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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys...Came across the threads and info about the CPS issue and recall as well as the TPS issue and recall. I hope to get some more info here.
I am in South Africa and have a 2006 Warrior Midnight edition with 20,000 kilometres on the clock. I purchased her second hand about 3 months ago. Since coming across the recall thread for the CPS and also TPS on this forum I have been wondering if the recall was done on mine. I looked at the VIN stamp on my steering column and do not see any punch marks at all. Also I don't see the white dot on the rubber grommet where the wires for the CPS go into the crankcase cover. Bike seems to run fine but will sometimes idle erratically when hot and also backfires loudly between gear changes when not at 100% operating temperature. So these could be symptoms apparently of a CPS on the way out. I phoned Yamaha head office here in South Africa and they will check my vin number to see if recalls have been done. I should hear tomorrow. I will also hear if the recall work will be free or if I have to pay.

One other question...There is a long post about replacing the CPS including photo's of how to do it here on this forum and I get the impression that it is not a really big or difficult job and that one only has to remove the left hand side crankcase cover to get access to the CPS and that replacing it with the newer better designed CPI is quite a simple and straight forward job. I include the PDF file of that procedure titled "4 Recall CPS How To"

HOWEVER! I came across another PDF download on this forum called the "4 Recall CPS Letter and Tech Bulletin " and in it the replacement of the CPS involves a big difficult job where half the bike has to be stripped and oil drained just to replace the CPS. It seems it is a directive issued by Yamaha. I include that file in my post. Is that really what is involved? Does half the bike really have to be stripped for this job?
Thanks guys...looking forward to your feedback and helpful answers.
Regards
Fred
 

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In South Africa there may be a cost or an expiration date of free recall after which it costs. They will also tell you (1) if your Warrior was shipped from factory direct to SA, or (2) if your Warrior was originally sold in a different country. Welcome to these forums, I look forward to bike pics and also pics of where you ride!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Duece and Arizona...seems no recalls were done on my bike...Yamaha South Africa has sent my details to Yamaha Japan Head Office to find out if the recall is still a FREE recall after more then 10 years.
If it turns out that I have to pay what should I expect this CPS replacement is going to cost me?
 

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Its critical that the new CPS is installed without cutting the wires, that is why there is so much disassembly shown in the recall instruction sheet from Yamaha. The dealer hourly rate will govern cost. If you get the chance you need to ask the dealer to install according to disassembly instructions because some dealers over history were found to cut the wires to save costs even when Yamaha was paying them to do it right. Its touchy to ask but you can find a tactful way to let them know to NOT cut anything.

BTW the TPS recall did not affect factory 2006 and newer bikes. In some countries where the bikes came from different countries they were sold as current year bikes which is culturally legal in some countries. So a 2005 bike could be shipped in for example 2006 to some countries and be sold as 2006. It's good to look at the VIN at the bike's steering neck (and the sticker on the ECU assuming its original) to determine factory model year. It's rare that this happens because few countries do this. But it happens.
 

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A oil is covered in the recall fyi, the dealership that did mine told me it wasn't and charged me. I had to contact Yamaha directly and have them speak to the dealership to get a refund.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Its critical that the new CPS is installed without cutting the wires, that is why there is so much disassembly shown in the recall instruction sheet from Yamaha. The dealer hourly rate will govern cost. If you get the chance you need to ask the dealer to install according to disassembly instructions because some dealers over history were found to cut the wires to save costs even when Yamaha was paying them to do it right. Its touchy to ask but you can find a tactful way to let them know to NOT cut anything.

BTW the TPS recall did not affect factory 2006 and newer bikes. In some countries where the bikes came from different countries they were sold as current year bikes which is culturally legal in some countries. So a 2005 bike could be shipped in for example 2006 to some countries and be sold as 2006. It's good to look at the VIN at the bike's steering neck (and the sticker on the ECU assuming its original) to determine factory model year. It's rare that this happens because few countries do this. But it happens.

