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Awesome. Thanks alanh don't know if that's the problem but at least I'll have it. Any good leads on tps?
 

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No such luck with a replacement TPS, gotta buy it as a normal spare.
Compare this place too: Buy Yamaha Parts, Yamaha Accessories at Yamaha Sports Plaza

Here's the part numbers by Model Year from Tomba's Popular Mods thread:
Throttle Position Sensor: 2002-2005: 3P6-85885-00-00 (replaces 5PX-85885-00-00)
Throttle Position Sensor: 2006-2007: 3P6-85885-00-00 (replaces 5PX-85885-01-00 which was the recall part number)
Throttle Position Sensor: 2008-2009: 8GL-85885-00-00 (these years have a different throttle body part number)
 

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alanH and the CPS

A big thanks to alanH as I have just ordered the CPS kit from Amazon at $ 16.39. Couldn't ask for a better price. The greatest forum for the Warrior, you just can't be beat! :)
 

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Is this the code 12? I do t haw the book for my bike im in process now of replacing mine in case that's it. Already replaced my TPS and think I got it zeroed. This is last resort on mine before I trailer it to the dealer to look at.


Not sure under what DI it should say. Not sure what is all what on mi screen
 

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dI:09 - displays the Battery Voltage when in the diagnostic mode which is 12v ... this is normal.

A failed CPS will commonly indicate a Code 12 on the Tach w/o your intervention
 

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So I am working on replacing my CPS, but for the life of me I cannot figure out how I am going to get that wire routed up through the frame and into the under seat area where it plugs in. Any tips on that part? I have the case off of the engine, oil drained and all that but I am stuck on the routing. I haven't pulled the old sensor out yet because I was thinking that maybe I could tie the old one to the new one and be able to pull the new one up as the old gets yanked. Make sense?

Is there an easier way to get it routed? I also see that it is zip tied to the frame and I am not sure how to get to that zip tie either or replaced it at that. I feel like I am missing something. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thank you,
Pnedac
 

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You could remove the lower fuel tank to get the access you need.
I did not.

I cut and abandoned the original wire. Then, fished the new wire up through the frame with a coat hanger. Remove the horn, and LAS for better access at the bottom.
 

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You could remove the lower fuel tank to get the access you need.
I did not.

I cut and abandoned the original wire. Then, fished the new wire up through the frame with a coat hanger. Remove the horn, and LAS for better access at the bottom.
So I am working on replacing my CPS, but for the life of me I cannot figure out how I am going to get that wire routed up through the frame and into the under seat area where it plugs in. Any tips on that part? I have the case off of the engine, oil drained and all that but I am stuck on the routing. I haven't pulled the old sensor out yet because I was thinking that maybe I could tie the old one to the new one and be able to pull the new one up as the old gets yanked. Make sense?

Is there an easier way to get it routed? I also see that it is zip tied to the frame and I am not sure how to get to that zip tie either or replaced it at that. I feel like I am missing something. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thank you,
Pnedac
You can do as Ken suggested or you can extract the 2-wires from the new CPS connector.
You'll want to identify and mark the connector for the proper colors. Black and Gray.
The enclosed photo is the failed CPS back in Aug '06' showing the crimped connector removed from the plug.

Cut the old CPS wires at the engine/clutch cover. Properly Tape the new CPS crimped connections to the cut ends and use the old CPS wire connector above the battery as a Snake to pull the wires in place. Reconnect the new 2-Pin connector with the proper polarity.
I used double hung window sash cord when i last did my 2nd CPS in '07' as shown in the last photo.



Snake used to re-pull CPS harness under seat



__________________________________

This link might be of interest: http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/2397713-post13.html
 

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Good looking out! I will give it a whirl and report back with the results. I figured it had to be done in something close to this way, but I appreciate the confirmation.

Thank you,

Pnedac
 

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I ended up using a piece of speaker wire to get the new wires routed up. Thank you for the advise on that. So here is another question:

Where did the clutch go? It was perfect before and now that I put it back together the clutch handle is flopping like it is not even connected or something. The center piece under the cover (the little thing coming out of the center of the plates with teeth on just one part and the rest is round), I made sure it was facing right to grab the clutch shaft. Am I messing something up here? I also noticed that that center piece with the cover off is kind of floppy like it is easy to move in any direction. Is that normal? I hope I didn't screw this thing up. I haven't put any oil back in just in case I need to undo this again.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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So I found this picture of the cover off and I happen to have that same exact purple Barnett clutch so that works out great. The piece that I am talking about being "loose" is the piece in the center of the clutch. In this picture it looks to be sticking out firmly and the gear portion of it is pointed to the right (so as to grabe the shaft when you put the cover back on), but mine seems a little flooppy like you can move it up and down or right to left witrh ease.

Note: This bike was running and functioning perfectly. I am only changing this sensor because the check engine light came on and it is throwing that pesky 12. I simply drained the oil, took off the cover and put it back on without messing with anything. As soon as the cover was back on the clutch handle feels as if there is no tension at all. It goes to the handlebar with ease. That is what has me confused.

Any help is appreciated.
 

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Thank you LeaderDuece. I find that when the cover is put back on I feel that it is engaging the actuator shaft as I feel that it then only moves clockwise or counter clockwise about 2-3 mm. Just a little tiny movement. I will take the cover back off and make SURE that we are good to go though. If this little floppy piece was not engaging properly, would the actuator shaft spin freely? Either way the coiver is coming back off. Kind of a pain, but we gotta do what we gotta do.

Thank you!
 

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Most likely... You just need to re-clock the lever. When re-installing the cover it's possible to re-align the lever exactly but... For me that never happens.

Turn the lever counter clockwise as far as it will go by hand. The distance from the cable guide to the clip on the end of the lever should be 1 1/4". If it's not, remove the lever and re-clock it so that it is.
Report back...

BTW Just noticed you're in SAC, I'm about sixty miles to the southeast...
 

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Thank you Bladerunr. I actually just moved to Elk Grove, but close enough. I was just going through Valley Springs recently on my way to New Hogan Lake. Pretty nice area. I will check the lever for sure. Appreciate the tip on that lever. I will check that first.
 

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Got it! I needed to loosen the cable stay in order to get it feeling right. Thank you all for the assistance. As always it is appreciated. Onward!
 
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