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Here's a couple of interesting links that will be useful for the R&R:
The 1st link is an '04' Warrior with slightly different parts.
The 2nd link is equivalent to your year but also includes the R&R of the oil tank which isn't pertinent for your repair but has some excellent photos and dialog.

IMO … the task at hand is NOT a complicated repair at all. You'll just need basic metric tools.

The most difficult task you have is loosening the secondary drive spindle crush nut, Item #44 (on transmission output shaft).
An impact wrench would do the deed or alternately a helping hand restraining the middle shaft with a plumbers wrench or large channel locks.
gl
 

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Discussion Starter #22
That middle shaft is chatarra (scrap) and wont work even if you flip the front pulley around. There aren't enough threads on the shaft to torque the pulley nut and go for a ride to 7 Eleven.

The close fit of the pulley & middle shaft splines is very critical as is the torque value so if you purchase used parts you'll want to do your due diligence.

Bottom shaft in photo is new design middle shaft that fits your ride :)



Middle Shaft Replacement '04' Warrior
I'm getting ready to purchase parts for the fix and though I have not disassembled anything on the bike yet, it looks like the current shaft on my bike has a lot less thread on it than the one pictured above for the pulley to connect to. I think mine looks more like the top shaft rather than the bottom one pictured above. I have an 06' and if I understand the material and threads I've read the last couple days, my bike should already have the new design correct? Or is the "new design" the OEM replacement part that's available now?
 

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I'm getting ready to purchase parts for the fix and though I have not disassembled anything on the bike yet, it looks like the current shaft on my bike has a lot less thread on it than the one pictured above for the pulley to connect to. I think mine looks more like the top shaft rather than the bottom one pictured above. I have an 06' and if I understand the material and threads I've read the last couple days, my bike should already have the new design correct? Or is the "new design" the OEM replacement part that's available now?
Order for your year and above otherwise you'll have to order other parts to make the earlier shaft usable in your bike.
 

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Like Alan stated, the bottom shaft is the one for 06 and newer.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
All my parts have arrived, the bike is dismantled and everything is cleaned and ready for the install. I have a couple quick questions before getting at it tonight. Thanks for the help with this!


  1. The YSM shows the Conical Spring Washer has been replaced with a "new" part which is the Tabbed Washer. When I ordered the part from Partzilla, #45, they sent the OEM washer not the "new" one. I assume I will be ok with this for now but should I plan on ordering and replacing that or wait to see if there is an issue in the future and replace it then? Also, should I have contacted them directly for the updated replacement or did they make a mistake with what was sent?
  2. When I replace the transfer case gasket do I need to do anything to the surfaces other that having them completely clean? The seal is made via compression with the proper torque on the bolts correct?
 

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All my parts have arrived, the bike is dismantled and everything is cleaned and ready for the install. I have a couple quick questions before getting at it tonight. Thanks for the help with this!


  1. The YSM shows the Conical Spring Washer has been replaced with a "new" part which is the Tabbed Washer. When I ordered the part from Partzilla, #45, they sent the OEM washer not the "new" one. I assume I will be ok with this for now but should I plan on ordering and replacing that or wait to see if there is an issue in the future and replace it then? Also, should I have contacted them directly for the updated replacement or did they make a mistake with what was sent?
  2. When I replace the transfer case gasket do I need to do anything to the surfaces other that having them completely clean? The seal is made via compression with the proper torque on the bolts correct?
Which washer here are you talking about? https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2006/road-star-midnight-warrior-xv17pcmv/middle-drive-gear
 

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Its part #45, on the main drive sprocket.
The manual is saying to replace it with a new one and not use the old one. Your fine with the new one you got. As for the gasket just have everything clean and torque to spec for the seal.
 

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#45 is the correct washer for an 06 up. If it looks gear shaped in the center hole you have the 05 and later and it will not work right.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Got the bike back together today and took it for a run! Everything seems to be working properly and there were no extra parts in the end! Finally getting to experience what Ivan's flash and the new 31T pulley feel like and i couldn't be happier, the bike feels completely different!
The install of the middle shaft and front pulley went really well. Honestly, the most difficult part of the entire project was getting the exhaust back on, which was a major pain in the a$$! Thank's for all the help on here, I greatly appreciate it!
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Hey guys, I'm looking for a little help here before moving forward! I was in the process of finishing the Nude Pulley Mod this afternoon and before I button everything up and put the cover piece over the exposed part the the middle shaft and nut, I wanted to make sure everything was good to go with the front pulley.
When I opened up the pulley cover the nut was not as tight as it should be but everything else looked to be in its proper place. I replaced the middle shaft last year when it stripped out so I guess I'm a little gun shy at this point, with the help from the forum I thought everything went well and the fix was done but I'd like some feedback before I button everything back up.
Does anyone have a pic of what their pulley set up looks like with the "new" washer installed? That's the only thing that looks out of place to me. This may seem like an obvious question but should the gear shaped washer be fitting over the splines of the shaft, the nut tightened down and the tabs folded over? I hope I didn't screw things up but in looking at things now there doesn't appear to be enough exposed spline pushing through the pulley for the teeth for the new washer to fit over. I want to get this locked in and to be confident with the fix before moving forward. Does it look like the shaft needs to be pushed further in so the washer has teeth to grip onto? I'd just like to get some feedback before tearing into this job from the other side again. Thanks!
247491
 

