 

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If you want more control of the friction zone (not so sudden engagement) you'll wanna put the boss assembly back to stock.

Keeping the 2 Full friction plates in the rest of the clutch makes the lever pull easier then with the stock half plates, so I'd leave those in.
A new stock diaphram spring will give you the lightest easiest lever pull and will last a long time.
The 2 Full friction plates will help grab and give a stronger longer lasting clutch in benefit of the stock diaphram spring.

The Barnett pressure plate can be sold to another member and will cover your new diaphram spring.

Here's probably the cheesiest new diaphragm spring you'll find.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If you want more control of the friction zone (not so sudden engagement) you'll wanna put the boss assembly back to stock.

Keeping the 2 Full friction plates in the rest of the clutch makes the lever pull easier then with the stock half plates, so I'd leave those in.
A new stock diaphram spring will give you the lightest easiest lever pull and will last a long time.
The 2 Full friction plates will help grab and give a stronger longer lasting clutch in benefit of the stock diaphram spring.

The Barnett pressure plate can be sold to another member and will cover your new diaphram spring.

Here's probably the cheesiest new diaphragm spring you'll find.
Can I use the stock diaphragm spring that I already have?
248631
 

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I wouldn't. I'm sure it's not to strong anymore. You'll get clutch slip and have to go back in the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So the barnett pressure plate replaces the boss assembly? Just take it out and replace with boss assembly and diaphragm spring, adjust and I'm good to go? Sorry I have limited knowledge on clutches and I didbt do the mod in the first place
 

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So the barnett pressure plate replaces the boss assembly? Just take it out and replace with boss assembly and diaphragm spring, adjust and I'm good to go? Sorry I have limited knowledge on clutches and I didbt do the mod in the first place
No, the Purple Barnett pressure plate replaces the stock pressure plate assembly.
248638


The boss assembly is the farthest parts in the clutch.
248639



Here's the parts you want to put back in and remove the 1 Full friction plate.
248640

Don't worry about asking questions.
 
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