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Discussion Starter #1
I think we need a sticky for this topic it seems this topic is popping up on a daily basis and causing a lot of grief for some people who have numerous failures.
We should try and "stay on topic" and post pics of the install and the symptoms of a bad sensor so we know if and when our Warriors might have a bad sensor.
The obvious problem is the engine just dies and you get a code 12 on you gauges.
The other problems seem to be that the engine just starts running erratic at certain rpm's.
Feel free to post up your bikes specific problems/ how it was acting when your sensor went bad.
I will post upsome pics that redhorse posted up for us several months back as well as some pics from jamesd's 3rd cps failure and fix to get the ball rolling.
Post your pics if you have some so everyone can benefit .
It seems that some sensors are experiencing broken wires at the end of the sensor where the wires connect and the thought seems to be that when installing the sensor there should be a little slack left at the end of the sensor wires to keep them from pulling on the solder joints and breaking from excessive tension or vibration. Or it's just a faulty design. Jamesd actually had the bracket break off on the tabs that hold the sensor to the case, that's a new one. I would suggest applying High temp silicone to keep the wires from vibrating and breaking. You might be able to use epoxy but no one has tried it yet. Spray it with brake cleaner or clean it up with some sort of solvent to make sure their is no oil residue on the plastic first so the silicone has a good clean surface to stick to . Clean the oil residue off your threads of your screws and the threads where they screw in and use loctite. Remember loctite wont work if you have oil all over your threads. This is my solution to the broken wire problem. Maybe you want to do this as a preventative type thing before you get stuck on the side of the road. just order a new gasket first. I dont work for Yamaha so do this at your own risk. Any other thoughts on this problem feel free to post up.
The part#'s for all years from 2002 to 2006 is 5px-81670-00-00 pick up assy.
The gasket # is 5px-15451-00-00.

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60.68KB broken tabs on jamesd's bike this is a new one

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83.16 KB CPS SENSOR

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66.89 KB Sensor with silicone

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63.01 KB Apply silicone

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93.99 KB Sensor installed with wire holders
 

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I had a CPS fail last year at 4,800 miles. I was in the outside lane overtaking when the engine totally died. It was a wire pulled out that caused the problem. When the wrench fitted the new sensor he epoxied the wires to give a bit of strain relief. I haven't done a lot of miles since but holding up fine so far.
 

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I have had two die and they both went all at once. The "Mechanic" said there were no external wire breaks but when he ohm'd it out it showed an open circuit.
 

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The dealership (under warranty) called it the cam sensor....I'm guessing its the same. It would not run between 2500 and 3500 rpm. It happened at about 4000 miles. What was really strange was that it would not be as bad before the motor warmed up.
 

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Just got mine out of the shop 2 days ago for this exact issue. The bike was hesitating/missing badly btwn 2800-3000 rpms. And it only seemed to happen once the bike was warm. Once it was determined I had a bad CPS, the tech said one of the wires was barely hanging on and he was very surprised the bike even ran. My repair was covered under the 1 yr factory wty. Does anybody have any info on what this repair might cost for non-warranted bike owners? My bike had barely 2000 miles when this happened. The dealer also mentioned that the broken wire situation may be compounded by the additional vibration our aftermkt performance mods create. An interesting theory, but my CPS went out while the bike was still stock. Thx xharleyrdr for the post. This info needs to be circulated. I wish I had this info available to me before I dropped my bike off at the dealer. They had my bike for a whole month before they figured out what was wrong with it, and had it fixed. I missed the entire last month of ideal riding weather here in the desert. It's now triple digit weather for me for the next 4 months. Great timing.
 

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I just finished the install of my CPS and so far so good. Thanks to redhorse for the post and help. My dealer couldn't figure it out but this site has saved my butt a few times, especially with this one. I took pictures as I went and I'll try to get those up soon. There should be enough help here to walk you through the process if you are no longer under warranty.
 

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Mine when out last summer with a little over 4,000 miles on it while on a trip in Colorado. The bike would not go over 64 miles an hour without missing badly. Fixed under warranty. They did not have the part in stock so they repaired the break. Its been fine since, I now have 8,000 miles on the bike.
 

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i ordered the sensor today and gonna bring my bike to the dealer on saturday. i'll post experiences and see, wether i can get some pix
 

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OK …this may be a dumb question (coming from a Mech Eng.) but here goes…..