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I took the bike out (06') for a spin yesterday and was leisurely riding some back roads after getting everything dialed in with the PCIII, Ivan's Flash then the fuel leak issues so I wasn't getting on the bike hard or anything crazy just enjoying the weather and a beautiful ride. When I was coming down a hill I gave it a little gas and nothing happened, the engine rev'd but didn't engage and move me forward, I was just coasting. I looked down thinking I broke the belt and it was still intact. I coasted down to where it was flat to give it a better look. While I was stopped, I got it into 1st gear and gave it a little gas and it was grinding and I initially thought the belt came off the front pulley and wasn't catching, I put it in 2nd and got the same result. I got it back down to 1st gear and it caught and everything felt normal. I rode for a bit on my way back to the house maybe another 20min or so. About 3miles from the house on the main road, it gave out again and would not engage. I put it in gear and gave it a touch of gas while looking in at the front pulley and everything looked good there with the belt, pulley etc... There was a grinding and vibration from what I'm guessing is the clutch case, like there are metal parts that are spinning but not engaging and in sync. I adjusted some of my clutch from the handlebars as I knew that was something I needed to do anyways and didn't get any where, I tried shifting up a couple gears and got nothing but grinding and didn't want to mess anything up further. I called for a tow and the bike now sits in my garage.

My initial thought is that the clutch plates are all shot and need to be replaced. I'm all about continuing to learn about my bike and fix things but I'm not entirely sure where to start looking to diagnose the issue and plan the fix and getting into this area of the bike I don't want to mess anything up further that it already is. I could use a little help on where to begin looking in diagnosing, I'm pretty handy but sometime lack the technical language until I've looked at pictures and have done some research with the Forum, the manual and google. Thank you for any help!
 

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It's fine.
That washer doesn't lock into the spline.
You indent the thin nut end into those notches on the shaft to lock it in.
You have to tighten the nut to 110ftlbs then lock it to the shaft notches

Rudy Jeremias (rij1)
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Thanks Rudy. I wasn’t indenting the notches on the nut with the new washer. I thought the folding of the tabs on the washer did the trick.
 

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Thanks Rudy. I wasn’t indenting the notches on the nut with the new washer. I thought the folding of the tabs on the washer did the trick.
Your model year doesn't use the Tabbed splined washer. This was brought to light early on in one of my responses to this thread. You need to use the conical diaphragm washer (the washer is marked for direction) for the late install. Torque to 110 lb~ft and dimple the new spindle nut as per the manual supplement enclosed :)

 

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I just re-read everything in this thread from #1 post. Just for re-re-re-clarification, the 'old' front pulley nut uses the tabbed washer (your several posts seem to indicate your belief the tabbed washer was the newest part). The e-copy YSM has the original 2002 manual, plus two update sections. The new hardware for your model year Warrior is the conical washer shown in a few reply posts and in the e-copy YSM addendum.

If you applied the old original tabbed washer to your newer model Warrior, it is no surprise it came loose and you need to again inspect the shaft thread. Suggest you also revisit the part number for the shaft and all hardware you bought and installed last summer, with an eye to model year.

Additionally, post pics and part number of the nude pulley kit. I believe the original Yamaha kit does not play well with the newer short-thread shaft. There is a thread covering an adapter plate work-around.

I think it seems to me, re-visiting all of this conversation, that you might have made assumptions that appear logical and derivative but actually are opposite of the model year improvements. In 20-20 hindsight your comments seem to point that direction anyway. So it should be revisited before you continue.

Suggest you post fresh pics of your installed shaft and all hardware, plus pics of nude pulley kit complete. Its the only way to re-set the conversation details and to highlight misunderstandings.

If I'm wrong then I will be the one getting the re-set but we will all know where things sit for your repair.

Hey guys, I'm looking for a little help here before moving forward! I was in the process of finishing the Nude Pulley Mod this afternoon and before I button everything up and put the cover piece over the exposed part the the middle shaft and nut, I wanted to make sure everything was good to go with the front pulley.
When I opened up the pulley cover the nut was not as tight as it should be but everything else looked to be in its proper place. I replaced the middle shaft last year when it stripped out so I guess I'm a little gun shy at this point, with the help from the forum I thought everything went well and the fix was done but I'd like some feedback before I button everything back up.
Does anyone have a pic of what their pulley set up looks like with the "new" washer installed? That's the only thing that looks out of place to me. This may seem like an obvious question but should the gear shaped washer be fitting over the splines of the shaft, the nut tightened down and the tabs folded over? I hope I didn't screw things up but in looking at things now there doesn't appear to be enough exposed spline pushing through the pulley for the teeth for the new washer to fit over. I want to get this locked in and to be confident with the fix before moving forward. Does it look like the shaft needs to be pushed further in so the washer has teeth to grip onto? I'd just like to get some feedback before tearing into this job from the other side again. Thanks!
View attachment 247491
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Thank you guys for your patience and for going back through the thread, I truly appreciate the help! I'm planning on getting to my house tonight and into the garage to do some work on the bike after I finish an exhaust fix on my Tacoma, daily driver takes precedence.
I'm fairly certain I know where the problem is and unfortunately I didn't catch it until now. When I placed my order with Partzilla I confirmed that all the parts were for my model year. In that order was the correct Conical Washer but the one that was sent was the tabbed gear shaped washer. I will see if the old Conical Washer that I took off this summer is in my parts bin if not I'll need to purchase a new one. The splines of the shaft are fine as well as the pulley, there appears to be no wear so I think I dodged the bullet. For the nude pulley or whatever the mod is called, is one that I'm doing myself not a kit. I drilled out the center of the pulley cover, sanded and polished the aluminum and put that back on. I'll report back once I get to the house tonight.
 
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