Arizona thanks for that info...here is the VIN data of my bike that Yamaha Head Office in South Africa sent me today. Looks like mine is a 2005 sold as a 2006 model like you mention. Mine was built in September 2005 according to the VIN data. Looks like she was meant to go to the USA...or maybe she did and someone in South Africa imported the bike into South Africa from the USA I don't know. Does that mean that mine needs the TPS recall? What are the symptoms of the TPS not being right?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
A oil is covered in the recall fyi, the dealership that did mine told me it wasn't and charged me. I had to contact Yamaha directly and have them speak to the dealership to get a refund.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Good to know Tom...I just hope the recall is still valid after so many years
 

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You have a 2006 USA build. The telltale are the Radial Front Forks & Calipers.
The TPS is not required for 2006 & up!

Replacement of the CPS device does not require the extensive (labor intensive) procedure as detailed in the Yamaha National Recall literature.
The existing 2-wire Hitachi connector can be removed @ the battery tray and a wire snake can be taped to the CPS harness and withdrawn carefully else there is no harm at all in rerouting the 2-wire harness as has been done by the majority :>)
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
You have a 2006 USA build. The telltale are the Radial Front Forks & Calipers.
The TPS is not required for 2006 & up!

Replacement of the CPS device does not require the extensive (labor intensive) procedure as detailed in the Yamaha National Recall literature.
The existing 2-wire Hitachi connector can be removed @ the battery tray and a wire snake can be taped to the CPS harness and withdrawn carefully else there is no harm at all in rerouting the 2-wire harness as has been done by the majority :>)

Hi Allan would you be as kind as to give me more details and point me to the relevant link/s of these procedures please. Is it something I can do myself? What do I need to do this?
I searched for and found your instructions on how to install the new Pick Up Kit Part No. 90891-30047-00 and saw your photo instructions on Flickr of using a "SNAKE" to pull the wiring up to under the seat. But I cannot get a clear idea as to exactly what and how I need to do this from your photo's. Is it possible to give me clearer more detailed instructions please? It would be much appreciated.
Yamaha South Africa has sent my details and situation to Yamaha Japan and is waiting for them to either give the go ahead or refusal to pay for the recall fix. Do you think it's likely that they will give the go ahead?

Thanks very much
Fred
 

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Does half the bike really have to be stripped for this job?
No. You don’t even need to drain the oil. Gently place down the motorcycle on the right side, for example on tires. Remove the clutch cover. Under the saddle, disconnect the crankshaft sensor connector. Move out the terminals from the connector. Find a thin but durable wire a couple of meters long. Using good electrical tape, fasten the contacts of the old crankshaft sensor to it. Then spray thoroughly with silicone and gently drag from the bottom so that the attached wire goes in the way in which the wiring was laid from the factory.



When the wire and the visible electrical tape appear from below, disconnect and carry the clutch cover to the side, for convenient work with it.



After you install a new crankshaft sensor, disassemble its connector and screw it's wires onto the previously worked wire again with electrical tape. Lubricate again with silicone and now gently drag up from above the saddle. When you will pull out the wiring, you can assemble the connector and you're done.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Thanks Freeeze that sounds like a relatively simple operation. But according to other posts about this the harness wiring is zip tied at 2 points and so I cant understand how you can then just pull the wires through with a "Snake" This is what is said about the zip ties on this forum in other posts...
QUOTE" The CPS wires are zip tied in two places along the middle frame and is a pita to get to and undo, but with patience it can be done. It just takes time. That was the toughest part of the job. Followed closely by breaking the harness wire keeper screws loose." UNQUOTE Posted by Darkstar

And what about using heat resistant silicone on the area where the 2 rubber grommets install? Is that nessecary?
Is the connector easy to disassemble from the wiring and easy to assemble again after the wiring has been pulled through?

Is the Pick Up Coil on the attached image (see below) the correct new design pick up coil? I have seen pictures of another type where the wires are encapsulated in silicone but the one on the image below does not seem to have any silicone on it at all yet it is advertised as the new design pick up coil.
 

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Need to see the opposite side of the cps, where the wires are, to know if it's an updated coil.