Is there any way we could bypass the CPS switch during a code 12 failure.

I may be wrong but, based on the diagrams I've seen posted it looks like the CPS reads a magnetic pulse from the radial tabs on the crank shaft (kinda like an optical encoder wheel).

Again I'm not an Elec. Eng. but.......... Man….there's got to be a way to by pass it.
(BTW.......... this is where I would walk away from the EE and he would come back in an hour “Schematics in Hand” with a work-around)

I'm thinking this could be a temp. fix…… just enough to get you home and replace the switch/gasket.
 

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I expect that the CPS is an Inductive Proximity Switch. As already stated a variable input to the ECU is required to fire the engine. The CPS device is an integral critical component required for the engine logic....Hence the alarm code on the tach (MMI/HMI-Man-Human Machine Interface to let us know that there's a problem)I suspect that your 'EE' would RETIRE on this challenge [/emoticons/emotion-2.gif]Some devices cannot be by-passed because of the sophistication of the electronic hardware. A good work around would be to have a duplicate sensor & target already installed in a modified engine case.
quote:Originally posted by mongo_11

OK …this may be a dumb question (coming from a Mech Eng.) but here goes…..
Is there any way we could bypass the CPS switch during a code 12 failure.
I may be wrong but, based on the diagrams I've seen posted it looks like the CPS reads a magnetic pulse from the radial tabs on the crank shaft (kinda like an optical encoder wheel).
Again I'm not an Elec. Eng. but.......... Man….there's got to be a way to by pass it.
(BTW.......... this is where I would walk away from the EE and he would come back in an hour “Schematics in Hand” with a work-around)
I'm thinking this could be a temp. fix…… just enough to get you home and replace the switch/gasket.
 

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Yea..... I read a little more into it last night and noticed the CP switch is linked to the ignition timming.

They say there are "No Dumb Questions's"

Well I guess this was the exception[/emoticons/emotion-6.gif]

Thanks for the reply...
 

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I started another link for "How many" but it hasn't attracted much attention. Maybe I should have paid more attention and just listed here.
Year:'05
Build Date:06/04
Mileage:2813
Date it died:7/18/05
Going down hwy at 75mph/ completely shut down/ code 12. Broken wires at sensor head. Now have 4500 miles (and a spare CPS).
 

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I have a 05 Warrior and at 12000 miles my CPS went out. I bought a new Pick up Assy and 1000 miles later that one goes out with a broken wire. (Yes there was plenty of slack)These wires need to be supported in the middle so there isn't stress on the connectors.

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Mine broke on 27 May 2006
Wire broke where it exits the clutch cover. Area marked #1 in posted diagram.
Year 2003
Milage 11,700
No unusual symptons leading to failure. I was on a rather bumpy road though.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
originally Posted by blackstar - 05/30/2006 : 11:14:39 PM
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Iv'e seen a few post describing the CPS sensor type. Here's what I know from working with these.

The CPS is a Variable Reluctance Sensor or VRS, also known as a magnetic pickup. The same type of sensor used on the Jet Engine Controls I work on (Fan speed and core speed). Thankfully they are much more reliable. Even then, there are redundant sensors on the engine. The CPS requires no external electrical excitation like a proximity sensor would or a hall effect sensor used on the cam sensor. The CPS generates the pulse by the lines of magnetic flux (magnetic field) acting on a wound coil. The magnetic flux is generated by an internal permanent magnet embeded in the CPS. The Change in flux is caused by the trigger wheel. When a tooth is present, the flux is concentrated. No tooth, the magnetic field colapses. These sensors are speed sensitive. The faster the trigger wheel turns the more pulse amplitude there is. Other factors are Gap, DC resistance, inductance of the coil, number of turns on the coil, and magnet strength. These factors can all be effected by unique mechanical failure modes (cracked magnets, cracked pole pieces, shorted or broken windings, etc...)
It appears that the most common failure mode are broken wires. The strain releif on this thing sucks!! It appears it does not prevent a pulling force from being transferred directly to the terminal (No $hit). I like the epoxy / JB Weld solution. If Yamaha were doing proper failure analysis, this wouldn't be that hard for them to resolve.

Sorry to be such a bore, but the key to fixing a problem is understanding it.
*This was posted up by blackstar*
 
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