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Discussion Starter #1
Some of these used to be in posts someplace but I'm not finding them anymore. I'm collecting the dimensions for all the under-tank and side-mount coil relocation plates I can find. I already have an Akitadog VBAK coil relo-plate, andWoody'ssensor-only relo-plate from his VBAK. Does anyone have a Baron'sor Akitadog's BAK coil relo plate? Are thereother plates out there?


My plan is to determine ifDynatek DC2-1 coils fit these plates with enough clearance so the power wires to the coils don't arc to the plate. The only case where I thought this happened, well, I was mistaken. However most guys using the relo-plates keep the stock coils, andmight not go Dynatekuntil their coils fade out. The DC2-1's are slightly larger in length, and could be largerin diameter but I'm not sure yet.


While I'monly interested in the coil opening dimensions, I need all the dimensions to be sure that opening-up one dimension doesn't affect another component's living space.


Has anyone already done this work?
 

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Redhorse has a link to BillH1943 that probably no longer works and i've seenscannedandcad formats that was offered in the earlier years but nothing that i saved.


EDITED: The primary of the coil is only 12v and not an issue at all. Because they are located verticallywhen mounted to the coil relocate plate the top female connectionwill be tighter which shouldn't be a problem with a ringterminal. Not as clean as the factory coils with the insulated flag terminals that sit below the plate.


One more time:06_Warrior's Gallery inventory clearly states Akitadog & Churchkey components!


Well ....here's a member that has recently done the mod with the same components so it must be possible: 06_warrior


Dyna coils- WOW!! http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/119782/969966.aspx#969966


AlanH said:
Tue, Nov 18 2008 5:07 PM


AlanH said:
Woody........not to muddy the waters .....


Mounting the Dynatek coil on the No. 1 Cyl of the V-BAK Coil Relocation Platelooks to bea challenge with the secondary wiring ?


Here's what No. 1looks like underneath with the V-BAKon my ride with the stock coil secondary wires facingrearward:
http://flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157602604625531/detail/Check Photos: DSCN2997-3001
Well ....here's a member that has recently done the mod with the same components so it must be possible: 06_warrior


Dyna coils- WOW!! http://rswarrior.com/forums/p/119782/969966.aspx#969966
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'll be checking Mark's VBAK style plate when I install my newcoils. If anyone has Mark's BAK style plate I could use a dimensional tracing, same with a Barons BAK style.I'll make a cardboard template for each with cut-outs for the coilsand I'll check 'em with the Dynatek coils when I do mine. Yes, odds are everything will be fine but not many guys have done a VBAK relo-plate with Dynatek coils. But more will in the future as coils wear out. So if I can save someone from headache in the future I'll be happy to pitch in at this opportune time.The driver is the coil plates could be upgraded in future production to fit.
 

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I found a way to use the Dyna coils on the PR BAK (not VBAK) plate made by
Akitadog. You need some spacers and also need to relocate one of the
sensors in order to properly fit those monsters. You do not need to
modify the current coil cuts on the plate, the spacers will take care
of that problem. It is a very tight fit but every part has clearance so
it will not get damaged because the bike vibration. I will post
pictures soon with my work in progress, so it will help anyone else who
is interested to upgrade their coils.
 

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I've got it. Just email me your email address and I'll shoot it to you. By the way, you can't scale the drawing. It's missing a few key dimensions, why, I don't know. I ended up rigging up something else but you're free to give it a shot.
 

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07midnite said:
I've got it. Just email me your email address and I'll shoot it to you. By the way, you can't scale the drawing. It's missing a few key dimensions, why, I don't know. I ended up rigging up something else but you're free to give it a shot.

I mean't PM your email to me.
 

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Mike, you should check with Woody also for dimensions. Technically, I see it impossible to fit the Dyna coils in the current plate location. IMO, due to the huge size those coils have it will definitelly touch the left air filter steel pipe. Make sure you do not order a plate yet, not until Woody confirms the clearance. If everything is OK, get the 0.125" thick plate, the regular one will bend in no time. Those coils are really heavy when installed. Even on .125 I might think is not enough... I'm out of batteries for my digital camera, I will post tomorrow the pics. Once you see them, you will understand why it will be a challange.

Alan has a great shot in his library of pictures:

 

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Bucky had some different setups for the dynas, I'll ask him if he has something for under tank or just for the side mount. If fabricated my own plate with a plasma but it was more or less a Redhorse plate that I chopped up smaller when I put the dynas back under the frame. I have access to a lazer cutter so if someone does come up with a bullet proof design and can get me a cutout with exact dimensions I can replicate them extremely cheap.
 

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Here you go Mike, the pictures. I will post a Howto when I complete the wires and all needed parts/modifications.

1) First, the temperature sensor must be positioned exactly like this:



There is a 0.050" lose space there, enough to clear the contact with the coils, if the sensor is pushed all the way to the top.
This is the only way the coils will not touch the sensor.

2) The plate coil cutouts and bolt holes will fit perfectly the Dyna coils, no need for mods there. Still, you will need 0.4" spacers and the plate need to be shaved a little with a rounded file in order to make room for the contact bolt to pass easy in there:
(Look at the space taken by the coils, IMO only the PR BAK will have enough room to have them installed into original location)



Check the nice clearance we have, to the bike frame:





3) The LCV needs to be relocated on the plate, 0.120" lower and the left coil ground element need to be shaved to clear the filter:



I'm concerned if there are any electrical issues, because one of the coil elements will shorter then originally designed.
Not to mention that it will be a pain to properly shave it. I will bring it to a machine shop, but even there, I'm afraid the vibrations might screw something into coil core. Can you let me know your thoughts on this issue? I don't want the ceramic cover to crack like shattered glass.

Thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Great! PM sent.


07midnite said:
07midnite said:
I've got it. Just email me your email address and I'll shoot it to you. By the way, you can't scale the drawing. It's missing a few key dimensions, why, I don't know. I ended up rigging up something else but you're free to give it a shot.
I mean't PM your email to me.

--
 

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Mike, as you can see for the pics... the Dyna coils are A LOT taller (double the height) and also bigger in diameter, compared to stock coils. Yet, they clear a little on the sides so we are safe... I added 2 more pictures with the clearance on the side, you could not see it well on previous shots.

imevh2 said:
I'm definitely curious if they can be shortened or not. Great work!
If they cannot be shaved, I'm screwed royally. There is no way to mount the coils on the plate otherwise. I PM'ed Alan to see if he knows more about it. If you guys have time, please call Dyna and ask them about the shaving issue for one of the elements. I work all day and I cannot call them myself. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes, this is exactly what I'm wanting to talk about. I'm wondering if its better to open up both coil mounting holes so the coils sit all the way into the holes, plus further open up the hole ends for the power wire to clear. Also I think its better to put the coils in from the top of the plate so they sit higher off the intake by the thichness of the mounting block.


So - that would mean thatin this 'stolen' VBAK relo-plate pic the coils would be mounted on top of the plate sticking down, providing more clearance above the stacks. But what will that do to the clearance between the tops of the coils andthe bottom of the fuel tank?


Also, the coil holes have to be opened up in width, and also a hint at the positive terminal to avoid a direct short in the event vibration sends the coil in that direction over time. Maybe just 1/8" more clearance at the terminal location do you think? Probably the fastener holes should remain as-is(instead of moving the coils outboard of the plate to make more sensor space)?





Once those things are done, it seems clear with the VBAK plate the other sensors will not fit, or at least some won't fit.


Yep Teck, that's what I'm wondering about you nailed it!





(this pic is the PR BAK plate fromTeck's post above which is why it looks a little different from the first pic in my post. Teck's side viewillustrates the same problem with a much better view).
 

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I sent Dynaonline an email, but I have a feeling they're going to highly recommend not cutting or grinding the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
For sure we don't want to alter the coil itself. We need to open up the holes in the plate, and maybe alter the coil fastener locations to spread the coils away from the LCV a bit - but I'm not sure yet. I hope to get some advice from a hands-on experienced guy shortly, with luck.


imevh2 said:
I sent Dynaonline an email, but I have a feeling they're going to highly recommend not cutting or grinding the coil.
 

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Mike, there is not enough room to move anything around, unfortunately.
For the PR BAK, the only solution is to shave the coil element:



If you move forward the coils, they will touch the frame. You need to move one coil at least 0.5" in order to clear the filter. Technically impossible because it will hit the bike frame in the front, then. As they are now, they fit perfectly, beside the little extra piece at the end that I marked above.
Anyone with electrical knowledge to validate if we can cut that part out? Thanks guys.

EDIT: If we cannot cut the extra part, it might be a way but it takes a major redesign of the plate. It will be ONLY possible with the PR BAK. You cannot use these coils with the VBAK and a plate because the height they have. Woody is the best person to confirm this.

I need to get in touch with Akitadog and work out the specs for a new plate. Thank God is winter and I have plenty of time to fiddle with.
It is workable (check the filter space):



Mike, can you take a screenshot with the plate removed to see how much we can push forward the coils before it touches the frame? Thanks. My bike is stored and I cannot have access to it...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Your plate is the PR BAK and mine is the VBAK so I keep having to translate from your tight quarters to my tight quarters. I see your point with the PR BAK plate it'll be tight.


I think the coils can be fitted to the VBAK plate and stillfit in the frame. I think the Velocity Stacks can be slightly rotated to clear the coils and coil wires. I question if the LCV will fitso I might have to move it to the left. I might have to move one sensor. I don't believe we want to cut anything on the coils bro.
 

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I agree, Mike. I really do not want to cut the coils. Plus, the ceramic coat could break easy from the vibration the cutting machine will generate. Looks like we both have to work on this project for many hours. Hopefully, someone will pay us a beer at next Warrior fest if they use our new design! I will stick with Akitadog because he has the knowledge to make a nice plate, plus he has an Warrior to try it one before he does the cuts. I have to send him all parts so he can measure everything properly. I will send him a mockup of what I came up with so far, in order to accomodate the monsters... I hope you find a solution for your VBAK also. Maybe you can get the actual plate from Richard (without inner cuts) and then you do yourself the mockup? Then, he will cut everything nice. His plate helped me a lot to visualize everything properly.
 

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Teck, got this back from Dynacoil this morning,





Hello Joel.
It is possible, but not really necessary, as the weight savings would be so
small.
If you really had or wanted to, it will require that the mounting bar closest
to the coil body be securely clamped together. This will prevent the laminated
strips of steel from separating while cutting. While it takes some time, a
hacksaw works well for cutting and will not generate the excessive heat of a
mechanical cutting device.
Thank you,
Larry Nelson
Technical Support
Dynatek
 
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