As for the replacement labor, you need to be gentle with the wiring harness so if inexperienced then just disassemble. Then unplug and attach snake so its pushed/pulled thru when you remove the old. Then snake the new and plug it in. Re-fasten to frame if/as needed. Then swap the business end, then gently adjust wiring along the frame to take up slack, then reassemble. In prior years dealer techs could do it quicker because they did so many. These days fewer have done it so it will take them longer too. You can do it yourself. The instructions are posted here and the e-manual is linked here.

Running the wire inside the upper loom portion will better protect it over future years. If you have experience pulling wires gently thru existing installed loom then it does save time. But the zip ties were tight on the frame.

Fact is it's been so long I do not recall if mine is partly inside loom then runs just wire down the frame (with 2 zip ties) but I think it does. I do not know if 2006 models have some difference. I believe the 2004 wiring loom change still did not provide a loom/cover down the frame for the CPS wire, I think it's still tight zip ties.
 

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The build date and the 10th character in the VIN confirm 2006 model year. So over the last 13 years nobody swapped-in newer forks and etc. Its all original. Nice.

If there is still a white sticker under the rider seat on the frame bracket by the seat latch, post a pic of it. We can determine if the bike was built for SA or USA. Probably model is XV17PCV and possibly 5PXJ is code.

Ref: https://www.rswarrior.com/forums/13-technical-discussion/147350-service-manuals-model-year.html


Arizona thanks for that info...here is the VIN data of my bike that Yamaha Head Office in South Africa sent me today. Looks like mine is a 2005 sold as a 2006 model like you mention. Mine was built in September 2005 according to the VIN data. Looks like she was meant to go to the USA...or maybe she did and someone in South Africa imported the bike into South Africa from the USA I don't know. Does that mean that mine needs the TPS recall? What are the symptoms of the TPS not being right?
 

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But according to other posts about this the harness wiring is zip tied at 2 points and so I cant understand how you can then just pull the wires through with a "Snake" This is what is said about the zip ties on this forum in other posts...
That's exactly it. Grease with silicone and pull gently. And everything will go through the factory ties.
 

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Did this operation twice, on two bikes. First time was exrimely harder. But did not used the silicone grease, used WD40 and made wrong connection with pulling wire/rope. Had to cut lower zip tie. On second bike was surprised how work was lighter finished. Maybe zip ties different :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Did this operation twice, on two bikes. First time was exrimely harder. But did not used the silicone grease, used WD40 and made wrong connection with pulling wire/rope. Had to cut lower zip tie. On second bike was surprised how work was lighter finished. Maybe zip ties different :rolleyes:

Do you have to disassemble the connector from the new harness before snaking it up towards the connector under the saddle? Then re assemble the connector to the new harness once it has been snaked through? Is it simple to disassemble that connector?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The build date and the 10th character in the VIN confirm 2006 model year. So over the last 13 years nobody swapped-in newer forks and etc. Its all original. Nice.

If there is still a white sticker under the rider seat on the frame bracket by the seat latch, post a pic of it. We can determine if the bike was built for SA or USA. Probably model is XV17PCV and possibly 5PXJ is code.

Ref: https://www.rswarrior.com/forums/13-technical-discussion/147350-service-manuals-model-year.html

Arizona here's a pic I just took of whats under my saddle. What if anything does that sticker tell you?
And what do you mean by newer forks? Mine has upside down Yamaha R1 forks...isn't that what all our Warriors have? What newer forks were swapped in and why? And what more other stuff was swapped in and why?
 

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Do you have to disassemble the connector from the new harness before snaking it up towards the connector under the saddle? Then re assemble the connector to the new harness once it has been snaked through? Is it simple to disassemble that connector?
Yes, you need to disassemble the connector from the new harness. For this action you need some needle kind tool, small screwdriver or like that. It's easy. On my first photo under the electrical/glue tape cps's wire WITH metall therminals. Just don't place it parallel because it make overall diameter thicker. Make this connection one next another of therminals.
 
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