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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2007. 23k miles. Been in storage for 5 years.
Started perfectly 2 days ago when I pulled it out of storage (with new battery). Fuel light was on. Rode approx 2 miles, no issues. Washed bike. Started again to warm up for oil change. Began oil and gear lube change. Bike started during oil change procedure. Noticed wiring bundle was on top of ECU so I moved wiring back under ECU. After fluid change was complete, bike would crank but not start.

Don't hear the fuel pump prime.

Battery is at 12.8 V

Red/Blue wire supplying FP is 7.6V for approx 3 seconds

Green wire (from tach?) Has 12 V constant

Resistance at FP is 2.7 (per service manual, it should be good)

Sidestand switch has continuity

On board diagnosis
D1-01 : 17
03 : 0
04 :0
08 : 0.6
09 : 7.5
20 : on (KS was down)
21 : on (was in neutral)
30 : light flashed 8 times (service manual called for 5)
31 : same as above
36 : flash 8 times (SM calls for 5) No clicking
37 : same as above
50 : same as above
52 : same as above
54 : heard sound
55 : NO SOUND, odometer displayed 24
60 : 00
61: 38
62 : 2 (reset to 0 with start/stop switch)
70 : 0

What did I break?
 

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The good old green death.
Take your time cleaning the contacts and it should resolve itself.
Did you have mice in the bike at some point?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Mice are possible but doubtful. Bike was in a daily used, clean garage.....just not mine.

Unfortunately I have gone backwards. Scraped off the corrosion and now it won't even crank. Still no priming from the FP. Relay is clicking though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Checked fuel pump with lead wires direct from battery. Pump does turn on.

All contact points in the relay and harness are clean and intact.

I'm stumped on the voltage going from 12 at the relay to 7.5 at the pump.

Since it's not cranking anymore either I checked the wiring at the FP relay. The solid blue line (goes from FP relay to starter relay) starts at 65 mV and drops to 59 mV when I press the start button.
 

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You've been busy!

It seems from your posts that the trouble appeared right after this. Is that right?
"Noticed wiring bundle was on top of ECU so I moved wiring back under ECU. After fluid change was complete, bike would crank but not start."

The corroded plug is an indicator of water intrusion. The battery box has two drain holes. One on the battery side and one on the relay-well side. Pull the battery out, lift the relay-rack out, inspect, and unplug the drain holes (and rubber hose). Then unplug each relay and inspect.

Next, open the headlight bucket and take a couple pictures. Then unplug-inspect-clean-replug every coupling. Go slow. Its tight in there. Use the picture to organize the couplings so it all fits back in.

Next, gently remove the chassis ground (near the oil filler tube) and clean, touch a drop of motor oil onto the thread, then reconnect and torque lightly torque.

Look around here for member alanh, get the annotated color wiring diagram. It will answer your other questions.

Helpful stuff for others who may follow:

Access to Relay Rack:

Drains:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
AW....you are correct, the issues arose after I moved the wiring bundle back under the ECU/after fluid change was complete.

I will check the drain holes and inspect the rest of the connectors.

Yes, i have been busy. Most of the day was spent inspecting wires, testing connections and reading the service manual (**** that can be confusing!) I spent at least 4 hours yesterday just reading posts about what my possible issue could be. Many by or included AlanH.

Am I correct in thinking that 7.5V going into the FP is to low? If so, what could be causing that drain between the relay and the pump?

The common denominator between the FP and the no crank is the FP relay. Red/Blue going to the FP and the Blue going to the starter relay.
 

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Yes 7.5 is too low. Its a 12v circuit (likes up to about 13.4v). Reduced voltage can be due to corrosion (which you have) or failing battery (including new battery in a bike having COD), or it could be because there is some form of parasitic drain).

Or none of that but something else. Let's proceed along the path and see where it takes us before jumping across the track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Latest update.

Drains are clean in battery box.
Checked all connections in relay rack. All seem to be good.
Removed fuel tank and found this. Inspected everything and all seems to be intact. Guess mice were more likely than I thought...silly me.

Hood Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive lighting


Cleaned Fuel Injection Relay (been calling it Fuel Pump relay, my bad) again. Engine DOES now crank. Fuel pump still does not prime.

Disconnected fuel supply line behind "air vent". No pressure when disconnected. Checked that just to be sure the pump wasn't priming bc there was pressure.

Went back to FI Relay with multimeter.

Have 12v on Br/B wire
Have 7v on R/L wire (as AZ stated, that's to low)

Referred to second link provided for relay/diode test. Did NOT pass relay test. Relay clicks for 1st part of test (good). NO continuity for 2nd part of relay test (bad).

Font Parallel Paper Design Paper product


Did diode test.
No continuity during 1st part of test (good).
No continuity during 2nd part of test (bad).

I'm not a rocket scientist but, I think the FI Relay is bad.

Agree/disagree?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
She's alive! Had a mild panic attack first though...

Plugged in the new relay...no prime. WTF!

Look over wiring. Fuel pump harness wasn't connected....idiot 🤦‍♂️

Plug in fuel pump harness....no prime..WTF
Begin mild panic attack.

Check all electrical wires at the FI Relay.
Brn/Bl....12.4v
R/L (fuel pump)....7.5v....huh, thats the same as before
Light Blue (neutral switch) 11.7v
L/Y (main switch) 11.7v
Light green (N switch) 11.7v

WTF!

Recheck that bike is actually in N. It's is. Random thought.....lightly press down shifter and slowly rotate rear wheel. Bike slips into 1st. Hold down cluth and turn key....PRIMING! Starts right up. Let it run for a few. Shut down bike. Put bike back into N. Turn key. Priming! Starts right up.

Just to make sure I didn't trip some safety feature that required the bike be started a certain way, I put old FI Relay back in. No prime. Did the 1st gear/clutch procedure. Still no start. Ok cool, relay was indeed bad. Put new relay back in and started right up in N.

For some reason the pump didn't prime until I put the bike in gear and held in the clutch. Now it starts as normal...in gear or N. Anyone heard of that?

Can I put electrical grease on prongs for relay to prevent the corrosion?
 

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Don't mess with success!!!
It's not broken anymore Don't fix it!!!
Awesome.

If it happens again, check the wires connecting at the start-logic items (clutch lever, neutral, kickstand) for issues.
 

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Don't mess with success!!!
It's not broken anymore Don't fix it!!!
Awesome.

If it happens again, check the wires connecting at the start-logic items (clutch lever, neutral, kickstand) for issues.
If it ain’t broke, then I need a bigger wrench
 
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